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Covering options


GrumpyGnome
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Hi Chris, and welcome.

Laminating film can be used in a similar way to solarfilm type coverings (Soalrfilm have ceased trading, but oracover and the excellent hobbyking films are all largely similar). It is applied with heat, and shrunk with, er, heat. There are lots of articles and youtube videos showing detail on covering.

Laminating film is a little different from the dedicated modelling films with regards to the temperatures needed, but if you haven't used either, you will need a bit of trial and error anyway. You will need a modelling iron.

You won't need any additional adhesives for the edges, etc.

Ron Grey is probably the best resource regarding laminating film; I am sure he will chip in.

Graham

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  • 2 weeks later...

Being impatient, and needing to leave ebay feedback, I decided to try the laminating film on the P-47 rudder, a mix of sheet balsa, solid balsa, and litelply.

 

Fired up the iron, battled with the sellotape holding the roll of film closed..... off I went.

 

Total anti-climax.  Using iron at 147 degrees, covers like a dream! Seems to go on at least as easily as film (Solarfilm/Oracover/HK) and shrinks drum tight using just the iron. I'll post a pic tomorrow, and then add some paint to see how that goes.  Before strip it off ready for final finishing of the rudder and 'rea' covering.  

 

So far, so good for 75 micron film.  Only caveat is there are no significant compound curves to deal with.  But, as I don't plan on covering the fuselage and fin in laminate, I feel quite comfortable.

 

GG

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I've never seen or used laminating film.  How resistant is it to tearing?  I had an ARTF glider which had the wings covered in some sort of shrunk on transparent sleeving.  Looked fine but a small nick rapidly turned into a mostly detached loose cover - luckily it was on the way to the car and not on the way to a significant encounter with the ground!

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Just did some quick calcs......

The roll I have bought cost £15 incl delivery.  It is 100 metres long and just over 30cm wide. I reckon on using about 5 metres of the 100 metres to cover all the open structure elements..... under £1 for the model!  I will have to add the cost of glass/epoxy/wbpu and paint but provided it goes as well as the test, and works in real life, seems a bargain.

GG

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I’ve got a roll of 30 micron laminating film. I’ve used it to cover a Panic, 2.4 kilos, with a 2.4 horse motor up front, hooligan mode. It flies off a crushed and rolled stone to dust runway, which is abrasive and sharp. The film is a tough as old boots.

One thing to note. It comes in all finishes from shiny to matt, but be aware that most of the ones described as semi matt, look to me semi shiny.

The matt types take paint better, all benefit with a rub over with a degreaser like meths for adhesion of paint. Never tried to stick tissue to it, but I would consider a test to see if degreasing improves adhesion.

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During the first lockdown last year I recovered an old model that had been languishing in the loft for a few years using tissue over Doculam. When we were able to fly again, on one flight I forgot to extend the aerial on the 35 meg transmitter (got too used to using 2.4 radio), and the model took off and did a neat half roll into the ground when it flew out of range at the end of the strip.

Rather than the shredded remains I was expecting, the model was completely intact, which makes me think that this combination is as least as strong as normal film covering.  Whether it would have survived without the tissue I don't know, it's not an experiment I really want to try again ?

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All of the tests I have done on lam film (didn’t include the tear test!) have shown that it is far stronger than standard covering film, and I’m talking about the 38 micron lam film not the thicker options. I’ve dropped large bolts onto it to compare it to the likes of Solarfim and HK film and it is far more resistant. Another good test was forming holes in open areas for things such as pushrods and for this I used a length of piano wire heated with a blow torch, nice neat hole in lam film that stayed that way when a cold wire was pushed through, other films were a big problem, difficult to form a neat hole and had a tendency to rip when the cold wire was inserted and moved about (actually that could be the tear test!). Also dropped small screwdriver onto the surface, straight through the normal film, bounced off the lam film or just dented it (this latter test was not from a great height !).

 

And I’ve also done the crash test too! My LA-7 was caught on a landing approach by a ‘rotor’ wind which flipped the model over at about 3ft off the ground. The damage was the nose being ripped off and the wing getting ripped away from the fuselage. Apart from localised damage to the wing mounting and a wing tip there was no other damage and the nose was stuck back with some internal reinforcement.

Edited by Ron Gray
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You wont be disappointed in the toughness of the laminating film . I did a test piece of 75 micron matt and dropped a ball point pen ( blunt end) onto it from about a meter and it just bounced off . Doing the same with normal covering resulted in the pen going through. Also any overlaps seem to almost weld together so no peeling . 

 

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