RAF's Finest Biplane? Hawker Fury MkI

[Danny Fenton]

20 percent off the sale price!

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/07/2017 15:53:38

[Martyn K]

oooh that is a good price..

Martyn

[Martyn K]

... and ordered..

[McG 6969]

... well then, that makes the three of us ordering in one afternoon.

But now I need to try to find some litho-plate around here... and I really don't have some ol' fashion printers in the area.

Anyhow thank you both, Danny & Martyn, in advance for giving us all this opportunity.

Cheers

Chris

[Gordon Whitehead 1]

Many thanks for the kind comments guys, but I'm just a sport scale modeller but may have some experiences that others can build on.

On making metal plates for instance, these became easier to produce once I'd discovered "aviation snips", a sort of lever-action tin snip so called because they were invented when metal covering became common on full size aircraft. Far better than ordinary tin snips, they are available in straight cut, and left and right-hand curve cut versions. The ones of use to us are the straight cut ones with yellow handles. The others have red or green handles.

Even Aldi had some straight cut ones on offer a few weeks ago and at the giveaway price I just couldn't resist buying a pair to keep for spare.

In the past I used ordinary tin snips which were awful to cut with except on the thinnest brass or aluminium sheet, and I've also used my old Dremel table saw which was always a noisy and messy experience.

Besides brass sheet, aviation snips will cut 0.9mm stainless sheet which I've bought from Ebay and used for making the stainless strut and wire retaining lugs on my last two bipes. Whether brass, steel or aluminium, the items produced will always be somewhat deformed, but are easily flattened with a few taps from a small hammer on the tail of a bench vice, and can then be filed to the required outline and bent properly to shape as required.

Drilling stainless can be a problem, but a drop of proper drilling and tapping fluid which comes in a spray can with a spout like the one that comes with WD40 makes the drill cut better and last longer.

For the sort of wire bending necessary on the Fury's u/c legs and cabane struts, I always start in the middle and work towards the ends. That way, even if the measurements are a bit out, at least the result should be symmetrical and usable. Mind you, the 8swg piano wire on Dennis' Fury's u/c will demand quite a bit of welly with a hammer and bench vice if you don't have a wire bender! A proper wire bender makes light work of the task, and I still use one which I bought back in the 1970s, made by MFA who once marketed r/c plane kits and were among the first into helicopters and electric flight, but now only sell Como drills.. This advert shows a device almost identical to the MFA one I have, and though it's not cheap, should last as long as mine has done. http://www.ncsl.co.uk/wirebender/ The ad links to a how-to video. One tip I have is to replace the wing nut with a proper nut, and use a spanner to tighten as finger pressure on the wing nut isn't sufficient to stop 8swg wire from pulling through.

Danny's done a great job sorting out the plan and parts for all. Unfortunately Traplet don't appear to have a photo CD of the Fury. Luckily, Flying Scale Models has a lovely CD of pics shot by Tony Dowdeswell showing the replica Fury in glorious colour and intimate detail : http://adhpublishing.com/shop/store/products/hawker-fury-detail-photo-collection-2/ This shows much more detail than many will want to incorporate, but everyone can decide on just when to stop. The radiator casing has enough rivets to make it a project by itself, for instance.

Good luck with your Furies guys. It was Dennis that got me into bipes and provided me with really valuable advice when I was about to design my Gamecock all those years ago.

Cheers

Gordon

Edited By Gordon Whitehead 1 on 11/07/2017 17:19:49

[Danny Fenton]

Thanks Gordon, wise words indeed. Sport scale modeller extraordinaire I say.....

Dennis certainly designs a lightweight model. And a good source of reference in that DVD.

So our numbers are 3 so far:

Danny F

Chris McG 6969

Martyn K

Regarding a Fury walkaround, how do peeps feel about us trying to arrange a photo session at Duxford, I have no idea how we go about this nor whom we have to speak to. But an RCM&E field trip to photograph and measure their Fury (and Nimrod) could be a fun day out??

If anybody has any ideas let me know

[kc]

I am just a spectator on this.... but my thoughts are...

you could make metal fittings by soldering several thicknesses of brass together and then hacksaw and file to shape, then melt the solder to seperate. There may be many other tricks in the model engineering books.   A trip to a Model Engineer exhibition to consult the experts on the SMEE stand would be worthwhile for any really tricky metal parts.

Bend allowance is the thing in wire bending ... an article in Aviation Modeller some years ago covered the calculation of this plus marking out. I expect i could find the article if anyone needs it.

I reckon everyone should start by making the metal parts because if you spend months or years making the balsa bits and cannot eventually make the cabane struts etc properly then all that work is wasted!

Chris. A while ago someone noted that lithoplate is sold on Ebay. Also I have seen it sold at model shows

 

Edited By kc on 11/07/2017 19:09:30

[Colin Leighfield]

I've got the litho-plate and have been itching to use it. Count me in. The October 2018 start is the key to this is for me, that makes it realistic. I'll order the lot tomorrow and hold it ready. The Chipmunk is coming on now, I feel motivated again. As soon as it's done I'll get on with the Warbirds Spitfire and ckear the decks for the Fury. Mine will be the Spanish Reepublican version, I like the undercarriage. Count me in for a trip to Duxford.

[McG 6969]

... yippieyeah... Colin will be in. ... and +1 for the Spanish undercarriage.

Sorry, but I hope you'll all understand that a pic-trip to Duxford isn't really corresponding to my financial allowances.

In about the same range, KC. Finding some free (or nearly) litho-plate would help as well to allow me to invest in some Solartex to start my early covering testing.

Cheers

Chris

[Tony Bennett]

 

i will a watcher gents.

 

Tony B

 

Edited By Tony Bennett on 11/07/2017 19:46:52

[DaveyP]

Hi, sorry about this but who is Craig, what is the price and how do we contact him ?

[Danny Fenton]

Hi guys sorry, Craig Hughes is a very handy chap to know at Traplet. he has helped me many times over the years.

Tel: +44 1684 588 500

I have given the link before, but basically take the sale price and deduct 20 percent.

I am not sure how much they are chanrging for shipping, but no doubt that will be added on.

So our numbers are 4 so far:

Danny F

Chris McG 6969

Martyn K

Colin Leighfield

 

You in then Davey?

Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/07/2017 21:00:14

[Fats Flyer]

I'm in with this one Danny.

I have purchased the brass sheet already today and an aviation tin snip set.Luckily I have all the wood in stock already,piano wire ready,plenty of Litho plate and plan ready.

I will be ordering the Spinner and Fibreglass cowl tomorrow.

I'm looking forward to this project.

I will be electric with mine.

I am thinking about the Turnigy G60 300kv motor,do you think this will be sufficient considering a lot of scale detail will be added ?

[Danny Fenton]

and now we are 5

Danny F

Chris McG 6969

Martyn K

Colin Leighfield

Fats

 

The G60 will work well, though personally I would keep the cell count down and up the prop size. Many people compare an electric motor to an ic engine and try and spin a fine pitch prop the way the ic would spin it, lots of revs fine pitch. Electric motors have a totally different power curve. Hi torque at low revs. Big slow props are much more efficient than high reving ones.

The motor specs are a little confusing the weight seems to change dramatically from one report to another. If it weighs 500g plus it is a little portly...... but you may need the nose weight

With electric there isn't really a right or wrong choice, well there is, but the margins are much wider, simply change the cell count or the prop.

Anyway I wasn't going to start thinking about that for ages yet so I won't comit to a formal reply. But it's interesting to chat through.

I can already see a few aleterations I want to make to bring the design a little more up to date, nothing much, but I will be looking at splitting the top wing into three sections I think, and leaving the upper centre sections attached. But as I say I am just musing for now.

We are going to struggle yo put this one off til October this year never mind next year at this rate!

Cheers

Danny

Edited By Danny Fenton on 11/07/2017 21:41:58

[Fats Flyer]

I think you are right about the wings in 3 sections.I built the PV-7 Grain Kitten from Traplets and it is a pain to put together and take apart.

What are you going to use for the wing joiners? The wing section isn't that thick for the size .

I think your right about the starting date as well,Thats the trouble when you choose an exciting aircraft for a scale project with hopefully plenty of people joining in.The more brains the better for all.

[Colin Leighfield]

Some good schemes in "Flying Colours", (Green&Swanborough) and "Military Aircraft Markings&Profiles", (Wheeler). A couple of pages here. Three of the Spanish Furies were fitted with 700 hp Hispano Suiza engines, they must have gone well. Some detail differences in exhaust louvres and detail, but cowling shape unaltered, so not hard to do.

[Nev]

Hi, l'd like to have a go at this so put my name in.

Always fancied building a hart or hind but a fury is close enough. Never built a biplane, so in at the deep end as they say.

Nev.

[Vince Keld 1]

3rd attempt at posting on this thread,using my phone as laptops bust text keeps disappearing and don't know if its posted or not I decided when I resumed aeromodelling that if I built a scale model I would build a fury so will follow this with interest have also bookmarked the thread . Have just moved interstate and the removals company have lost the wings from my junior60, need to set up my shed and decide whether to build a new wing or use the electrics in a new build however the wood pack price is too rich for my budget. Does the plan have patterns for dormers if so I could stretch to the plan and join in.Have loads of balsa etc in stock

[Vince Keld 1]

I see it worked this time auto correct won't allow me type the word I want so for Dormer's read patterns for ribs etc. I see the build isn't starting until next year so plenty if time to gather info and materials so please put me down to join in thanks Vince also has anyone else seen the red arrows fury need to try and post photos now future trip to the sandbox coming

[Vince Keld 1]

Just unpacked my plane's and the fin and elevator have also been broken so decision made if anyone can tell me if patterns are on the plan I'll order it and join in photos in album if anyone is interested

[Danny Fenton]

Hi Vince, glad to have you along. I am a little concerned that this may be a steep learning curve, just going by your questions so far.

There are quite a few on this forum that will gladly help and try to guide you along the path but this is definitely not a first model. There is a fair bit of wire bending to do and inaccuracies will cause incidence problems. There is also a fair bit of metal bracketry to make and solder. I am not wishing to put you off, quite the contrary! but I really don't want to shatter your confidence either.

Yes all the formers are on the plan as are all the other parts. If you wish to build the model all you need is the plan. The cowl is a glass item but forming a cowl from balsa is doable.

I was thinking of simply breaking the top wing into three parts, the lower wing could remain in one piece. I need to study the plan more.

Cheers

Danny

[Vince Keld 1]

Thanks for the reply Danny will now order the plan,agree that my questions make me seem inexperienced but bending and soldering,brazing etc are part ofy skillset at work I'm a qualified heavy duty diesel mechanic,and can arc weld etc no probs swinging big hammers if necessary is also doable bit not in my small shed,my wife let me do carpentry as a hobby for years because I could make stuff to fit not trying to prove a point but now I have the opportunity to further prove my modelling skillset with you guys help of course is what I am looking for I have been an avid reader of all the ukcaa threads for ages and until I saw this thread my next build was going to be a Blue Angel having just moved house I'm keen to start building again but I think I'll finish my glider first need to improve my flying skills will join badmac next week for somewhere to practice sorry for the long post but keen to give it a go
Cheers
Vince

[Vince Keld 1]

Sorry if it seems a bit garbled but typing on my phone and keypad,obscures script on screen and have fat fingers so often press three keys at the same time

[Vince Keld 1]

Autocorrect is also not my friend

[Andy Sephton 1]

I'm well in now, having just ordered the set and three-view from Traplet.....