Martian Posted November 25, 2018 Share Posted November 25, 2018 Looking good Martin have you decided on location of the servos yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 Martin Ref servos, I agree - as far forward as possible, I'm accepting not going for a full depth cockpit so control runs under there won't be a problem. I do hope to have rudder closed loop and elevator pushed Cheers Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted November 27, 2018 Author Share Posted November 27, 2018 Decided to not leave the front in a bit better shape before moving on to the wings so lined the cowl upper and lower parts to get a better fit. And all together - fairly pleased with the fit. I do now have an unscale panel line but will try to minimise the appearance with a little detailing. also shaped the front hatch close to the final fit. A question to Danny and all - what would be the best method to correct the misfit between the fwd fuselage panels - filler or a little additional sheeting ???? Edited By Martin Fane on 27/11/2018 15:25:31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 Hi Martin, that's a difficult one. Like you mine has the same issue. I think really F6 needs to be one or two mm lower still. But as you say two options. Filler or another layer of balsa to feather in....... jury is still out on that one Trust your instinct, you really are good at this mallarky Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 I haven't got this far yet but I assume there is a former under the panel that is 'recessed' If so I would be inclined to separate the panel from the former and try packing it out with strips of 1/32 balsa. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 That panel is a great deal of planking and not easy to lift....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 Moved onto the wings. Following all other builders advice the lower outer panels go together quite easily. Bit more problematic trying to assemble the centre section. I want to have detachable outer panels so started to put the centre section together whilst I still have the outer panel in build. Cant quite figure out how to layout the ribs - help please Am I correct in thinking the front of the ply ribs should be packed out 1/8 at the front spar to bring them flush with the bottom of B5 ? This leaves them around an 1/8 inch proud of the top of B5 ? As for the ply ribs at the trailing edge - they should be fitted so the 1/8 ply cross piece C2 is flush with the top of B6 ? Appreciate any help / guidance on this. Thanks Martin Edited By Martin Fane on 05/12/2018 16:24:54 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 Hi Martin, this area is indeed good fun! I ended up packing the spars with 1/8th and not relying on the ribs at all. I packed the spars with 1/8 as per the wings, and 1/4" under the trailing edge. The nose ribs I arranged so that they followed the contour established with the central sections. I added the bracing without allignment, simply positioned over the spars as central as possible. I found the angle on the bracing was pretty close, but not completely accurate, so some overhang was inevitable. I must confess my method didn't feel very refined a bit more "wing it" Don't forget you need to have an extra set of ply parts to end the wing panels. With hindsight I would use 1/8 balsa versions for the inner two ply ribs. that frees up a pair of ply ribs for the end of the panels The centre section is well over engineered. Probably confused you more than helped, sorry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted December 5, 2018 Share Posted December 5, 2018 Martin, I have just played with the carbon rod you are using, and on first glance it looks perfect, However I can see a snag. When you lay the square section between the rear spars it fills the gap completely. so you will not be able to angle the wing at the join between the centre section and wing panel What you could do is run the square tube straight on, and then pack each side within the Centre section. Only thinking out load. Just inserting the rod in the tube has caused my square carbon to crack, not fit for purpose I am afraid, well at least not without some re-inforcing. You may be as well back with Martyns piano wire and brass tube, although it is heavy Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 Hi Danny Thanks for the info and testing. I had tried a initial test of the rod and square and found it pretty tight at first glance. Obviously as you say there is some fault with the dimensions. I may feedback to Bucks Composites for comment. I may go back to your idea of just using carbon tubes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted December 11, 2018 Author Share Posted December 11, 2018 Wing centre panel partially constructed on the plan using the right panel as a guide. Used 1/8 balsa on the 2 inner ribs as Danny suggested. Decided to go with teachers method for wing panel joining, 6mm tube outer in the spar. The the spare was cut through to seperate the centre and outboard panels. A test with 4mm inner tube shows alignment spot on - very pleased with that Will use the spare ply ribs for the outer panel root ribs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi Furites Been a while but slowly chipping away at things on the Fury. Lower wings finished using same techniques as other builders, my outer panels join to the centre section using carbon tubes at both spars. Test fitted, nice alignment with wing cutout. I cheated with this, the fuselage sides come down to the cross grain bits that i fitted first, I guess it wont matter too much once covered. Here you can see I messed up the fuselage side to stringer join - set the side peice too high, may cut it to size along the blue line. More work on the forward hatch and gun troughs Blue filler to form the lower forward fuselage shape. This area is a bit confussing - do the the lower fuselage sheets fit inside the frames ? I guess so, this gives the opportunity for a lower access panel to the battery compartment. Upper wings started, these will be in three peices, joiners like the lower wing. Comimng together quicker after the lower wing experience. Decided to use some spruce for the forward spar caps - maybe over engineered. Also started to think about the wheels / tyres. From what I can find out the wheel and tyre sizes on the plan are actually quite accurate (I stand to be corrected) Not sure if any of the group photographers have any pictures to confirm ?? The wheel scale thickess just looks to thick so I'm thinking of going slightly narrower, the tyre "overhangs" the wheel a little too. Got these ply discs laser cut by SLEC, really nice clean work Black foam from Mick Reeves although maybe neoprene cord would be better - struggling to find 22mm stuff though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 Lovely work as usual Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 It looks excellent Martin. I’m pretty sure the 4 5/8”/115mm wheel diameter is right, also for the Spanish version. The Dubro vintage wheels are very close to scale I think, except for the lightly moulded spoke simulation which is easy to get rid of. I’ve got the idea for making a pair of sprung wheels as an experiment as well, but the tyres bother me. The Dubro tyres are excellent and very resilient, but I’m reluctant to scrap a pair of those wheels for an experiment. I’ve used foam tyres on light models but they don’t wear well and aren’t very good as springs/shock absorbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted January 25, 2019 Author Share Posted January 25, 2019 Hi Danny Thanks, looking forward to seeing progress on your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Hi Furites Slowly progressing upper wings, now all framed up and starting to add capping strips, shrouds etc. Very much copying Danny and other builders. Used the same carbon sections as Danny for the centre joiners, had the same sizing issues but the rod sands nicely when spun in an electric drill My right angle dremmel attachment took care of the centre section spar location holes for the cabane securing clips Need a bit of help with the upper wing outboard trailing edge S1 and S2 parts. There must need to be some shaping here or have I completely mis understood how these parts should go together ?? I can see that there still needs to be the 1/16 sheet shroud to go on to the trailing edge peice but there still looks to be a bit of "extra material" on S1 and S2 ??? If anybody can offer some advise I'd be very grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 Looks great Martin I found it easier to do all the cappings first. I added some meat to s1 and s2 as Andy did. But then sanded much of it away again. Wing it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 That 90 degree drive for the dremel looks brill I NEED one PAR group does neoprene foam chord at 25mm diameter, just need to sweet talk them out of some this is my wing tip area around S1/2 Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted May 9, 2019 Author Share Posted May 9, 2019 Hi Furites Quick update, a bit more progress, ailerons finally just about constructed and hinged. I'm following Danny with RDS so this all looks familiar looks familiar. Still need to cut a channelon the wing tip trailing edges for the outboard hinge rod. Nice fit of the ailerons with the frise aileron effect noticeable with up aileron. RDS pockets also started. i'm seeing almost an inch of up / down aileron deflection possible so plenty me thinks ???? Some reinforcing with carbon sheet Elevators joined - G10 horn and square section carbon rod Still pondering rudder and elevator servo location but plate made and tried behind F4. Aligning the plate with the fueslage structure join seems like it will provide good alignment for the elevator control rod and rudder pull pull cables to the rear end ?? The plate is a lamination of 1/16 ply & 1/16 balsa the 1/64 ply underneath then some small 1/16 ply plates for the servo screws.. Also done a little "rigging" - horizontal stabiliser located and secured with dry fit skewers, this will eventually be glued to the support plate. Just wondering if we need to have the vertical stabiliser off set to the left with our electric power train ?? Any advice gladly received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi All I'm looking to use Danny's RDS solution for the aileron control. I have a pair of HiTech HS125MG thin wing servos for this. They only come with single arm horns and the servo output spline is not the same as for example the HS225MG so I cannot use a 2 or 4 arm or disc horn from these on the HS125. I cannot seem to find anyone who supplies after market horns with this spline size. Anybody come across this or have a solution ? Any help appreciated. regards Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Martin does this stable help, it is from the servo city.com web site Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 If that link is correct then the arms from the mighty feather servo, the HS65HB should work. Just so happens I have two sets of extra arms in my hand, do you want them to try? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted June 18, 2019 Author Share Posted June 18, 2019 Hi Danny That's brilliant info. Yes please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted June 18, 2019 Share Posted June 18, 2019 Just for info, Servo Shop aka Steve Webb Models sells the servo arm kits, the one for the HS65HB is only £1.95 just need confirmation that they fit the 125. Went in the post box 10 mins ago Martin, let us know if they fit? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Fane Posted June 24, 2019 Author Share Posted June 24, 2019 Hi Danny Servo horn set splines were a perfect fit - i owe you one RDS fittings now installed onto the horns Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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