Danny Fenton Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 okay so the journey begins.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 That looks pretty straight forward, Danny. It's as good as done Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 It is fairly straightforward Geoff, ther is still time to join in you know The iffy bit on this is that blessed threaded section for the rigging plate. I think the easiest solution is to leave it off until the whole assembly is ready for covering, then let the screw and plate in by removing a small section of rib on one side Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 is that it Danny I thought you would be half way to finishing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 I wouldn't 'push' the Chief, Martian... ... or you might get a full house of board erasers before you realize. The other reason being that I 'll have to be several weeks late to start. Let's keep the Boss at a steady low pace, it's not a race after all. Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 You know I am not a fast builder.... Hopefully you can see how the threaded rod and tension plate will fit. The slot is only accesable from the one side. The two small gaps are sealed with some balsa before covering. The whole things has been sanded to profile, quite difficult to keep it symetrical, but slowly does it. On to the rudder now.... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 Okay that's enough for this evening. I wanted to start with an easy bit that I could bin if I couldn't get back into the groove, but all is well so tomorrow the tailplane and elevators which should be a much greater challenge. There is still a notch to cut in the fin trailing edge for the 1/8 ply stern/fin post R1, but that can wait until the fuselage id under way. Oh I know a couple of people need to know this, fin 5.6g rudder 7.6g Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 01/10/2018 20:58:21 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 1, 2018 Share Posted October 1, 2018 I still haven't unrolled my plan. Still too much on the building board and maintenance tasks this week. Will make a start in a few days. I just wish I could build as neat as that though. What are the rudder hinges Danny? Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 1, 2018 Author Share Posted October 1, 2018 Hi Martyn, no worries it isn't a race The hinges are regular Dubro jobs, as per the plan. The way the hinges are done on the full size is difficult to replicate without making the tail surfaces from tubing, which we haven't done. So it is a compromise, I know... page 2 and I am compromising, doesn't bode well does it Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Just in case I am not being very clear, here are a couple of shots of the fin and rudder. If anybody is struggling to follow the plan etc, then please say something There is no such thing as a stupid question, and i can assure you this is not an easy plan to follow and has taken months to figure out parts of it. So I may make assumptions that are unfair on you guys, so please speak up Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Hi Danny, Thanks for the additional pics. This will sound very daft indeed, but if I remember your Chippie thread well, you were giving more details about - for example - the glues you used, the kit parts but also the stock bits that weren't included in the kit, etc. Now my plans and kit are still wrapped and of course, I do realize that I'm the most novice member of your Classroom, so I might just sit back and wait till I'm less overwhelmed. Also, I can't project myself doing the fin/rudder parts including 'careful' sanding in just one evening, even being a 'long' session. I guess I'll need something like ten sessions for this... ppfff ! The DB plan shows six ribs for the rudder, yours has five. Is this on purpose? Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Hi Chris, you are steeley eyed. One house point to Chris I had six ribs on one side, but not the other! when I looked at the pic I spotted it and quickly added it before bed I have used a SLEC stripping tool to use the edges of the sheets of wood that the parts arrive in. If the wood is too heavy then switch to lighter stock by all means. I fold the plan so that i can work on the relevent section without cutting the plan up, I really hate that, not sure why I rarely use a plan again! I use the backing from Solartex (doesn't everybody keep the film backing for plan preotecting?) Balsa Cabin also sells plan protector sheets which is very good. Glues, I have tried all sorts, but being impatient I am using Rocket Hot, which is a thin CA. For larger surfaces I use Titebond wood glue. CA gives a brittle joint so dont flood the area! Waiting and soaking what you see up is very wise. If we fall into a hole, and do something wrong, you will be able to benefit Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/10/2018 16:26:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 On the full size and the model there is a slot in the fin for the rear fin >< tailplane rigging wire. I can see this on the plan. Your heading Nimrod shows a front wire as well. How will this be fastened Danny? Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Posted by Danny Fenton on 02/10/2018 16:23:58: I fold the plan so that i can work on the relevent section without cutting the plan up, I really hate that, not sure why I rarely use a plan again! Cheers Danny That's why I get a plan copied (in my case at Staples or whatever they're called now) so I feel free to cut it up as required without needing to feel guilty. Geoff Edited By Geoff Sleath on 02/10/2018 16:40:40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Posted by Martyn K on 02/10/2018 16:33:17: On the full size and the model there is a slot in the fin for the rear fin >< tailplane rigging wire. I can see this on the plan. Your heading Nimrod shows a front wire as well. How will this be fastened Danny? Martyn You are quite right Martin I hadn't spotted that. Not just the Nimrod, but the Fury as well, plan is missing it. I will have to ponder that. I guess i am going to have to add another in a similar way to the rear one. The fittings are expensive and it will add weight. I might have to see if I can do this another way. Maybe Piano wire as specified on the plan? Thoughts anybody? Geoff I have an aversion to cutting a plan up, I know it isn't rational but there you go...... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Tailplane assembly shots. Fairly self explanatory I hope? Anyway there is a 1/4 balsa centre section on both sides of the tailplane. This is going to add weight unless you are careful with wood selection Mine is fairly light already, I may cut a few holes, I will think about it..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 This last shot shows the basic tools I use, the only item missing is the sanding block from Balsa Cabin. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 thank you kind sir, they will help when i start mine tomorrow. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 2, 2018 Author Share Posted October 2, 2018 Okay the sanding is done on the horizontal stabiliser. The key is to focus on getting the doublers around the edge really thin, pay attention to the cut through sections shown on the plan and taper the edges as if it were sheet balsa. Always keep the block skewed around 45 degrees to the ribs or you will catch them and break them off, I know this but still broke one once the doublers ats on the perimeter are sized then blend that thickness ont the ribs. Easier done than said but it isn't easy and you need a good eye. You should end up with something like this: 23.4g Can you see how much doubler remains at the leading edge? and that distance needs to stay constant all the way around the tips. The trailing edge remains square, not radiused (is that a word?) Cheers Danny Edited By Danny Fenton on 02/10/2018 22:07:17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Hi Danny Back to the fin rigging wires, this photo doesn't show a front fin rigging wire No hole either Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 3, 2018 Author Share Posted October 3, 2018 Its a replica Martyn The rear rigging wire is on a thread on the full size. When the pitch trim is applied it lifts the rigging and the tailplane to alter pitch. Wouldnt mind seeing the tailplane mounts on the full size i guess that has a similar screwjack type thread. I can only assume the replica isnt exact, though it sure looks it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 5, 2018 Author Share Posted October 5, 2018 A quick trial fit of the battery packs 2 x 2700mAh 5S as planned, but ther is room for a third in between, to give me 8100mAh. Should be enough Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Bennett Posted October 5, 2018 Share Posted October 5, 2018 i can get a 5000mah 5s in my gap or 2x 5000mah 4s lipo's. just depends on the motor i decide to fit. Tony B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 I appreciate that some joining in are not as comfortable with building from a plan as others so I have done a bit of a piccy sequence that may help. Those of you steaming ahead can look away Here the perimeter is outlined with tha various thicknesses of wood. I used a much lighter wood stock for this as i am trying to save weight. However the edges of the sheets containing the parts is a great source of wood and saves wastage. I use a SLEC Balsa Stripper to cut my strip wood from a sheet of soft 1/4 inch balsa. You can also see that i do not build over the plan for these bits. I am using thin CA in a pipette and only hold the part flat down when i am gluing. Very little glue is needed otherwise the joint gets swamped and the entire area becomes brittle. (and adds pointless weight. If you are more comfy with aliphatic or pva then pin the part down to keep it flat while the glue dries. You can see I true one end of the stringers/ribs and then add a few marks to give me the approx size, and angle. Cut with a razor saw, slightly over size then sand down to size, frequently trial fitting. I hold the part down while running a fine bead of CA along the join. pressing down gently as it dries, 5 secs typically. continue attaching all the parts, then flip over and do the other side. Shaping is done with a medium fine Perma Grit block. I chamfer the edges down to the edge of the 1/16th balsa core at 45 degrees, then alter the angle to gradually include the ribs etc. Then i finisish final shaping by eye. Pay careful attention to the aerodynamic balances at the front of the elevators. Don't forget to leave cut outs for the glass horns. The horn is not glued yet, that will happen after the tops have been covered. As for the joiners i am still musing over that one. I am in favour of a carbon tube with a glass horn J and B welded in place, but the piano wire method will work fine, just heavier. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted October 12, 2018 Author Share Posted October 12, 2018 With any luck and a following wind we should have something like this. You didn't forget the plywood reinforcing for the rigging wires and struts did you? I have also added the riblets. As was pointed out two are missing from the plan, so 4 extras had to be made. Okay what's next? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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