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Fury Plan Issues


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in consultation with Danny, I've decided to start a thread that lists all the issues we've had with building the model from the plan. I'll say right now that this is not a criticism - as a designer of kit and plan models, I'm fully aware that it's darn near impossible to create a perfect model. However, if we list what we find here as well as in our own threads, it should make finding out the issues a lot easier.

So, I'll start it off with a few that have already been posted, plus one or two of my own:

While building the fuselage, Tony B has discovered that the side former FS2 is too wide at the top and top formers F2, F5 and F6 are all too wide:

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Jose L.G. has noticed that there is a riblet missing on the tailplane plan:

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Now for my input:

The 3/16" deep rectangular holes in former F11 need relieving for the 1/4" tailplane mounting plate:

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and there may be a conflict between the doubler D1 on the inside of the fuselage around the lower wing mount and the bolts for the undercarriage fixing at the bottom of former F3.

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Martyn K has noted some anomalies with the lower wing tips and tip ribs, but I have no details at the moment - If you read this Martyn, please post.

That's all for now......... but watch this space! wink

 

Edited By Andy Sephton 1 on 13/10/2018 16:21:51

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Thanks Peter, very little triangular stock is mentioned on the plan, but yes it needs adding as appropriate. The forward battery box on the electric version needs it to increase the gluing area to the motor bulkhead.

I have heard from Richard Dalgleish who has been flying his Bryant Fury for some time. He suggests upping the 14SWG piano wire tail skid, his has snapped!

Cheers

Danny

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Great idea Andy

The only error that I have found relates to the two wing tip ribs:

wing15a.jpg

Basically, the slot for the inner two of the three special outer ribs appears to be misplaced. This results in the little cut away at the rear being positioned too far to the rear and the rib overhangs the ply tip piece too much. A secondary effect is that the slot to accommodate the ply tip piece at the LE is also too long by the same amount. However, and this is the puzzling bit, the rib butts nicely up to the LE.

There are two fixes. Either 1. cut a new pair of ribs (x4) and eyeball/measure it or 2. Extend the cut away and shorten the rib slightly (about 2-3 mm) at the TE.

The spar slot on the inner of the ribs is also too large, but this can be easily filled with a slither of 1/16" balsa

Martyn

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Okay I have just been on the phone to Martin, as his F6 is different to the F6 show on the plan. We made some measurement checks to confirm his plan was at the correct scale. The wingspan of the top wing is 60" so 30" or 762mm. We also did some checks on the fuselage length. It seems martins plan is about a 6mm undersized over the entire sheet. Not a great deal and probably not really enough to worry about, but it has meant the fit of the upper bulkheads are not as snug as mine for example.

Right the F6 issue, Martin's F6 is a different shape to the F6 on my plan, as you can see from his post. What I will say is please make sure your parts match the plan you are building from.

As far as the side formers go, they are not correct, FS1 is so far out I had to make a new version! But the main problem ones are FS1 and FS2. FS3 may also need flattening off a bit. There are clearly different versions of the plan and you need to be careful.

Cheers

Danny

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been looking at the top wing. With the ribs cut to the shape shown on the plan, the spar positions are slightly out, the LE overhangs a bit and the end of the rib at the TE is too short:

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it's not a major issue as I'll set the spar positions using the ribs and the rear end will be taken care of by the rib capping strips. I'll accept the slight overhang on the LE as I'm not after a 'perfect' scale model.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Is there any reason why the fuselage doubler on the electric version and doubler D1 can’t go on the outside rather than on the inside? It would suit me to do it that way and it doesn’t seem impossible, am I missing something?

Also wondering whether to remake the tanged parts that fit t into F11 from 3/16” rather than open up the slots.

Edited By Colin Leighfield on 25/11/2018 11:08:30

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