Danny Fenton Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 (edited) One of the disadvantages of using Ashlok's for connecting multiple servos, as I have for the wings on my Auster, is you have to make a break-out lead to be able to use a servo tester to move things when not connected to the model, in this case without wings attached. Not difficult but saves assembling the model to move surfaces for spraying. Cheers Danny Edited May 16, 2022 by Danny Fenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted May 16, 2022 Share Posted May 16, 2022 Is there a good reason for not gently moving the surface by hand, Danny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 10 minutes ago, Nick Somerville said: Is there a good reason for not gently moving the surface by hand, Danny. Hi Nick, I am not sure if it is the servos I use, or the horns. Things like flaps protest, I think because the horns are so short on this. The ailerons can be forcefully moved, but not the flaps. The joys of making such lightweight fittings I guess. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 16, 2022 Author Share Posted May 16, 2022 Actually I have realised exactly why the flaps wont move manually, the servo arm is in line with the horn at full down travel, ie mechanical lock. Obvious really, anyway it is nice to test wing servos with the cable ? Cheers Danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 Sorted the tailplane rigging, used the Reeves fork ends. cheers Danny 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 17, 2022 Share Posted May 17, 2022 Did you know that silver solder won’t flow over Tippex....but I expect you did ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 38 minutes ago, cymaz said: Did you know that silver solder won’t flow over Tippex....but I expect you did ? Lol no I didn't but it doesnt surprise me. Thx not sure when i might need that nugget ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 17, 2022 Author Share Posted May 17, 2022 Xoar 13 x 8 arrived today, suits the model just right. Shame its spinning the wrong way ? struggling to find excuses not to spray some primer...... Though I need to figure how to make a stumpy spinner cone to cover that prop nut and crank-shaft thread........ Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 The rib tapes appear to have worked out rather well Danny. What technique did you use in the end? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 51 minutes ago, Nick Somerville said: The rib tapes appear to have worked out rather well Danny. What technique did you use in the end? Thanks Nick, they are a little untidy and spacing not as even as it shouldbe, which is not really right, but they will do. The tapes you see on the wings/ailerons and tail-plane/fin/rudder are 1/4 scale Mick Reeves items, believe it or not the pitch was closer to 1/5th than 1/4. On the fuselage I have used some lovely tapes from Gary Sibbert, his company Pink-It produced them. However Gary has called it a day and they are no longer available. It was mooted that a US company had taken the Sibbert tooling but alas the link I was given doesn't work so I am not sure if that is the case. anyway the rib tape process is covered on my You Tube channel if you get bored, much easier to show than to write about. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 (edited) 15 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: "Though I need to figure how to make a stumpy spinner cone to cover that prop nut and crank-shaft thread........" How about a Radio Active type spinner with the spinner backplate skirt removed and new slots for the prop cut in the cone? Original idea credit - Gordon Whitehead Edited May 18, 2022 by Manish Chandrayan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 2 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: I have used some lovely tapes from Gary Sibbert, his company Pink-It produced them. However Gary has called it a day and they are no longer available. It was mooted that a US company had taken the Sibbert tooling but alas the link I was given doesn't work so I am not sure if that is the case. The link to current Pink-It tapes product Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manish Chandrayan Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 17 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: Sorted the tailplane rigging, used the Reeves fork ends. cheers Danny Danny no perimeter and rib tapes on the fin? Or did you add them after this picture was taken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Charles Hart Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 Looking good! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 Thanks Manish, have to see what the shipping will be ? the last time I checked that link it didn't work. Good news. Yes I was in the throws of adding tapes. However perimeter tapes are already present, the Pink-It tape is thin and clear. But I have added more tapes ? I thought I would try the Reeves sticky stitches, not impressed..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted May 18, 2022 Share Posted May 18, 2022 8 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: . The tapes you see on the wings/ailerons and tail-plane/fin/rudder are 1/4 scale Mick Reeves items, Thats a great video tutorial as usual Danny, many thanks and the stiching looks very satisfying to do. I was planning to get some MR tapes too but I can’t get my head around the sizing. 2” for full scale means for my 1/4.5 FW the tapes would be .45” wide yet your tapes look much narrower. As you can see in this photo of the ailerons the rib spacing is very narrow so a tape at that dimension would almost fill out to each adjacent tape, which is not how it looks in photos of the full size. From what I have seen the tape should be closer to 4mm wide. Can you tell me what the width of your MR tape is please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 Hi Nick, the Reeves 1/4 scale tapes I have used are a gnats nadger over 12mm Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 19, 2022 Author Share Posted May 19, 2022 About to start looking at some detailing and have been mulling over zips for access panels. Anybody come up with a way to produce convincing replicas at 1/5th scale? I have a few ideas, but am always open to suggestions ? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 21, 2022 Author Share Posted May 21, 2022 Some size "0" zips arrived today, I think I can do something with them..... Set the garage up for spraying and coat some primer on the model. I am concerned as the Solartex rib tapes have not adhered well to the doped Ceconite. But in a way that's what the primer coat is for, to highlight problems. Now I have a blank canvas to work too. Wings are also done, just not much to see but more greyness! I am still mildly concerned about paint bonding, never an issue before but this Ceconite worries me.... Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 What primer are you using , Danny? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 Hi Nick I am sticking to my trusty U-Pol P-88 cellulose based primer/filler, but with hindsight for the cowl area I should have used an epoxy primer. In the engine bay I have introduced a layer that is not fuel proof. It will get an epoxy over the top but the glow fuel could de laminate the paint. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 It’s a good primer Danny, pretty sure it was yourself who recommended it to me. All the layers under the paint are not fuel resistant ? but Klasskote or two pack top coat really does protect from fuel ingress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted May 22, 2022 Share Posted May 22, 2022 Danny Any good for you? https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3973 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 40 minutes ago, cymaz said: Danny Any good for you? https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=3973 Thanks Cymaz, i will use klass kote over the top. The issue is especially inside the cowl, if the outer epoxy layer is breached the celly primer will let go and paint flake off. I have seen it on a control line model, though that was subjected to hogh nitro. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted May 22, 2022 Author Share Posted May 22, 2022 So that's the wings and fus rubbed back and ready for some silver, but first I need to figure out these zips.... Cheers Danny 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.