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DB Sport and Scale Auster J1 Autocrat


Danny Fenton

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Hi chaps, a bit off the current topic, but does anyone have a thought as to the best place to put the servo battery (specifically an NiMH 23006v)? Under the cowl seems a bit of a tight fit - i guess that it could go in the cabin, but a bit of an eyesore....Also, not much room in the servo bay.

 

Richard

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4 minutes ago, Richard Mallam. said:

Thanks Danny, however, I have used the top section for the throttle servo, but your suggestion has made me think that maybe the underside would be OK - suitably fixed with strong rubber bands...!

My second thought, if the top is not big enough for whatever pack I choose, is one of the sides a good choice?

 

Cheers

Danny

 

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49 minutes ago, Ron Gray said:

That’s what I have done with my Taylorcraft Danny, using a 2600 Li-Fe. 

Great thanks Ron ? you have fitted the batt to the sides or the top? How many flights does that give you before recharging?

 

Cheers

Danny

Edited by Danny Fenton
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Sorry I didn't make it clear! The battery is fitted to the side of the engine bay, actually there is no wooden framework further forward than the bulkhead so the battery has its own securing 'plate' and zip tie which hold it long edge against the bulkhead (vertically). It's difficult to say how many flights but at a guess I would say 5 flights of 7 - 8 mins each. The reason why I can't be more accurate is that I usually take 2 or 3 'planes when I go flying so the TC doesn't get flown each time I take to the runway, however when I do take it it is the 'main model' so gets flown more than the others and I've never re-charged the Li-Fe at the field. I should also add that the flights with the TC tend to be somewhat 'spirited' so there is plenty of stick use on all 4 channels (no flaps). Hope that helps.

 

I knew I had a photo somewhere!

 

image.png.03480e26d6ed8a1c285de7a2dec63140.png

 

This was the reaction from 'Fearless Fred' having been asked to test fly it with the battery like that.

 

image.png.9a84848ef22529263d8ceb4011a5901e.png

 

Had to be forced to board the 'plane

 

image.png.4fb0b15a6238ea0b0e2d77746e0b1fb9.png

Edited by Ron Gray
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Started again with the windscreen, shapes were wrong on version 4 so started again using a different approach.

 

Chatting to others there is no secret technique and all you can do is trim, add, until you have a template, then pray that transferring to thicker material doesn't mess it all up! It certainly helps to break it down into smaller chunks.

 

726.thumb.jpg.c59dc9b22d48f034e8ab0fa509c131d2.jpg

 

Cheers

Danny

 

 

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Well that was not fun and needed three pairs of hands, umpteen bits of tape, two rather stout clamping strips and a huge pot of patience as bits flew around the workshop. There is a fair bit of tension involved.

The supplied PETG was not used, two reasons, 1. it was .56mm thick and too stiff. 2. it was the wrong shape, and too small to use.

I used .46mm in the end, and managed, with a fair bit more trimming of the thicker piece. But it is attached, lets see what happens when the glue dries and the clamps are released hopefully it wont fly-off!

728.thumb.jpg.c637eef90aca537e973982d40ef05bf1.jpg

 

Cheers

Danny

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The rear top section is awkward because you have no idea how much of the vac-formed section you need to trim. Eventually nearly all the straight sides are removed.

I was quite worried about gluing the top section on, as this would restrict access to the inside of the cockpit should anything come loose or even fall off!

 

I needed a beam across the cockpit to hold the forward screen flat, and stop it from bowing upwards. This was also used as a means of attaching the rear canopy. The beam was made from 3mm square carbon tube. Glued to the underside of the forward section and duly threaded and 7 Mick Reeves "Cor Blimey" screws used to hold everything in place. Two slightly larger screws at the rear keeps that from coming off. (I hope!!!)

 

733.thumb.jpg.cd5770f9e2ebd253a2305048e75eeb75.jpg

 

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Now to the alloy cover around the forward perimeter, between the screen and the fuselage.

 

Remember all this on the "Devil is in the Detail" You Tube Channel ?

 

Cheers

Danny

 

Edited by Danny Fenton
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A bit more done.

I spent a while shaping/annealing/shaping/annealing a section of lithoplate for the join between the windscreen and fuselage.

 

735.thumb.jpg.8fe6138c3b0d04042867cdf8739b07f0.jpg

 

Fortunately just before fitting I checked my reference pics, and they all seem to have a half-round alloy strip attaching the screen.....

 

Much easier than I expected, 2mm half round styrene to the rescue.

 

736.thumb.jpg.5ea7587727182eccd9052545524709f3.jpg

 

Cheers

Danny

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So after much thought and two choccy biscuits, plus one coffee, I decided that the exhaust can stay on the wrong side, not many will know ?

 

So with that decided it was on to chop the cowl to allow the exhaust to poke through, made doubly difficult as the cowl has to be removable for maintenance. I had hoped to make four holes, but that didn't work as the cowl wouldn't go past the exhaust stubs.

 

Some Auster's have a section removed from No.1 exhaust to No.4 so I opted for this.

 

738.thumb.jpg.18abad7a9c40d5e81a106ad59bf87fb4.jpg

 

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Anyway that's where we are at so far.

 

Cheers

Danny

Edited by Danny Fenton
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