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Laminating film - buying it and using it.


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14 hours ago, Mike Tomlin said:

 Tissue and dope over the film stiffens it up, be careful with undercambered wings, use non-shrinking dope or the tissue will pull away from the film when it shrinks. 

 

It does need a hot covering iron, I use a prolux digital version at 220degrees. This will attach and shrink the film, if there are still wrinkles I hit it with a hot air gun. Heat it until the wrinkles 'pop' out then get the heat off quickly or you will blow a hole in the film.

Mike, I built this old Amigo 2 kit about 3 1/2 years ago. The wing is quite markedly undercambered. It's covered with tissue over (IIRC 35 micron) gloss laminating film. After film was in place & shrunk I covered it with damp tissue brushed down with shrinking dope (Thinned about 50%). When this was dry it was given a couple more coats of the thinned dope. The tissue has not pulled away from the film since covering.

 

Re the high temperatures - I managed to get some bad wrinkles in the film on the sheet balsa root area of one wing so re-heated with a heat gun whilst smoothing with the iron. I hastily stopped when noticed that the wood was becoming scorched under the film. Although the scorched area of the wood was left visibly brown the film was completely undamaged & thankfully also smooth.

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8 hours ago, PatMc said:

Mike, I built this old Amigo 2 kit about 3 1/2 years ago. The wing is quite markedly undercambered. It's covered with tissue over (IIRC 35 micron) gloss laminating film. After film was in place & shrunk I covered it with damp tissue brushed down with shrinking dope (Thinned about 50%). When this was dry it was given a couple more coats of the thinned dope. The tissue has not pulled away from the film since covering.

 

Re the high temperatures - I managed to get some bad wrinkles in the film on the sheet balsa root area of one wing so re-heated with a heat gun whilst smoothing with the iron. I hastily stopped when noticed that the wood was becoming scorched under the film. Although the scorched area of the wood was left visibly brown the film was completely undamaged & thankfully also smooth.

PatMc, you are right, that's the way I did it. I think the real problem was that I was using a rather heavyweight tea bag paper, basically silkspan, that stuff really shrinks with water and shrinking dope. Managed to get away with it by putting weights on the tissue between the ribs and then re-doping along the rib lines. No problem with the film, it never became detatched from the ribs.

 

Apparently laminating film can be tinted by boiling with "Rit" fabric dye, it then looks like the other transparent films. Both the glue and shrink need considerably more heat than boiling water so there's no glue set or shrinkage during dyeing. Haven't tried it though.

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42 minutes ago, Mike Tomlin said:

Apparently laminating film can be tinted by boiling with "Rit" fabric dye, it then looks like the other transparent films. Both the glue and shrink need considerably more heat than boiling water so there's no glue set or shrinkage during dyeing. Haven't tried it though.


That’s a new one on me, must give it a go!

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4 hours ago, Mike Tomlin said:

PatMc, you are right, that's the way I did it. I think the real problem was that I was using a rather heavyweight tea bag paper, basically silkspan, that stuff really shrinks with water and shrinking dope. Managed to get away with it by putting weights on the tissue between the ribs and then re-doping along the rib lines. No problem with the film, it never became detatched from the ribs.

 

Mike, I used heavyweight Modelspan but because of my colour scheme choice I covered from the spar to TE first then spar to LE using a single coat of thinned dope for each section. Subsequent coats of dope applied to both areas in one go. 

If I'd been using a single colour, I'd have applied the damp tissue as before but brushed the thinned dope along the LE,TE, tip, root edges then the spar & allowed that to partially dry before a brushing a first coat over the rest.   

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Edited by PatMc
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Envelopes delivered to me and all packaged up, so costs:

 

10m - £9.30

20m - £15.10

 

These prices are for delivery via Royal Mail 2nd class.

 

Please pm me, if you haven't already, with your delivery address and I'll give details of how to pay.

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