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Problems buying paint


Andy Stephenson
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I've been searching around the web for paint for my new project and looking at car paint suppliers. They always want the exact paint code, make and model of the car to be painted. The problem is I don't know a paint code to quote when I just want, say, Ford Frozen White and I don't care if it's not a perfect match with anything.

Is there a better way to buy acrylic paint for modellers. I need reasonable quantities so the tiny packs from model shops won't do especially at the prices you have to pay for such small quantities.

Advice appreciated.

 

Andy.

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I was hoping for non-aerosol paint as I like to reserve the opportunity to mix colours. It appears from that site the only artist type paints that don't come in aerosols.

I wouldn't rule out aerosols if I can get the right colour but I prefer to use a spray gun.

I didn't initially look at the Montana Black range because I assumed that was the only colour it came in like the model T Ford.

 

A.

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I use automotive paint to paint my models most of the time.

I usually use Cellulose paint for cheapness and for ease of mixing and handling, plus most of my painted models are either PSS gliders or electric. I do use 2k clear as a fuelproofer for glow models when needed though.

 

I use a supplier based in the West Midlands called Jawel Paints. I found ordering through their website easy and their service quick, plus their paint does what it says on the tin.

To take your example of Ford Frozen white, I googled "Ford Frozen White paint code" and got the result "7VTA" in seconds. There is a text box to type this code on on the Jawel site.

 

Their carriage costs are reasonable too (my last order was a 5L tin of thinners and two 1/4 litres of paint). I live in NE England, so have no prior knowledge or connection to the company.

 

I would imagine any car paint supplier could manage the same service though?

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Alan, I read with interest about the RAF using BS colours, as I have been looking for Camo colours for an Army plane.You dont happen to know what the codes are for our RAF/Army do you.( I presume that it also includes the Navy colours.)

I am a newbie, so could you tell me what type of paint I should use(Electric only)

Thanks Bas

Edited by Basil
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Basil if you told me what colours you wanted to paint it then maybe?

 

Or alternatively, here is a link to a BS381 colour chart which includes camoflage colours - see if you can spot your chosen colours by name:

 

https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=page_6

 

Sorry OP - back to your topic!

Edited by Alan Gorham_
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Just ask to look at there paint chips, they all have them find the colour you want and they can mix it, alternatively take something the colour you want and they can match it using a spectrophotometer, I get as little as 1/10 of litre mixed somtimes, but also get it mixed in aerosols sometimes. If your paint supplier won't do this find another, most towns and cities have several 

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Any decent paint factors will be able to supply/ mix any of the  British standard colours. A chart can be found online . If you can't find a colour there then look for an established paint factor and if possible go along and speak to them . They should have paint colour swatches to look at and will be able mix any colour you choose. Also ask what minimum amount they will mix as it's expensive stuff. Our local will mix 1/10 th of a liter so pretty handy . The only other choice you will need to decide on is if you want it in water based or solvent based base coat , acrylic two pack 2 K , or cellulose. Water based base coat is good on most types of foam but will need a clear coat protective coat . He solvent based base coat is really good on elapore type foam but again will need a clear coat protective finish. I have used Ronseal  water based clear  over both types with good results .

Cellulose . Not all paint factors can supply cellulose paint and if they can they will not/ are not allowed to supply cellulose paint for automotive use unless is intended for a historic vehicle and proof of vehicle ownership will be required. Tell them it's for a model aircraft and they should be fine.  For IC models any paint other than 2K will need a fuelpoof Clearcoat protective finish. Don't forget that paint is heavy any any excessive paint will come at a weight cost. 

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Hi Engine Doctor, I am a novice and have stuck to electric so far. Seems good to me. I like the sound of water based paints. Mainly that they can be cleaned with water so means I dont have to buy thinners/gun cleaner etc. Do water based take to the films used today, I include the laminate we have been discussing on the forum lately. Been involved with carpentry and the like for some years so I already use acrylic varnish, it has its drawbacks  but is very convenient.

What sort of solvent based coating can  be purchased from these outlets discussed that, can also be used for brush appilaction, as there are areas where an aerosol spray cant be used and need to resort to brush application.

thanks in advance.

Bas

Edited by Basil
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I have actually managed order some cellulose paint from an automotive paint supplier, thanks to Alan for the tip of searching for paint codes on the internet (should have thought of that). I found a Ford colour code chart. I only need white and Frozen white wasn't on there so I went back to the old faithful Diamond White. I didn't actually specify I wanted it for models as the online form asks about the car it's for so I just filled in the details of a car on the chart and they acknowledged my order and it's now mixed and on it's way. I ordered a litre which will last a long time but it will be worth it in the long run because of transport costs.

Edited by Andy Stephenson
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On 15/03/2021 at 15:16, Geoff Gardiner said:

I usually buy a humbrol tin of the colour that I want, paint a 3cm square swatch on a bit of white card, then take it to B&Q and get them to scan it and mix a tester pot (should be enough for 2 or 3 models).

I did this for my latest. Unless I did something wrong, it took literally eight (8) brush coats to get a good colour on the model. It was over white tissue doped onto balsa. Maybe I should have put a dark primer on first, Then the olive drab b and q emulsion. I am  going  back to Humbrol. however expensive it is. Never had a problem with Humbrol.

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22 hours ago, Basil said:

Hi Engine Doctor, I am a novice and have stuck to electric so far. Seems good to me. I like the sound of water based paints. Mainly that they can be cleaned with water so means I dont have to buy thinners/gun cleaner etc. Do water based take to the films used today, I include the laminate we have been discussing on the forum lately. 

What sort of solvent based coating can  be purchased from these outlets discussed that, can also be used for brush appilaction, as there are areas where an aerosol spray cant be used and need to resort to brush application.

thanks in advance.

Bas

Hi Basil . Most car product are intended for spray application , although small areas can be painted with a brush using paint unthinned. I use a small touch in gun for most jobs as have some spray equipment left over from my car spraying days. Have a word with a paint factor for info on brushing . 

I can't comment on how the water based car paints adhere to covering films as I have only used them on foam so far. I have used artists acrylic( water based) on Matt film and it sticks well as does Humbrol oil based enamel. Matt laminating films seem to take most paints well. If I get five minutes I'll try some water based based base coat on a piece of Matt film.

If you use a clear/ gloss film I think you will have to abrade the surface with a fin scouring pad to get a key for paint to grip. Car paint factors sell scouring pads with an abrasive compound added . They come in fine medium and coarse grades. These are excellent for preparing smooth surfaces to accept paint quickly and easily.

 

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I would back the comments made by Alan  re Humbrol performance.I have no knowledge of where or who makes it these days. I have been using it to paint various  items (Not model planes). Finding its covering power marketly reduced and thinning is a joke compared with older production. Humbrol is not an ordinary , what one would have called oil based paint. Its routes are in commercially applied products.  The cans I have dont all share the same detail on the label, as some show made by Akzo nobel, others dont. I am of the opinion that Akzo was the originator. It has been the trend in the paint industry for the larger makers to have been merged during various takeovers in the chemical industry. Therefore it's possible that its formulea may have been altered. There has also been various changes to the law that outlaws certain materials due to toxicology/ enviromental aspects.

Bas

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I have used both types of acrylic under coats on lam film and it goes on ok assuming that you have prepped the lam film first (mainly referring to gloss lam film). My LA-7 was finished with ‘car’ primer undercoat (cheap ones from Amazon) and top coats from previously noted acrylic, the whole lot was given a couple of coats of Clearcoat for fuel proofing. It has now completed over 50 flights and there is no flaking paint apart from where it was flipped on finals ripping off the nose and wing!

 

Possibly guilty of thread drift, sorry! (should really be in the dedicated lam film topic I suppose).

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8 hours ago, Basil said:

I would back the comments made by Alan  re Humbrol performance.I have no knowledge of where or who makes it these days. I have been using it to paint various  items (Not model planes). Finding its covering power marketly reduced and thinning is a joke compared with older production. Humbrol is not an ordinary , what one would have called oil based paint. Its routes are in commercially applied products.  The cans I have dont all share the same detail on the label, as some show made by Akzo nobel, others dont. I am of the opinion that Akzo was the originator. It has been the trend in the paint industry for the larger makers to have been merged during various takeovers in the chemical industry. Therefore it's possible that its formulea may have been altered. There has also been various changes to the law that outlaws certain materials due to toxicology/ enviromental aspects.

Bas

Both Windsor & Newton and Rustins have had a go at making Humbrol but I lost track as both were poor. Revell enamel is slightly better but I now only use enamels to paint plastic kits, having found other paint systems which I prefer for flying models.

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