Flair Pupeteer. Electric set up.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

What motor/esc/lipo would we reckon for this model.

Wingspan 60"

Weight 8lb ish

http://www.flairmodels.co.uk/Aircraft/Scouts/Puppeteer.htm

[EarlyBird]

From 4-Max web site.

 

 

Always a good place to start.

 

[Dwain Dibley.]

There is a formula for working out this stuff, power trains that is, but I must admit I now just ask George and the chaps at 4 -Max.

A. All the stuff is in one place.

B. It's a lot easier.

I will try and search it out for you if you want it John, I think it's on my remote hard drive.

D.D.

[Geoff Gardiner]

I use the following on mine:

 

Motor - Turnigy G60 300kv

80A ESC

5S 4000mah Lipo

17x8 Prop

 

Video here.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Just watched a bit of the video - too late to opt for a 52ish 4 stroke John?

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

1 minute ago, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

Just watched a bit of the video - too late to opt for a 52ish 4 stroke John?

 

Looking most likely option Martin, been looking at altering the front end, so the motor don't stick out and spoil it, 2 strokes are shorter but a much smaller prop, lecky, buying numerous 5s lipos don't appeal to me and going off that route.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

If it's anything like mine it will need a significant lump of lead on the firewall so going too far back may have drawbacks.  They aren't anywhere near true scale - especially the nose - and my sticky-out engine doesn't really notice in operation.

 

If you (or anyone else thinking along those lines) opt for an engine, please don't fall into the trap of assuming the wide-open spaces in the cowl mean that the engine will be well cooled. I spent months convincing a Flair Harvard owner to blank off the spare opening area except for immediately around the engine's cylinder - In my opinion it's essential with any of the Flair "kettle" cowled models.  Either a plain blanking disc or a (preferably) a dummy engine, along with a decent exit behind the engine will do the trick.

 

Yes - his engine (which had been fiddled with mercilessly by all and sundry) immediately transformed from dead-sticking every flight to a reliable power plant.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Yep, all my other Scout series models required lead, plans afoot to minmize that, and deeper cowl not been dismissed yet, never had issues with deadsticks Martin but a dummy engine would look nice.

[Andy48]

On my electric one, I split the fuselage after the cockpit so it could stay rigged and still get it in the car. I also hinged the aluminium cowl with the motor and ESC mounted to it and the 5S battery slides in from the front. I also got a dummy motor and the electric motor fits nicely inside the crankcase. My setup is pretty much the same as 4max, and the battery as far forward as it is ensures the local church can keep its lead roof.

[Graham Davies 3]

That's brilliant modelling Andy. Two really good solutions for problems that I have!

 

Do you use screws into those 2 brackets to secure the cowl? Are they countersunk into a plate in the fus to draw the firewalls together?

 

Graham

[Andy48]

Yes I use allen bolts to secure the cowl to the fuselage. You can see a small hole at the side of the fus near the cowl. There are 2 more bolts to secure the fus to the tail section.