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Which Permagrit?


Steve Goodwin
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I shall soon be starting my first plan built model. I have a pretty decent selection of building tools and I would like to invest in a decent sanding block. Obviously there is a massive choice in the permagrit range, but budget restricts to only one item to start with. What is your "go to" profile or shape of tool, and what would be your next choice. Or is there another brand / type you could recommend.

Many thanks in advance.

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Steve, of got permagrit tools , and very good they are. But I also have a big selection of wood blocks, lollipop stick, dowel, and a big roll of self adhesive sanding paper. Don’t forget, there are cheap ways forward, at little cost in time, until you find your feet, and can answer your own query.

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1 hour ago, EvilC57 said:

Well I have two Permagrit sanding blocks, a Sanding Block, and a Wedge Block . The one I use by far the most is the wedge block, as it’s useful for sanding things at 45 degrees, and unlike the normal sanding block, the cutting surfaces go right up to the end.

I like many of the Permagrit tools, but the one I have used the most is the long, wedge block with coarse/fine grit on the opposite faces; probably followed by the short block. If I had to chose just one, I would go for the long wedge block. (Might as well get the wedge block; I don't see any advantages in the one without the wedge.)

 

For special applications, I make my own sanders by gluing sandpaper onto strips of wood or cardboard tubes, etc

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The really big advantage of Permagrit is that it seems to produce less dust = probably it cuts larger bits off or perhaps it's because you don't need to frantically run it back and forth like glasspaper causing dust to fly everywhere.

Without any doubt the wedge block is the most used in my workshop.  Double sided coarse and fine.   Note that it's not used for sanding things to 45 degrees as perhaps  implied in an earlier post.  It sands at right angles or whatever angle you tilt it to.  It's just the 45 degree cut off at ends allows you to get right into corners.  Possibly you could run the 45 degree end along the bench and produce a 45 degree bevel now I come to think about it....but I have never tried that.   Of course it has many household uses when sanding into corners on window frames etc etc.  This means it comes out of the household budget not modelling budget!

Note that the grout rake cuts slots ( 3mm I think ) and of course that comes out of the household budget too.    Frankly I found the spar slotters not worth the investment

Edited by kc
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Correction, my mistake.     The Large Grout Rake cuts a 1/16th inch (about 1.5mm ) slot in wood up to about 7mm deep.  So its well worth having at about 4 pounds for slots in balsa or ply or for cleaning up any larger slots too.  

Permagrit is a little better than the old, now unobtainable, Sandvik Sandplates which will still work well if you have any.  Worn out Sandvik could have the abrasive replaced by Permagrit Flexible Abrasive Sheet.    It's actually the handles on Sandvik that make them so useful - holding the tool firmly helps a lot in accurate shaping.    The Permagrit blocks have enough metal for your hands to grip too.

 

Multiple hacksaw blades can be bolted or taped together to make slot cutters too if you want to save the cost of spar slotters.

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12 hours ago, kc said:

 Frankly I found the spar slotters not worth the investment

Interesting - I've found them incredibly useful.  Not just for slotting, where they produce accurate parallel sided slots for excellent fits but also for those awkward hard to get at areas when fitting details like retracts and control rods.  If you're building from kits or laser cut packs they may be less useful but plan/scratch building is sooo much easier with them.

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^^^^^What he said^^^^^ ?

I'd previously used two or three broken hacksaw blade fragments taped together as a spar slotter, but the Permagrit slotter is a lovely precision tool which guarantees repeatable slots in wing ribs and suchlike. I only get to use it once in a blue moon, such are my current modelling practices, but I appreciate the quality of the tool and I'm sure it will last a lifetime.

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Permagrit tools aren't inexpensive, but the set I bought at Sandown including a large sanding block, is still going strong after over 30 years of use. Unfortunately I've used one or two of the tools for non-modelling jobs and they are showing signs of wear but not at all beyond usefulness. My other half got me another set as a present a few years back and these do remain for modelling only.

I've messed about with sandpaper, home made blocks and slotting tools in the past but if you can treat yourself to a set  of Permagrits and especially if you do a lot of building, it'll be money well spent. I'm not very artistic and carving and shaping blocks to fairly complex shapes and profiles was always a hit and miss affair with trad sanding blocks, knives  etc for me. A set of Permagrits with a variety of profiles has improved my limited capability in the shaping department, that I sometimes surprise myself at how reasonably well parts turn out now.

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Another vote for the long 'wedge' sanding block.  That and its shorter sibling are my most often used sanding tools.  I don't have a spar slotter (yet...) but even for laser-cut slots in kits, it would be handy for cleaning out 'burn', prior to gluing.

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It seems that most of us aeromodellers like the wedge block best, and it's interesting to note that the lady who is usually on the stand at model shows ( called Tracey I think ) told me a few years ago that she invented the wedge block idea herself.   Not that many tools invented by ladies!  I think she said she invented it for DIY work such as preparing windows for repainting etc.   

See the Permagrit website for details of their tools and info about the company.

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Another thumbs up for the wedged sanding block. It is my 'go to' sanding block.

I find my round needle file (rat Tail) most useful as well, not just for the obvious filing but it makes the most perfect drill bit for balsa, liteply and ply. I use it as such in my battery drill very often. It will not splinter the wood on the exit side.

The rotary rod and rotary drum for the 'Dremel' type tool are also used extensively.

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