Need to know what to do next and where I will be going, with Ender 3.

[Erfolg]

This is the radial engine assembled and some paint slapped on.

 

It seems that polystyrene glue melts the std. plastic. Cyno seems to work well. What are others experiences?

 

Also for filling gaps what are others using?

 

Today I have downloaded Fusion 360, via Autodesk. It seems that I am already registered, I assume via Autocad or perhaps Autosketch (which works on nothing now). It was a long winded confusing process for an olden. 

 

Tomorrow I will start the design of a servo cover. Plus watch a few more Videos.

 

I think help is required.

[Martian]

Hi Erfolg 

it seems no one has answered you. So I will try to.

some of this you may know so apologies if preaching to the converted.

PLA is the easiest to print with it is not a plastic as such but is poly lactic acid made from some starchy vegetation  materials mainly Corn after many trails I have found nothing bonds it apart from medium viscosity cyano with an accelerant spray is best and not much is needed. Fillig imperfections if needed is best done with layers of spray putty and sanded down between layers ( it is a laborious job) It is important to fine tune your printing to get absolutely best finish. Slow print speed is best around 80% ,hope this helps  

[Erfolg]

Thanks for the reply Martian. The confirmation that both Cyno and accelerator is the most effective adhesive system is most useful to know, ir saves those of us learning a lot of trial and error experimentation time and potentially damaged items. 

 

Gap filling can be an issue, particularly where separate items are joined an example are the cylinders to the crankcase.

 

So far my progress with Fusion has been frustrating, I manged a basic plate with round ends an a straight forward extrusion. What I have failed at is moving the slot and also deleting the item. I am now going back to the tutorial videos, knowing a little more than previously, plus one idea as to what is should be doing, we will see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Martian]

Hi Erfolg the best to use for filling gaps is a plastic filler called plastic by revell it is polystyrene based use small amounts use a sharpened stick chisel shaped layer up as needed. I have to admit age isn't kind when learning new software best to keep repeating and repeating creating the same thing until you no longer need to refer to guides then progress to something else good luck

[Martian]

should read PLASTO by Revell

[Simon Chaddock]

Sorry Erfolg for the slow answer.

Where I have to stick printed bits together I actually use UHU POR. It sticks PLA well particularly if you give the glue films a minute to dry so using it as a contact adhesive. More important POR take a long time (weeks) before it goes 'brittle' hard so gives plenty of time to adjust or even redo things as required. It also as a degree of filling ability to account for surface imperfections.

Of course if you CAD design your radial engine you can arrange things to fit, like making the crankcase of a nine cylinder a nonagon. ?

The other trick is to break complex things down into 'simple to print' parts.

What in effect you end up with is a plastic kit!

There are no less than 67 bits in this scale ASh-62 that goes into my Depron An2.

 

No painting required either. Parts are printed in silver or black as required.

 

I hate to think how many hours I spent designing, printing, reprinting and assembling it. Of course much of the detail is hidden in the cowling but I have the satisfaction of knowing it is there!

I use FREECAD simply because it is free and CURA as the slicer as it was included with my printer.

Not all CAD packages work the same way but my advice is stick with whatever you have as it takes time to properly understand what it can and cannot do and then even longer to develop 'work rounds' to overcome its short comings.

Understanding the techniques and limitations of 3D printing are about as involved as learning CAD. ? You just have to keep at it.   

    

Edited September 11, 2021 by Simon Chaddock

[Erfolg]

I am back again.

 

I have installed Fusion 360 as previously written. 

The first item I decided to design is a Servo Mount Plate for a wing. It has taken a long time to actually design one. This was a consequence of not knowing what I am doing. I have repeatably been watching videos of doing many things on Fusion. The problem has been some very simple, apparently, actions, have defeated me when attempting to replicate them.

 

Even after achieving a result/action, when I have wanted to make some minor amendment, I have more often then  struggled. So still do not really know what i am doing. Even repeating an action, does not seem consistent when I sometimes try

 

My new questions are.

1. I guess all the slicing is best done with the Cura, not the option which appears to be available with Fusion.
2. I guess I export the Fusion design into a folder on my PC. I am now so befuddled, i cannot remember what the extension is called/is.
3. How do I delete a design file in Fusion, to free up a space in the 10 designs permitted?
4. Before I do these things, I want to mirror/reflect my design, to create a handed version, for the opposite wing in a two servo wing design.

[leccyflyer]

1. Yes, you do all the slicing in Cura.

2.The most typical model file is an .STL file, though there are other formats.

3. I don't use Fusion so can't help there, sorry.

4. You can mirror your design in Cura easily enough, Just click on the object, then on the Mirror button (circled in yellow)  -which expands into three buttons for a mirror in X, Y or Z - pick which mirror you want and hit the button. 

 

Then save as a new file name, say something like servocoverl.stl and servocoverr.stl.

 

 

 

[Erfolg]

I think you have answered a question I have been wrestling with, the more i think.

 

Is it best to create two entities for a single print session. Or perhaps two files as separate entities. The total print time will be as near as dam it identical. Although producing two at once means a little less cleaning up.

 

I have been advised that Isopropyl is better than the meths i have been using. Does anyone else have any thoughts?

[leccyflyer]

I tend to create several files, in different scales and sometimes, in different orientations, when experimenting with a print.

It's just a matter of having a naming convention, so that you know which is which. It helps to put the differentiator at the beginning of the file name, because the LCD display on the printer has a limit on the number of characters. So if you are printing say two different scale pilots then it's better to put 40mmspitfirepilot.gcode and 45mmspitfirepilot.gcode rather than spitfirepilot40mm.gcode and spitfirepilot45mm.gcode. ?

 

I printed some spats last week and trying to print them flat they failed abysmally. Printing them upright worked beautifully. I didn't save those as different files, I overwrote the original files - I do have different aspect ratio versions though, with different names reflecting their dimensions, since the originals ones are very chunky and these ones are rather slender.

 

[Ron Gray]

For handed objects I use the slicing software to mirror then print both hands at the same time. That way I only have 1 file for the object.

For scaling I have 1 file and again use the slicing software to rescale, adjusting the X,Y and Z axis’ scales as appropriate.

Use Isopropyl to clean the bed.

[leccyflyer]

Yes, Isopropanol to clean off any residual hairspray from the build bed. I find it leaves the bed slightly sticky until it evaporates off, but I guess that's not a bad thing. The magnetic build bed on the Ender is a boon - no more messing with those squares of blue adhesive tape.

 

I still tend to mostly print one item at a time -a legacy from the Malyan M150 when some early attempts at multi part printing resulted in one of the items being displaced during printing and coming back to the convoluted knot of angel's hair spaghetti and a ruined set of prints. I think the Ender 5 will be better behaved.

[Erfolg]

I have now completed m first design and print.

What a pity the dimensions are wrong , with respect to mounting the servo, also the surface finish is pants. The slicer decided on 0.4, this seems to large from memory, compared to the other prints.

The new challenge is to modify the Fusion 360 model, as i have no idea of how to do it.

Plus I need to clear out my abortive designs from the Fusion file (of 10 permitted files).

Still a lot to learn, not as easy and obvious or apparently flexible as Autocad.

 

Picture below

[Ron Gray]

You only need to make your Fusion 360 files read only, you do not need to delete them.

[Erfolg]

Many thanks for all the continued support.

 

I have to admit that Fusion is a bit more of a challenge than I envisaged. I think the biggest immediate mistake was to use the centre rectangle tool twice. Then I tried to move one of the rect. only to struggle for a long, numerous occasions. I assume the problem was/is that both rect. were restrained on the same restraint.

 

My other problem is that I was (I think/thought) told to dimension and modify after extruding. I now dimension from Sketch and also draw as much as possible in 2d format. Then undertake extrusions. I have altered dimensions by going back to the sketch history. I have found no other way at the latest current version. Are there other ways?

 

My current issues revolve around the Ender  To improve the surface finish I have reduced the filament size setting in Cura from default 0.4 to 0.3, also reduced spacing down. Still not great but better. I am thinking of now trying what appears to be the most accurate setting. What are the opinions of settings on the Cura?

 

The adhesion to the base plate not as secure as earlier. Part of the issue appears to be shrinkage of the plate. This has set me thinking, what is the purpose of "Hair Spay" as some appear to use. What is Hair Spray, is it Lacquer?

 

I have found that both Isopropyl and Meths are both alcohols. Apparently Isopropyl is alcohol, with 20-30% water added, sold also as Surgical Spirit. In the case of Meths is Alcohol with the addition of Methanol(an alcohol, to make poisonous, remaining as 100% alcohol, also sold as De-natured Alcohol. I will buy Isopropyl, as I am not keen on the smell of Meths, and my bottle is now pretty low. What are your opinions?

 

Any way, I now have made some progress, although remaining a long way from average competence. As is often said "Ubung macht die Meister".

 

Please keep advising.

 

[Simon Chaddock]

Erfolg

The surface finish is largely a product of the nozzle diameter, bead width and layer height on vertical surfaces o the same with the line width on a horizontal surface.

I presume you have a 0.4 mm nozzle so a line width of 0.3 mm should have a layer height of 0.15 mm. If time is not an issue go to 0.1 layer height. These are setting I use most of the time.

I assume you are using a heated bed as this delays the initial layer contraction until the print is complete but to help with bed adhesion the initial layer height should 0.2 assuming you have an actual  initial nozzle to bed clearance of 0.1 (the thickness of laser printer paper) equally all over the bed. This setting means the initial bead layer will be slightly 'squished' onto the bed to help with adhesion. 

 

Hair spray sticks to the bed well and under the temperature of the 'liquid' PLA the surface of the hair spay softens and sticks to the bead as they both cool down.

In my experience there is magic all encompassing solution but each different print can benefit from a slight 'adjustment' to the standard settings.

I don't use Fusion so I can't help with that.

[Erfolg]

My endeavours and experiences has thrown up yet mote questions.

 

The nozzle size is .4mm, I have been using is 1.75mm filament, I guess this is standard.

I have found that the use of Meths immediately before printing increases the adhesion, to the point that getting the print of, can be a challenge.

 

I am still struggling with the design of items using Fusion 360, I eventually get there, generally faster, working out what works and how to do things. Yes there are a mryid of videos oit there, and I have watched many. Although never a Autocad draughtsman/technician, i have used it very successfully at home for the design of a number of extensions for my family. I did attend a course (5 days from memory), where the most useful information was "a strategy" that made use of the software. Essentially this was using offsetting lines, then trimming to shape, much of the detailing done as finishing.

 

As with our modelling all is done at full size. What I do not know is a strategy for "Fusion 360". I once attended a course on something called PDMS (again 5 days from memory". We were taught a strategy, on the clunky 3 modelling tool. Fusion is a very different concept, being based on primitives, extrusions and Boolean operations. Against wire frame of PDMS.

 

I cannot but think, that some one like Simon and probably a number of others, could write a article for RCM&E on the strategies and how to use them. This would not be about how to carry out the physical operations. It would be about concepts and how software uses the ideas. The one general idea is the world co-ordinates and how it can be very useful or sometimes essential for complex modelling.

 

There are a number of items I would like to share that I have drawn and made, for my specific use, to those who know, dead easy, for me a lot of fuzzy learning, when the pictures are available      i will share. Then you will see how much more I have to learn.

 

[Erfolg]

Another Cura question.

 

I did manage to print the servo covers with what I think are called a skirt, an additional area of print outside of the print, which is easily removed later, whilst providing support helping adhesion. There is a problem in that i do not know how i selected this option.

The issue now is I am trying to print a print with very little faceplate contact area, where the print is tending to lift. Not knowing what the option is called is at best a nuisance, in reality is preventing a successful print.

 

Please tell this Drrrr brain what I need to know☺️

[Ron Gray]

Try looking for 'supports'.

[Dad_flyer]

It is called "brim". It should be under build plate adhesion in Cura.

Edited September 30, 2021 by Dad_flyer
Spelling

[Ron Gray]

A picture's worth a thousand words etc etc etc:

 

 

Even better with some movement

 

Edited September 30, 2021 by Ron Gray

[Erfolg]

Well, I am still learning big time.

I have tried Brim settings on a wing servo plate (opp. hand0 that i have deigned and then made. My brim did not apply as per the pictures.?

 

I have tried the "Hair Lacquer" route, which does not work for me. The adhesion is very poor. Applied wet, allowed to dry or just damp.?

 

More positively, I am slowly improving my design knowledge with "Fusion". I now sketch, extrude, then sketch and extrude and so on. How do others undertake the designs?

 

Any way a few pictures to show a motor mount I have designed and printed, what had gone wrong. Plus roughing up the bed inproved adhesion. What else can I do that is a little better? A different Brand?

 

 

[leccyflyer]

I wonder whether roughing up the bed will make for an uneven first layer - whereas you're aiming at getting a uniform all important first layer. If it's uneven, there is a likelihood that it might lose adhesion and let go, later in the print.

[Dad_flyer]

Brim is important for two reasons. The first is to make a bigger area that has more opportunity to stick to the bed. The second, less obvious, is to round off sharp corners. For example, your motor mount is quit large, and one would expect that there is plenty of area to stick. However sharp corners pull up harder when they contract a little as the printed material cools. Adding a brim will help, or alternatively rounding the corners of the part when you design it. Some parts designed for 3D printing will be rounded in the base layer and transition to a sharp square outline in the first few mm.

[adrian garnham]

I use this print bed on my ender 3

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QL4WC4D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

No adhesive, roughening, hairspray or glue stick required.

Just make sure your bed is level and get the nozzle as close to the bed as possible without touching. Also clean the bed with Isopryl Alcohol before every print.

You will find the print sticks to bed until the bed has cooled to room temperature and then will just pull off ...