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Sea Fury 77 inch


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Now looking at colour schemes. I bought a rather small plastic kit from SMC to get an idea of rivet lines. It promised four schemes but Cuban, Aussie or German were not my cup of tea. I would prefer a standard British naval one, maybe with invasion type stripes but the basic colours are extra dark sea grey and sky. The only place I have found doing these is Fighter Aces but at at least £50 for the basic ones is a bit ott, albeit good paint. Any ideas where I can buy some tins of enamel sufficiently large enough to do this at a more reasonable price? Guild don`t seem to do them.

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What do you call heavier duty? I have ordered the 125s which will be a direct replacement for the ones in my Chippy and way powerful enough at one per aileron.

 

I currently have Kst DS 145’s that are 5kg output, so less powerful than the 125’s you have sourced for a good price. I bought a pair of KST x10’s on BMFA classified that are up to 10kg on higher voltages. Haven’t decided yet if I am going to run a pair of lipos or a pair of life batteries. 

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Quite a bit more progress. With the fus 2/3 glassed I decided to leave it for a while and continue with the wing and control surfaces to get them sanded, primed and ready for paint which I have added to the lower surfaces and sanded down with wet and dry. Weight of the wing, ailerons and flaps is now 47oz. Next I think will be the top surface rivets which I shall copy from the plastic kit and pictures. Long job ahead!

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Realised that the full size are actually glossy so now that the decals have been added I decided to do the wing lower surface plus all the bits and pieces with a couple of coats of slightly thinned Sadolin gloss floor varnish (similar to TufKote). Not entirely happy with the result so far because it is the first warbird I have done in gloss so the wing top may be done in Rustins satin first then some gloss over the top which would make that coat much easier to see where I have applied it.

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Just finished the fus glassing and waiting for it to fully harden. The wing is ready, including hinges, to fit the gear bar a final coat of gloss varnish on the top surface. Undecided as yet as to whether a JR Matchbox will be an advantage on the u/c which has three servos but with an extra connector it would simplify adding a separate  battery pack. If I do not use it I can easily make each leg retract retract at a different rate but there are ways round that. Still pondering and messing with the set up.

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Decided to use the Matchbox which is very easy to set up and will sit on top of the wing, plugged into one of a pair of multi connectors.

Still keeping a watchful eye on the weight. The bare painted wing is 3.5 lb and with six MG servos plus retracts and wheels, all linked up and working, less doors, is exactly 5 lb so I am very happy with that, leaving me with 13 lb to play with if a 180 is to power it.

Now for an awful lot of fus sanding.

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I thought that I had the landing gear sorted a long time ago but when I tried it all again I had a wheel jamming on the well so have spent all of today sorting it out. Just some flats to file on the legs and the alloy doors to make and work out how to fit but I shall probably test fly it before then. Some pics of the wing which only requires a final gloss coat on the top surface.

 

 

Sea Fury 77 inch 065.jpg

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I have built four Spits. The first was 44" TN one in which I fitted retracts in a straight position. This did not work out well but with a new wing with the correct rake forward it is very good. On a Spit. you need quite an angle relative to the wing chord centre line so that the sweep back causes them to come as close to the LE as possible in the down position. This is critical and not always easy to attain. Some larger versions need very careful elevator input on take off and if flaps are used it is best to retract them at the moment of touch down or they can tip the model on its nose. The SF has a much lower aspect ratio so I expect it to be OK.

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I am also a Spitfire nutcase, my Marutaka one is my forth, and the wing that I am preparing will be my fifth ,,, you can't have too many Spitfires,,,?

 

 My Marutaka Enya .90 4c needs a slow engine input with full up elevator to get it rolling so that the prop doesn't strike the runway, and taxing is a nightmare,,,

Edited by Paul De Tourtoulon
take off
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Been bashing on with it.

Fus stripes now painted on and the lettering and roundels added ready for the clear lacquer when the canopy and little man have been fitted. The pics show it at its current stage for weighing and a cg check. The tank, batteries and remaining servos have been simply stuffed in the front for this. Motor is angled to make the carb align with the tank centre.

Obviously quite a few bits to add such as linkages but the weight as you see it is 13.5 lb, triple checked, and the cg is currently very slightly in front of the planned position, so quite relieved. If there is enough prop showing it should be no problem for the 180. Hoping for sub 15 lb in the end.?

 

 

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I put a baffle in both my P47 and Sea Fury cowls. 1.5-2mm ply disc with a 2-3mm clearance around the engine and metal strips behind to keep the airflow close to the fins. I haven’t run the twin yet but the 180 in the P47 runs beautifully and certainly doesn’t overheat, even though I spend most of each flight between half and full throttle.

 


image.thumb.jpeg.750e5bcf967e1f7fe65d6a15afc1d221.jpeg

 

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Nick, the front of my cowl is as yet uncut other than the prop driver hole. Being home made it does not have the inward curvature round the spinner. A 5" one arrived from AliExpress yesterday, pointed but all I could get for now. Thinking of cutting a 5" or slightly larger hole to allow airflow but the gap between the backplate and cowl is only 3mm. I am reluctant at the moment to cut a slot in line with the fins because I do not want too much air coming in. Other than exposing the silencer outlet I have not cut it further as yet.

 

Now got the elevators and rudder hinged and tubes to run the pull pull cables through (I know, not very scale). The rud/ele servos will sit above the tank with the main batteries along side them. Unfortunately I mismeasured the tank clearance and am about to lower it. Original idea was to have the batteries either side of the tank but the fit was a bit tight, hence the measurement error.

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