Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 2, 2021 Author Share Posted November 2, 2021 Ok thanks appreciate the explanation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyB Posted November 2, 2021 Share Posted November 2, 2021 1 hour ago, MattyB said: Start with 2:1 aileron diff at minimum; flaps need to be able to go up a few mm for reflex (speed) flight mode and as far down as you can get (at least 45 degrees, ideally 60-70) for crow. This will normally require a horn position offset significantly towards one end of the throw (I.e not perpendicular to the wrong skin). Just for clarification, I am talking about the servo horn here, not the aileron horn - apologies if that wasn’t immediately obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 3, 2021 Author Share Posted November 3, 2021 Gotcha Matty. Fully understand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) Time to get on with the build before I finally set up the working surfaces. The canopy comes in two parts and both need to be trimmed to size. I decided to use canopy glue despite it taking a while to dry. Anyway all taped up a set aside for 24 hours. Edited November 16, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 Bit of a puzzle on the wing tips. The tip has an in-bedded screw in it with one hole while the wing has two holes in it. There is no aligning rod in the kit therefore I had to find some in the spares box and proceeded to push fit the assembly with some help of 5 minute epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) I hot glued the ESC wires to the fuselage for safety. Not very pretty but efficient. I made sure the motor wires were fixed thereby removing the risk of fouling the spinning can. Edited November 16, 2021 by Adrian Smith 1 added text Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 The manual shows a screw fitted to the front of the canopy opening to allow a notch on the actual canopy to catch on to. Not sure I am fond of that idea but I did cyano it in. I won't be able to finish that part until the canopy is dry. I may have to alter the elastic band arrangement on the rear of the canopy to allow for securing. More about that later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 Last observation of the day relates to the butterfly wing bolts. The bolt wings are definitely going to foul on the inner formers. I decided to pick out a couple of M4 hex bolts and use washers to make a better job of it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 All good work Adrian - I admire the mindful way you've gone about this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 Cheers, Jonathan. I am the first to admit I didn't pay top dollar for the kit as it was a first. I therefore expected a few pitfalls and needed to mention them for anybody else whose wants to give it try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 No here's my problem. Looking at the manual the rear fixing of the canopy looks, to say the least, unreliable as the photos depict. That's even if I understood it! I did think I could source a spring hatch latch from my recently smashed up Extra 330SC to see if I could make a better job of it. I think I could fit it to the top of the fuselage in line with the hatch. We'll see .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyB Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) If you can understand those instructions you are doing well! I don't fully, but I agree that method looks unreliable - stick to a simple dowel/springy hook of some type at the front and a decent latch mechanism at the back Definitely ditch the elastic band idea! Edited November 17, 2021 by MattyB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 I used the elastic band retainer on my Pat Teakle HP18 until I lost the canopy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Yes quite, Frank. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 The replacement one was held on by a pin at the front and a couple of strong magnets at the rear. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 18, 2021 Author Share Posted November 18, 2021 I have decided to go the magnet route and found some on Nexus Modelling Supplies. Watch this space ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 I notched the front of canopy in readiness to slot into the fuselage screw. Epoxy on the magnets and after drying tested. Nah! No good the gap between the two magnets too much so wouldn't hold. Grrrrr ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Back square one then. I found a small claw nut and bolt to see if the new plan works. I glued the claw nut to the fuselage and drilled out the canopy to accommodate the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Seems to have done the trick after spending all afternoon on the job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 The job for the next visit is to change the rudder servo arm so that I can have both ends of the control at 5 cms to give a tad more rudder EPA. More about that next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 Rudder servo arm needed to be replaced with larger one to be able to match the space between the rudder horns. I will put some fuel tube keepers on when I have adjusted the EPA on all surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 I decided to see whether the CoG could be sensibly accommodated by moving the battery. Looking at the manual the measurement seems to finish just behind the main spar. Wrong! 65 mm is actually 10mm or so in front of the spar. I decided to balance, as I normally do on the spar and engineer a slight nose down attitude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 Incidently, in fitting the wings, the port wing rear pin didn't quite line up with the fuselage hole. A needle file was required to enlarge it slightly to effect a fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 Next, I fitted out with velcro tape for the lipo location. It can also be seen the reason why I had to used socket head screws rather than the supplied butterfly head bolts. They would have fouled on the fuselage former. I have had to put my thinking cap in to decide where to locate the RX. It will probably be on the port side towards the rear, but I will need to play around with it. The last job later will be to set the EPA on all surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted November 24, 2021 Share Posted November 24, 2021 Adrian, if you could replace the wing retaining bolt with a plastic one that may help in an "arrival" breaking instead of pulling the bolt through the fuselage or the fixing out of the wing root. None of my gliders using a wing retaining bolt, they either use the wing snap locks e.g. Multiplex Multilock or just a rubber band between the wings, these will both give in case you happen to do a one wing low landing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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