Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 After the whole afternoon the only thing I accomplished was to finish and fit the port flap servo. Pretty irritating. Anyway back tomorrow the finish off I hope and complete the modifications. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Gates Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Regarding motors and props, please do not forget that you do not have to use full throttle so you may get by with using a bigger prop on a lower throttle setting. I did use a 12 x 10 folding prop on a small 2822 motor. Way over propped but with it throttle well back it took my 100" glider up easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Thank you for another perspective on how to run it, Andy. Very interesting and very much appreciated.? More than being told I might be doing something wrong and then not suggesting an answer which is be rather frustrating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 On 02/10/2021 at 10:15, Adrian Smith 1 said: I have dug out my wattmeter that was used on my 60cc & 100cc electrics to good effect. I know it's a sledgehammer to crack a nut at 180amp rating, but hopefully it will do. I have got to re-solder the connectors on it to match the ESC and lipos of course... No need to change the main connectors - just make up a pair of conversion leads: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 4, 2021 Author Share Posted October 4, 2021 Yup Jonathan I think you are right. Probably easier> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 Managed to finish one wing and thread the servo wires through. I've illustrated here the measure of woodwork required to fit the servos using small blocks to raise the servo level. I therefore have a made start of the second wing more to do though. One thing, off at a tangent, the motor fitting looks to be fun by way of a tight fit. I also think I will be needing some longer screws to attach the motor through the thickish motor wall. Where is the best place to look for those do you reckon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan M Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 https://www.modelfixings.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 I think I have found what I am after from modelfixings, Jonathan. Thank's for reminding me. I did speak to Gliders UK about fitting the motor as it looks to be a challenge with my "fat fingers". The guy said it's doable using the recommended motor that I purchased ...... Hmmmmm we will see. I will post some photos of the scope of the job when I go back up the work shop. I know some ARTF gliders you are able to temporarily remove (screwed in) the battery, etc tray to allow access to the front of the fuselage. Mine is not one of those as it's glued in therefore not an option to remove. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Adrian, not sure on the access on this one, but in other tight installations I've used a threaded rod, screwed into one of the mounting holes on the motor, pull the motor into place, then put a couple of the mounting screws in and remove the threaded rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 Thanks. Sounds like a plan, Frank. I was toying with the idea of using a longish bolt - that is assuming I can find the right size in my box. Failing that I am sure I can source some threaded rod as you suggest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 Threaded rod in various lengths and threads available from https://www.modelfixings.co.uk/metric_studding.htm I use a length of the 3mm rod to help install motors in slim glider noses as described by Frank. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 7, 2021 Author Share Posted October 7, 2021 Yes Dickw thank goodness for that company - they reach places that no other company does!! Cheers 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 Having reached the flying field I managed about two flights before the murk came down again, therefore nothing for it other than to retire to the work shop. I decided before completing the starboard wing I would see wha could be done with the motor. No point putting off a fiddly job. The motor wall is drilled out to accept 2.5cms +/- bolt centres on a chosen motor. As can be seen not a lot of space. I found a long enough M3 bolt as a guiding rod. I decided to make the ESC / motor connections first as I didn't think it would very easy after bolting the motor in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 After much fiddling about I couldn't line the 4 motor bolt holes up. Out it all came to have a look. Well the bolt holes are set two at 2.5 cm centres and two at 2 cms !! No wonder I was having a problem. The fix for this was to open up and elongate the width of two of the motor holes with a needle file so that 2 cms centres could be accommodated. The most convenient way to position the ESC wires was to under feed then below the motor. I will have to stick some duct tape on the wires to ensured they don't foul on the rotating motor. I decided align the motor up using 4 long M3 bolts and take them out one by one when I screw in the motor bolts. As the motor casing seems to be metal I guess using blue thread locker should fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 The M3 motor bolts I will use are about 5-6mm in length which should be short/long enough to fit the motor to the wall. I will use some small washers on each bolt if they need to be pulled out slightly. I just want to make sure the bolts when fitted do not go anywhere near the windings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted October 8, 2021 Share Posted October 8, 2021 Adrian, have you made sure the motor is rotating in the correct direction ? I wouldn't bother with thread lock as there's should not be any vibration from the motor, prop or spinner (if there is you'll need to eliminate it), however I would fit washers to guard against the bulkhead wood crushing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 8, 2021 Author Share Posted October 8, 2021 Fortunately, PatMc I have a dedicated programming card for the Overlander ESC which I know works and has a reverse rotation setting. Therefore I shouldn't need to get to the wires again soon. So yes I will have to check the rotation. Belt and braces for me as I have some M3 shake proof washers, but I take your point. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Copping Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 If you can get in there, I use a dab of hot glue on the motor wires to keep them clear of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 Aha! I knew I could find a use for my hot glue gun that has sat in a draw for yonks. Thanks Geoff, I will give it a go and report back. Something that crossed my mind having been used to big electrics is there are no ventilation provisions in the nose of the glider. I am not sure how crucial that is in something of this size/power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted October 9, 2021 Share Posted October 9, 2021 Well you don't want the motor to overheat, but motors in gliders are often run for short periods to gain height then shut down for lengthy periods while gliding. This heating-cooling cycle is often good enough, but a temperature check after short climbs during an initial few flights should help confirm this. It is also a good opportunity to check battery consumption and figure out likely motor/flight times. Dick 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 9, 2021 Author Share Posted October 9, 2021 ? Good advice DickW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 I managed today to fit my chosen screws to the motor, align and tighten. Next I thought I would run the motor to check the direction. To do this I put some coloured tape on the shaft so I could see it. As I am using a Futaba TX the throttle channel has to be reversed for the throttle to work in the right sense. Using the ESC tones I then calibrated the throttle stick range and tested. All good with only the motor direction needing to be reversed using the programming card. I have some spares prop blades of 10x8 and 10x6 along with the folding prop which is 11x7. Interestingly the spec on the model's box shows as required a 4S 2200 mAh Lipo, 11x7 folding prop and a 40amp esc, which goes against some opinions on here. Anyway I will test the set up with my ammeter using the different props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 12, 2021 Author Share Posted October 12, 2021 Next I decided to finish off the servo housings on the other wing. I have had to add some balsa pillars using triangular stock soaked in CA to align the hatch screws into some fixed material. Both wings broadly completed with just some servo wire feeding through to be done on one wing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Smith 1 Posted October 14, 2021 Author Share Posted October 14, 2021 First of a few dumb questions ...... what is the safest/easiest way to install the folding propellor (as above) on the motor shaft? I guess I have to take the prop assembly apart? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted October 14, 2021 Share Posted October 14, 2021 Yes, if it is the prop assembly I think it is (see photo) you need to remove the spinner, put the correct size insert on to your motor shaft, slide the prop assembly over that insert and tighten up the nut. If it is not that prop then a photo of the inside of the spinner would help. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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