Jump to content

Switching to electric gliders from fixed wing large scale electrics


Recommended Posts

1 hour ago, MattyB said:

Start with 2:1 aileron diff at minimum; flaps need to be able to go up a few mm for reflex (speed) flight mode and as far down as you can get (at least 45 degrees, ideally 60-70) for crow. This will normally require a horn position offset significantly towards one end of the throw (I.e not perpendicular to the wrong skin).


Just for clarification, I am talking about the servo horn here, not the aileron horn - apologies if that wasn’t immediately obvious.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The manual shows a screw fitted to the front of the canopy opening to allow a notch on the actual canopy to catch on to. Not sure I am fond of that idea but I did cyano it in. I won't be able to finish that part until the canopy is dry. I may have to alter the elastic band arrangement on the rear of the canopy to allow for securing. More about that later!

IMG_0434.jpg

IMG_0435.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No here's my problem. Looking at the manual the rear fixing of the canopy looks, to say the least, unreliable as the photos depict. That's even if I understood it!

 

I did think I could source a spring hatch latch from my recently smashed up Extra 330SC to see if I could make a better job of it. I think I could fit it to the top of the fuselage in line with the hatch. We'll see ....

 

 

IMG_0437.jpg

IMG_0438.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you can understand those instructions you are doing well! I don't fully, but I agree that method looks unreliable - stick to a simple dowel/springy hook of some type at the front and a decent latch mechanism at the back Definitely ditch the elastic band idea!

Edited by MattyB
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I decided to see whether the CoG could be sensibly accommodated by moving the battery. Looking at the manual the measurement seems to finish just behind the main spar. Wrong! 65 mm is actually 10mm or so in front of the spar. I decided to balance, as I normally do on the spar and engineer a slight nose down attitude.

IMG_0452.jpg

IMG_0457.jpg

IMG_0456.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Next, I fitted out with velcro tape for the lipo location. It can also be seen the reason why I had to used socket head screws rather than the supplied butterfly head bolts. They would have fouled on the fuselage former. I have had to put my thinking cap in to decide where to locate the RX. It will probably be on the port side towards the rear, but I will need to play around with it. The last job later will be to set the EPA on all surfaces.

IMG_0459.jpg

IMG_0458.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Adrian, if you could replace the wing retaining bolt with a plastic one that may help in an "arrival" breaking instead of pulling the bolt through the fuselage or the fixing out of the wing root. 

None of my gliders using a wing retaining bolt, they either use the wing snap locks e.g. Multiplex Multilock or just a rubber band between the wings, these will both give in case you happen to do a one wing low landing.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...