Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Hello all, this will be my first ever RC build, so please be patient. I have the short kit from Sarik Hobbies and so far the quality looks good. Having read many build blogs, I have confidence that as long as I take my time, I should get there with help of course! Started the build this morning fitting the ply doublers to the fuselage sides with Impact adhesive, the cut parts require 2x 3mm F1’s to be laminated, no problem, but I have come across my first question, when placing the fus sides on the plan and align F1, the fus sides appear to be too short? I’m guessing that this should not matter too much, but I don’t like guessing ?should I move the fus sides back so the tail feathers will be in the correct position and adjust the cowl to suit, or the other way around? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 Not sure the “correct “ way of plan building, but it quickly occurred to me that when placing the fuselage sides on the plan, you cover all the information ?, this was “my” solution masking tape with the positions marked with a 6” metal rule and a fine point Sharpie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 (edited) 36 minutes ago, Steve Goodwin said: the fus sides appear to be too short? Yes mine too. It's the plan print is not quite to scale. Work from the front, as you are doing nothing needs changing as it is the plan that not the parts. 30 minutes ago, Steve Goodwin said: when placing the fuselage sides on the plan, you cover all the information That is true, the way I do it is to mark the former positions on the fuselage sides then I do not need to build over the plan. Also only the formers that are at right angles can be fitted with one fuselage side laid flat. I will check. That looks like F1 to F5. Edited August 31, 2021 by EarlyBird Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Are you building from a supplied plan or using a magazine plan with the kit? I found that a magazine plan for the Tony Nijhuis Mosquito was quite different from the pukka plan supplied with a kit of laser cut parts. It’s really something to query with the supplier if this isn’t the answer - in theory the CNC files used for cutting should align properly with the plan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Steve, as you can see the laser cut parts have nibs that need sanding off and also the black burnt wood needs removing, Peter pointed this out to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Martin, I assume it's the Sarik plan as mine was the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 11 minutes ago, EarlyBird said: Also only the formers that are at right angles can be fitted with one fuselage side laid flat. Thanks EB, really, why? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 Hi Martin, Yes as EB said the Sarik plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Just now, Steve Goodwin said: Thanks EB, really, why? Because they are the only ones at right angles to both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 I started with F1, F2, F6 and F7 glued at right angles to the one side. Then when dried I placed the second side on top glued and weighted down. When died this is lifted off the board and the tail pulled together and the smaller formers fitted. By marking the former position on the inside of both sides you know where they fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 A picture. Not the ballerina but shows the sides marked up and how I hold the former in place while the glue dries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 (edited) If you also mark the center of the 90' formers, then if you don't have building jig you can draw a straight line, line them up and the tail to prevent a banana. Edited August 31, 2021 by Ace 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Another picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Just noticed on this build I also added narrow 'guide rails' to locate the formers, not necessary but helps if you have shaky hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 20 minutes ago, EarlyBird said: Because they are the only ones at right angles to both sides. I must be overthinking this ( this often happens, so my apologies in advance) I assumed that all the formers would be a right angles to both sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 More questions. Is this going to be electric? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 2 minutes ago, EarlyBird said: Is this going to be electric? Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 1 minute ago, Steve Goodwin said: I assumed that all the formers would be a right angles to both sides? You would not be the first and probably not the last to glue all the formers on one side at right angles. ? But now you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Just now, Steve Goodwin said: Yes Before you glue F1 and F2 they need modifying for ventilation and battery tray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 This is how i did it on the RF-4 Cut a hole in F1 for the battery and build a box for the motor mount. The ESC is located under the battery tray. Just giving you food for thought. ? There are other ways. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 I am going to use standoffs with blind nuts epoxied into F1, I figured this would be more secure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Goodwin Posted August 31, 2021 Author Share Posted August 31, 2021 1 hour ago, EarlyBird said: Before you glue F1 and F2 they need modifying for ventilation and battery tray. Thanks for the heads up EB, I’m stuck without glueing anything right now, waiting for some more bits and bobs to arrive. We do have a large enough cut out in F2 for the battery, agreed something to secure the battery is required, I’ll have to have think about ventilation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 Oh yes F2 has the hole for the tank. Peter helped me with this ventilation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 With regard to the formers at right angles. I lay one side down,glue on the formers and leave to dry. Then add the second side. You assemble the two fuselage sides with the formers that are the same width, i.e. back as far as F-5 when dry pull in the sides at the rear and add the remaining formers on the marks on each side/ For the battery mount etc have a look at the plan shown in the Hound Dog build Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Steve Goodwin said: I am going to use standoffs with blind nuts epoxied into F1, I figured this would be more secure Lucas did it that way. On 30/03/2016 at 08:25, Lucas Hofman said: This is the first wooden cowl I make (actually the first cowl at all). Difficult to get anything positioned between spinner ring and firewall, so I stopped when the first bit was in place: /sites/3/images/member_albums/110405/664449.jpg When this is dry I have something more solid to position the sides on. It worked well. He addressed the issue of the model being tail heavy by having built up tail surfaces along with lightening holes all over. I did not use standoffs, I built a box, and used solid tail surfaces my solution for tail heavy was to use a 4S 4000 battery and 40g of lead in the cowl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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