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HK Shrink Film Covering Technique


Andy J
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About to cover the rear section (spar to TE) of a Playboy Senior wing with a translucent shrink film from HK which I know does not stick well from past use. Leading edge back to the spar will be covered with a solid colour. Am I better applying the translucent covering all the way from the TE to the LE or wrap the surplus covering around the main spar to ensure a solid surface on which to apply the second forward section solid colour. Wing has a slight under camber so intend to apply the underside covering in one piece all the way to the tip whilst the top covering will be applied in two sections given the wing has a poly dihedral.

DSC01362.JPG

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2 hours ago, Andy Joyce said:

with a translucent shrink film from HK which I know does not stick well from past use

I've not had any problems with the HK films but I do try to have at least 1cm of overlap on the joins.  I'd just take it to the spar, wrapping it around won't do any harm, but I'd take the front film back far enough to get that 1cm overlap.

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Thanks Bob. Will apply balsalock to the joint overlaps just to be sure it sticks anyway.

 

Unsure if also best to overlap the TE on the underside covering such that the covering wraps around the full 1 inch of the balsa TE top and bottom (if that makes sense). Would not normally do such a large overlap that but as I say it did not stick well on a glider I covered recently.  Perhaps I used too heat last time as found that HK solid orange sticks well at 100 deg C.

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56 minutes ago, Andy Joyce said:

Will apply balsalock to the joint overlaps just to be sure it sticks anyway.

 

I think prymol was the stuff that aided film overlaps? it etched the film surface.

 

is also very useful for getting silicon goop to stick to film in wing saddles, for instance.

 

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1 hour ago, Andy Joyce said:

Unsure if also best to overlap the TE on the underside covering such that the covering wraps around the full 1 inch of the balsa TE top and bottom

I wouldn't as it will give a dark outline with translucent films.  If you doubt the film's grip on balsa you could paint the balsa tips, spar and t/e with Covergrip or similar.

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I used Prymol a few months ago to prep my Kyosho Spitfire refurb for painting. It did a good job on what I suspect is probably Solarfilm and the B&Q acrylic has adhered pretty well. I removed a couple of patches of the underwing covering to fit radiator and air cooler and that film had that slightly rubbery cheap plastic texture of Solarfilm.

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14 hours ago, Nigel R said:

 

I think prymol was the stuff that aided film overlaps? it etched the film surface.

 

is also very useful for getting silicon goop to stick to film in wing saddles, for instance.

 

Dont

 

14 hours ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said:

Prymols not a product that flew off the shelves, try a few shops they may have some.

Weston UK have a tin on the shelf when I visited last week.

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Please ignore the "Dont " in my previous post 

I cant explain how it got there as was just mentioning that Weston UK has a tin on the shelf . 

While i'm back Prymol really only worked with the old solarfilm made from polyprpeleyne . It was very good at making  overlaps adhesion  stronger  and for aiding the adhesion of their paints to the film .

 It doesn't work with polyester products . Dont know about other plastics .

 

Edited by Engine Doctor
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Yes -it's vastly superior to Solarfilm. Cover grip will certainly work on any overlaps, but I'd advise a test to see how it looks with a transparent film. The overlaps will look darker anyway, due to the double film thickness, but if the Cover Grip dries opaque it might spoil the appearance of the covering job completely.

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