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EarlyBird
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Back on track with F3 glued using a battery to clamp in place at right angles.

 

IMG_20211217_062938.thumb.jpg.0c7f327a477a0a5df98bf007b04eb606.jpg

 

The formers have bits sticking out beyond the ply side plate which is why the wood has been used to lift it all above the worktop. I am thinking ahead with regard to F2 with the U/C attached and I assume a change of method will be required.  The servo tray will be next, to provide bracing.  

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On 16/12/2021 at 07:44, EarlyBird said:

All the formers are ready. Test fitted and doublers added some minor adjustments to accommodate the crutch taper on the F6-F9 will be done as they are individually fitted. 

 

IMG_20211216_072645.thumb.jpg.dbbe24cb989ac75d2af88f0fbe33dd42.jpg

 

Start assembling following the usual method with the formers at right angles to the side plates glued to one side then add the second side on top.

 

 

Will there be scallops on the fuselage... or clams?

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A sticky out bit.

 

IMG_20211217_083958.jpg.4076584c5cc20abeab635f89459229fb.jpg ?

 

Formers added one at a time.

 

F4

 

IMG_20211217_090624.thumb.jpg.ac77374355142bec2ed61c22aa9aa0c7.jpg

 

F2 by overhanging the U/C. 

 

IMG_20211217_101827.thumb.jpg.29ebe1f799770a656d24c3a5f768e496.jpg

 

That's the three parallel formers in place then added the second side plate.

Once dried set it up on the fuselage jig.

 

 IMG_20211217_163706.thumb.jpg.78809c4e26134c430bdf8a10fb14dafb.jpg

 

Leave to completely cure overnight then more formers working towards the tail. ?

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Early start today ?

I decided, in the middle of the night, that the crutch needs to be parallel to the board so that a square can be used to set the formers vertical and hence at right angles to the crutch. After lots of measuring and checking F5 was glued in place.

 

 IMG_20211218_084741.thumb.jpg.a29be8a9752b2eb1f3fa1dea0f47b339.jpg

 

Looks good so far. Fingers crossed as this build method is completely new to me.

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Test fit to check how they all line up.

 

IMG_20211221_090144.thumb.jpg.b59e1eb6e95ebc4d60a5643c6c40f825.jpg

 

and glued and after drying overnight.

 

IMG_20211221_153243.thumb.jpg.25ac2188cd92c499ffd404ed0f61c10f.jpg

 

but on inspection one stringer was not straight. On the Ballerina I had the same and left it bent which I regret every time I see it. Having learned that lesson I now correct any errors when spotted. It took ages to correct but now it's done I am happy. I have made a start on the other side which I will finish tomorrow.?

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and the other side.

 

IMG_20211223_091921.thumb.jpg.6b2cce2507725ef4d7ad6a2ef01f1605.jpg

 

but it's not finished. A decision was required regarding the controls for the elevator and rudder. I had already decided not to go with the internal elevator snake and was undecided on the pull pull rudder. I considered having the elevator servo on the tail but on reflection and as advised, thanks Peter ?, it would not look neat. Still thinking of what to do. In the mean time.

 

IMG_20211223_091958.thumb.jpg.de8ae5326beb9a45cceed5a9a5ac5e71.jpg

 

added parts of the jigsaw that will eventually transform a flat sided box into a beautiful shape. As you can see I haven't worked out the front electric conversion yet which is why I have not followed instructions and completed the planking before the stringers. What I need now is for Santa to bring some 1/8" balsa for the planking, not long to wait. 

 

This is proving to be an interesting rewarding build that I know will result in a model that will look beautiful and fly like it's on rails. ?

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Is this the transfer linkage you use?

Looks a good idea and used with a pushrod ( or a pull rod ) might be much better than snakes.  

On a different model I have just changed an elevator from a front servo with snake to a rear mounted servo - but it now needs an extra 4 ounces of lead up front!   Reason for changing is the trim altered every time presumably because of expansion/contraction of the snake inner due to temperature.

Edited by kc
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50 minutes ago, kc said:

Is this the transfer linkage you use?

Looks a good idea and used with a pushrod ( or a pull rod ) might be much better than snakes.  

On a different model I have just changed an elevator from a front servo with snake to a rear mounted servo - but it now needs an extra 4 ounces of lead up front!   Reason for changing is the trim altered every time presumably because of expansion/contraction of the snake inner due to temperature.

Hi KC,

 

This has been done to death on here, but snakes don't change significantly with temperature provided each end of the outer is securely glued, and the middle is allow to bow. That way the relative length of the inner to outer is unchanged. 

 

Graham

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Graham.

I know this aspect of snakes has been mentioned before.......but my model (a Swamp Rat ) has been built according to the plan with  the snake outers in holes at each former and not just restrained at either end.   The middle cannot bow.    The trim changes each time, while a different model with a pushrod straight to elevator through fuselage centre keeps trim whatever the temperature.

Therefore the transfer linkage appeals although it's got more places where some play could occur and of course more places for failure.   ( 2 extra clevis or Z bends and a pivot point )

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Don't get me wrong KC, I usually prefer pushrods as I find it easier to get the line straight to the hinge. What you have described is common and avoidable. I built lots of models with snakes going though tight holes in formers before I thought about how the snake outers need to move. I'm not a fan of rear mounted servos as I find the installations a bit ugly in many cases, but I can see the benefits. There are very many ways to skin this particular cat, if we're still allowed such analogies!

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On models we have several ways of doing the controls to the tail controls.  They all have their pros and cons and we all have our preferred ways of doing it.

 

Just be thankful that you are not working on the controls on full size aircraft grovelling in confined spaces and struggling to reach parts with one hand let alone two.

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Don't forget that servos used in the F3/F5 community are small, light and very powerful (yes they also cost more!) and I've found them to be great for mounting in the tail of some 'planes. In fact on my BF110 I weighed up the components for options of solid pushrod, snake and servo and the servo was the lightest solution!

 

image.png.fb32073ca77dcef2054d0f110b968aad.png

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