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Rhapsody


EarlyBird
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Snakes have been a problem for me simply because I thought they should be as straight as possible and firmly fixed at every former, I could not have got it more wrong if I tried. Live and learn so now if straight runs are possible then metal pushrods else rear mounted servos if function is all I need and lastly snakes installed properly.

 

Wing seats glued in and first trial fit of more stringers.

 

IMG_20211225_074532.thumb.jpg.0a151cf03769896a1da0655ff8e552b5.jpg

 

what I need now is some 1/8" balsa for the planking.

 

Christmas day and look what I found downstairs. ?

 

IMG_20211225_074110.thumb.jpg.99af18996ca036b3fd8e1a1a6fd19667.jpg

 

I will be disappointed if it's a train set. ?

 

 

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22 hours ago, Peter Miller said:

Are you  going to fill in between the plate and the bottom of the wing?

Yes when I fit the wing, or should I say I will now. ?

 

Planking started.

 

IMG_20211226_185809.thumb.jpg.ec16d34da706ab33e77965411d7613cc.jpg

 

I trial fit a stringer and make the plank to fit the gap. Then glue the plank and stringer and leave to dry. Easier than I thought it would be but I have started on the easiest part. 

What I find interesting is the way the shape is evolving as parts are added.

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Yes Peter I do agree, what has surprised me though is how absorbing I am finding the build.

 

The second side.

 

IMG_20211230_070705.thumb.jpg.aee4249dc676203a6cec3e52c532feb9.jpg

 

I have also been thinking about the changes needed for the electric conversion and the inevitable affect on the nose shape. First the motor mount. I have decided to move F1 forward 40 mm with extensions made up of 1/8" ply sandwiched between 1/32" ply.

 

IMG_20211230_071003.thumb.jpg.caff10d82fa46eda556253784ac02e63.jpg

 

Clamped in place as a first look.

 

IMG_20211230_071224.thumb.jpg.c99b4ff75571668cfc5a20179428fee7.jpg

 

If 40 mm looks too much I have the option of cutting the extensions down or moving F1 back without cutting down. ?

 

The battery tray, ESC and ventilation have yet to be decided on. Unfortunately it's the decision making that take most of the time. ?

 

 

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I love building. I have built quite a lot of models that were not for flying. For example my Dunlop Pitts.  This is 1/12 scale. It is built with a scale frame in brass tube. Scale wing structure and tail structure. Home made fibre glass cowl and spats. Tissue covered and hand painted with home made Dunlop decals.

I actually scratched a living for five years making desk top models mainly of gliders for owners. I even had an agent in the USA.

 

I also love designing although I seem to have burnt out at the moment.

 

You are doing some designing with your modifications to the motor and battery installation.  IT may be hard work but the challenge and sense of achievement makes it well worth while.

Pitts special.jpeg

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It does make it worthwhile Peter. 

 

Having decided to modify F1 it's time to start sawing.

 

IMG_20211231_092111.thumb.jpg.7b8678b2ac13eda5b1d84242a48f3bf3.jpg

 

The shaded parts are to be removed, I learned this in woodwork class too long ago.

Here it is after some changes trial fitted 

 

IMG_20211231_112149.thumb.jpg.fae3a3ace5d6c59cbeba1de4ae3741ed.jpg

 

I have cut the ventilation hole large enough for the ESC to be installed from the front beneath the battery tray.

 

Battery tray design is next. I am thinking of making it to the shape of the nose like this liteply tray with holes and slots.

 

img_20201101_102505179_hdr.jpg

 

More fun to come. ?

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Nose extensions glued in place.

 

IMG_20220101_133335.thumb.jpg.296b414a6800a165cbd7081761cc1d25.jpg

 

While trial fitting F1 I noticed the cabin sides flexing slightly so I added some scrap liteply behind F2

 

IMG_20220101_133425.thumb.jpg.07a201d92a3dc2109bc618aa4bde33ec.jpg

 

and thinking ahead of where the pilot will sit I added a cabin floor.

 

IMG_20220101_133400.thumb.jpg.9c5cafafbb08594f43020921cce31375.jpg

 

and drilled holes for the servo leads.

 

IMG_20220101_133438.thumb.jpg.b6b44c6ee556e930c14796becb69c9be.jpg

 

Too much thinking has given me brain ache ?

 

Next will definitely be the battery tray.

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Just now, Peter Miller said:

Excellent!!

I have learned from The Ohmen ?

 

Talking of which I must open my Christmas present and make sure it's not a train set. Yes The Ohmen experiment is set to continue, with the aim of righting some wrongs.

 

I am also starting to think about Destiny, but not in detail yet.

 

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On 02/01/2022 at 08:59, Peter Miller said:

My Ohmen is looking rather "well worn"  Maybe I should do some refurbishment in this lousy weather.

Yes 'seize the day'

 

All glued up and motor fitted to check the cowl build

 

IMG_20220103_105534.thumb.jpg.3c2b682b0febbb7818fdc23cbd33649e.jpg

 

and ESC installation. ? as usual too much wire. Thinking about how to hold the ESC in place but in a way that it will be easily removable and refitted.

 

IMG_20220103_110203.thumb.jpg.29477525f5226d6bff675afabdfb1baa.jpg

 

Now that the tray is glued in I have had the bright idea of making a hatch that will give access from above, a bit late. I also considered a hatch from below, no way.

 

BTW I have discovered an easier method for adding photos.

 

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After lots of thinking.

 

I filed a slot for the battery wires and added 1/32" ply doubler for strength.

IMG_20220104_073754.thumb.jpg.c191a9a132e9f248a4ea4b5ecb96b292.jpg

 

added scrap sides

IMG_20220104_074438.thumb.jpg.306836c601feb1791e5d25ce123e988f.jpg

 

and a top/bottom to form trunking for the battery strap.

IMG_20220104_081228.thumb.jpg.bc663d29a570edb1acb2045f74da3a5c.jpg

 

with the aid of two cable ties the ESC is held in place.

IMG_20220104_092501.thumb.jpg.d0ba1b1f445dea808da1d52e1e778401.jpg

 

and from the top. The strap fed through easily, I have suffered in the past with ARTF struggling to thread the strap through.

IMG_20220104_092542.thumb.jpg.06a30c50ea435fcc5e20ac75797a67bf.jpg

 

I am assuming the ESC will last longer than the model, if not I will cut a hatch in the battery tray if necessary.

 

I am continuing to think about ventilation for ESC cooling.

 

 

 

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In my opinion:-

For ESC cooling, I would open up the hole the motor wires come though (perhaps following the profile of the lower edge of the former) assuming there will be plenty or air coming into the cowl to find your vent hole.

You will also require a hot air outlet, so maybe leave a gap (about 3/8" 5mm) at the rear of the cover that will fit over the ESC aperture.

Leave the ESC loose, don't strap it down. This will allow cooling air all round the ESC to aid cooling.

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Thanks Andy you have made me think ?

 

But today's task is forming the front. Having added the spinner to work to I have made up the parts and dry fit, no cut parts as I am converting to electric which is one more step to building from a plan, Destiny.

 

IMG_20220105_094848.thumb.jpg.b75035d6792e1cacfea9d03fd6253930.jpg

 

Then glued in place

 

IMG_20220105_113253.thumb.jpg.e5dde9142461530041855c421eafed71.jpg

 

and top fitted.

 

IMG_20220105_144352.thumb.jpg.a65ef79bdba67880cf663e15013367f5.jpg

 

Giving a pleasing curve to the spinner and a start for the planking.

 

Cooling? there are apple cheeks designed to cool the engine which I am thinking could be repurposed. Also there is a gap between the ply sides and 1/8" planking.

The ply sides could have holes drilled to link the ESC chamber to an outlet at the back of the apple cheeks. Neat? Another thought based on the Sea Fury I have seen recently, way beyond my skill set, was to cut vent slots on the sides again utilising the void between ply and planking. Now I have a problem two ideas require a decision to be made, hope no one's in a hurry. ?

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Yes, The apple cheeks will work well.  Just make sure that there is an outlet for the air as well.

 

The conversion for Destiny is easy. The motor is mounted on stand offs on the fire wall.  The battery hatch is simply cut from the existing cowl.  When the time comes I will photograph the the nose modifications.

 

I converted mine very quickly

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