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Switch Wiring


Andy J
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3 minutes ago, Andy Joyce said:

Model uses a 6v 2500maH NiMh battery, so assume there is not a problem if the battery is totally discharged by being left connected for some significant period of time.

 

Maybe a typo Andy

You propose it's ok to leave a pack discharged a significant amount of time?

Batteries that we use have not been made yet that can tolerate discharge for long lengths of time; they just se!f destruct in that state.

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Was aware Lipos are killed by low voltage Denis but thought NiMh was more tolerant to this issue and could be recovered. Given I know the model will be infrequently used suspect it will be better to go down the route of using a hard switch to isolate the receiver supply.

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I would be inclined to use a 2 amp AA eneloop pack for better current delivery assuming your 2500 is an AA. Those mag switches have probably got the lowest residual current drain of any. The same outfit also does a battery backer version.  I use them in my F3f planes as do many others. Plug it in when I put the model together, unplug it when I put the model away. A standard heavy duty switch is going to be more than adequate but do buy a good quality JR or Futaba one.

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What I have been buying for flight packs are these Martin.  Just read up on high capacity NiMh on the Battery University site and I see that high power batteries have a far shorter life which surprised me. Perhaps a different battery technology would be a better purchase in the future, but given I don't like using UBEC's for the receiver supply due to noise insertion from switch mode regulators, there is little choice.

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After experimenting with them on charge/discharge cycles I have found 600mA to be ideal to get full capacity. Too high and they peak/false peak early and too low is not enough for the delta peak to be detected reliably.

Another thing with these so called LSD packs is that one can easily require 150-200 mA/hr after a week or so left fully charged but not used. LiFe take nothing even if not used for a year.

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