Andrew Calcutt Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 I am coming to the point when I need to think about paint and fuel proofer.This will be on tissue over a solid surface,thinking of using humbrol enamel,then ronseal hard glaze clear.I will be using a four stroke engine.Any thoughts on this thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted October 10, 2021 Share Posted October 10, 2021 Once you have committed to an oil based paint then you can't use a two part finish like Rustins plastic coat which is probably the most robust against nitro. It contains solvents which will pucker oil based paints. My preferred paint scheme is to use cellulose of acrylic (car sprays are perfect here.) then spray the 2 part finish. A word of caution here spraying Rustins or the like requires special safety gear to prevent breathing in the aerosolised liquid. It can be brushed with care but it will tend to smear different colours unless the colour coat is allowed to harden for a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 On the Hurricane i just finished i used the chroma enamel fuel proofer in satin. If you use the same make sure you leave it for a good long while before you get it all messy. By long while, i mean at least 2 months. Mine has been sat in the shed for about that time and the heat of the sun warms the shed nicely and helps cook the paint. Even so, in the sun at the field it was still gassing off so dont skimp on the drying time. I did have a fuel leak on the hurricane while i was turning it around after the first flight and it all wiped off with no paint damage. Obviously this is a very short term test but i have used this stuff before and it works well enough. Nothing lasts forever though...apart from the paint ESM used on my LA7. 11 years and not problem at all. I would love to know what it is but i suspect its the sort that would kill you as soon as you open the tin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuban8 Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) AFAIA and from what I've seen of the efforts of club mates, the only really effective fuel proof finish will be a two part epoxy sprayed system. I've toyed with the idea of using that stuff for ages, but the the high initial cost of buying decent equipment and the toxic nature of the chemicals involved has so far put me off. I've gone down the enamel and fuel proofer route and whilst inferior to epoxy, the results are acceptable providing the finish is allowed to really cure as Jon mentions and any residue is immediately wiped away with a detergent mix or a 50/50 dilute solution of water and 'Elbow Grease'. The weak point will be around cut-outs on engine cowlings where I find fuel and exhaust residue tends to collect and run out from inside the engine bay and in my experience will inevitably find a way under the edges of proofer and paint. Not the end of the world, but just means a tidy up now and again. Other areas that tend to only get a light coating of crud and are easy to get at for cleaning do tend to stay relatively undamaged providing a strict cleaning regime is followed. Edited October 11, 2021 by Cuban8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 11, 2021 Share Posted October 11, 2021 (edited) Klass Kote epoxy not cheap but is very good. Solarfilm Clearcoat is also very good. the former maybe OTT for the OP. Edited October 11, 2021 by Ron Gray 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 (edited) Just to revive this question abut fuel proofer has anyone tried using 2k lacquer intended for automotive use? This is the 2 pack stuff with an activator in it. I am trying to decide on the paint i should use for my Spitfire XIV and found a company that do custom paints for motorbikes. They offer a 500ml kit of base coat, 2k lacquer and sufficient thinner to do the job for about 40 quid and that seemed like a pretty decent deal. They also offer satin and matt lacquer that might be handy as a clear fuel proofer assuming i can spray them over my usual enamel camo patterns without it all go nasty. As the model will have a gloss finish i may just stick with guild enamels as the gloss paints resist fuel very well, but the satin/matt clear has me intrigued for my warbird builds. Edited July 19, 2022 by Jon - Laser Engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 The gloss 2k is more fuel resistant than satin or matt. Make sure any edges or corners get a proper coat as the fuel can attack solvent type base coat and creep lifting laquer. Guess how I know. Don't know if water based basecoat is more resistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Philbrick Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 I've used 2K laquer from riolettcustomaerosols, it is a rattle can which is activated by pulling a pin in the base, the only down size is that it then has shelf life of about 8 hrs although I think this can be increased if stored in the fridge. They also do a wide range of colours also in 2k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted July 19, 2022 Share Posted July 19, 2022 Glenn, I just looked at that website and they have some interesting products. On the optional additives they offer do you know what's meant by "High Resistance"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunnar Borseth Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 2K acrylics usually don’t play nice with enamel paint. If the enamel is old and well cured, it may be ok if you mist on a couple of coats before a flow coat. But you can also end up with a boiling mess. 2K acrylic over enamel primer works fine for some reason… Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 (edited) 6 hours ago, Andy Stephenson said: Glenn, I just looked at that website and they have some interesting products. On the optional additives they offer do you know what's meant by "High Resistance"? Living in France I never heard the term "High Resistance"😅, however i use 2 pot car polyurethane paint, mat, satin and gloss over Humbrol Tamiya and even old household rubbish that I am not even sure of what it is, as long as it has been left a few days and the polyurethane is sprayed on without much thinners and is left to dry / harden in a nice warm place ( like London at 39°c 🥳) it won't attack the paint, and not even 25% will attack it. Edited July 20, 2022 by Paul De Tourtoulon 2 n sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 (edited) Thanks for the input. The stuff i am looking at is from CCR custom paints and on the phone the chap said no thinner is needed to spray it so i might be in with a chance. He very kindly offered to send me a free sample to test so i will get on that as soon as it arrives. If i can spray it over enamel, even if i have to dust it on slowly and then finish with a wetter coat as Gunnar suggests that would still be ok as i sprayed mick reeves mr epoxy clear over enamel in this way and most of the time it worked well. In the case of the spitfire i am not concerned about compatibility as the base coat will be from them as well so it will all play well together. I am curious to know if it is more/less fuel resistant than a true epoxy paint but i would imagine it is more resistant than a standard enamel so should be an upgrade. Edited July 20, 2022 by Jon - Laser Engines Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Been using Sadolin PV7 varnish on last 2 models, Satin finish 2K brushed on . Went on over Guild and Humbrol enamels. Dry in 15 minutes or less depending on temp and so far ok. Left to cure for a couple of weeks and been runnning in a couple of 2st in model no ill effects so far with fuel residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 2k: isocyanites? I'm just scared! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Stephenson Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 (edited) David, You should be, isocyanates can cause permanent lung damage if breathed. It's also essential to avoid eye and skin contact. When spraying I use a full-face carbon-filter spray mask, gloves and a bunny suit and I do it outdoors with the wind behind me. Ideally one should use an air-fed mask. Edited July 20, 2022 by Andy Stephenson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 1 hour ago, David Hazell 1 said: 2k: isocyanites? I'm just scared! i used to pump the stuff into fibre glass furniture moulds when I was 20 + for around 3 years, then pump acetone through the mixing hear to clean it, luckily I am still here,,,🤐 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 4 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: i used to pump the stuff into fibre glass furniture moulds when I was 20 + for around 3 years, then pump acetone through the mixing hear to clean it, luckily I am still here,,,🤐 Yikes!!! Congratulations on dodging that bullet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 Back in the mid eighties the car paint people , I think it was Valspar made a 2k non isocyante acrylic clear . I finished a few cars with it and found it to be excellent. it was very easy to spray polished up like a diamond and was highly fuel resistant . Just done a Google search and similar products are stil available . Cost is around £50 a liter but that should do many models . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 If i need to build a full spray booth then 2k will be a non starter for me. As much as i appreciate the need for some protective equipment i simply do not have the space to create a spray booth environment and have no intention of dressing up in a fancy outfit. If i cant do it in my 8x6 shed then it cant be done. Or, i will have to wing it with the equipment i have. Its not like i will be spraying every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel R Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 7 minutes ago, Jon - Laser Engines said: Or, i will have to wing it very droll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 20, 2022 Share Posted July 20, 2022 48 minutes ago, Nigel R said: very droll Impressive considering it was by accident. Im suffering a distinct sense of humour failure today for completely unrelated reasons. 😠 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Help me out chaps. Am i in isocyanate territory here? My googling has proven inconclusive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Stainforth Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 (edited) This is not CA, which is cyanoacrylate, but it could be an isocyanate. The problem is that this is a vague, abbreviated chemical description - e.g., "aliphatic" applies to any paraffinic straight chain. I would be somewhat worried, though, about the xylene and acetone (which are specific compounds): These are very strong solvents, so you definitely should test spray this over the paint coat you want to proof to check that it is not attacked. Edited July 22, 2022 by John Stainforth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Thanks John It was more the PPE requirement i was thinking about as the damage to my paint is nothing if i cough up a lung shortly after i start! In any case i double checked with the manufacturer and they recommended this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165579036982?hash=item268d479936:g:X8IAAOSwNgVgsRIL Still, you are right about the acetone and it is likely to murder my enamel paints. I plan to do a test piece as soon as i can get that better mask. I will see if i can get filters that fiy my current mask but if not i will buy the new one outright. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Hilton Posted July 22, 2022 Share Posted July 22, 2022 Hi Jon An isocyanate is a 2 pack .Aerosols have a pull pin to release the hardener and have s short life after activation .As. John posted the solvents are best not inhaled and will likely pickle enamel paints . Tho polycynate is too vague to identify Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.