Using Solarfilm as Solartrim

[Ace]

I suspect like a lot I have a reasonable selection of Solarfilm oddments which I am reluctant to use as the primary covering due to the Polyprolene? sagging in sunlight.

As it would be a shame to waste them, would it be possible to convert it to Solartrim by applying a contact adhesive suitable for use with elec/glow? If so which one and has anyone been successful?  

I am thinking of names or slogans for wings, pinstripes, flashes etc. The reason for contact is that when I have tried to apply over an open structure they shrink or deform while trying to adhere to the uneven surface. Contact could be soapy water floated giving better adhesion to he uneven base while also being able to exclude air bubbles. I have had some success using a hot air gun on pinstripes and flashes but the balance is very tricky between sticking and shrinking ?

Any thoughts and experiences appreciate.

[kc]

The inventor of Solarfilm always said any sagging of Solarfilm was due to it being overheated by heat guns!   he advised to use only irons to shrink and increase heat gradually.   See the Derek Hardman online video on Youtube for advice.   So try your Solarfilm again following his advice!

Solarfilm and probably other film can be used as trim by applying a little cellulose thinners to the adhesive side and it will adhere to the main Solarfilm.   Again his video shows how and also gives patterns for insignia.

 

[John Lee]

You used to be able to get Solarfilm solvent which when applied to a surface did just what Ace wants, it enabled the Solarfilm to stick without using any heat.

 

Whilst the Solarfilm product is no longer available this Oracover thinner looks similar, has anyone tried it?

[Andy Stephenson]

I remember Solarfilm solvent it claimed to be MEK methyl ethyl ketone which when applied slightly dissolved the adhesive just enough to make it stick without heat. The advantage of not using heat was that there were no bubbles once fixed.

[John Lee]

That's interesting Andy, I could not remember the active ingredient. As I have a bottle of MEK to hand I've just tried it & indeed it does work & should suit Ace well.

 

MEK is readily available on-line or at plumber's merchants where it is used as a solvent for joining ABS plastic pipes.

[Andy Stephenson]

MEK = Butanone, also...

• 2-Butanone
• Ethyl methyl ketone^[2]
• Ethylmethylketone
• Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK; deprecated^[2])
• Methylpropanone
• Methylacetone

These chemists they simply can't settle on just one name.

[Don Fry]

In fairness, we have been naming these things for a couple of thousand years. Read a novel written say 600 years ago, Pilgrims Progress, or indeed Shakespeare. Not an easy read.

Its correct name, modern speak, is butan-2-one. Another name, it attempts to allow someone who knows the rules, to know the shape and position of the bits of the molecule. Useless knowledge, if it is a softener for a tacky layer. Full stop. 
Mind, methanol, an alcohol, has a common name in the America’s, suggesting it’s an organic acid to my mind. 
 

[PatMc]

I preferred to use Solarfilm rather than Solartrim as a trim material. The two seem to react differently to sunlight leading to the Solartrim often detaching around the edges. I've never found Solarfilm solvent satisfactory as it tends to take too long to dry relying on evaporation whilst sandwiched as it is between two airtight membranes. There's also the tendency for the solvent to cause the adhesive paint to run during the drying time resulting in uneven colour. 

Using Solarfilm as the trim is best done using a wipe of Prymol first as an etching agent but it can still be satisfactorily done without it. The secret is to simply use the lowest heat possible that will just activate the the adhesive. It may be necessary to check the adhesion for a days after & repeat low heat treatment in a few places but after that I've never had any long term problems.

 

 As an example all the trim & insignia on my late lamented Silhouette was cut from Solarfilm offcuts & attached as described without the help of Prymol.

 

I use the same method with Solartex offcuts on Solartex covered models.  

 

 

[leccyflyer]

Nice work Pat - I know what you mean, I miss my late lamented Silhouette too.

[Ron Gray]

All of the lettering on my Xtra Wot was done using film gently ironed on. No wrinkles and hasn’t lifted (yet!)

 

 

[Ace]

Brilliant, thanks all - collective sharing at its best ?

Sticking to a sheeted surface or cheat lines on a spar was satisfactory, it was the unsupported areas that flexed causing trouble for me.

Wiping with thinners or Isopropanol didn't soften the adhesive. 

Then AS came up with MEK and its various names, Don with a history lesson and John Lee suggesting ABS pipe joining liquid contained MEK. Looking on Screwfix they do contain   "Butanone" one of the names AS identified. 

So a quick trip to screwfix is next,  then I will report. 

[Ace]

Ok results of tests - Heath Robinson had a good outing ? 

Simple pull between fingers to feel resistance of separation between two pieces using different joining techniques.

Solarfilm on Solarfilm with iron set to 110c as the bench feel counting 10.

Plastic pipe weld painted on adhesive side - however it not only melted the adhesive but also melted and streaked the colour. 10 but removed all the colour when peeled.

Plastic pipe weld painted on shiny base film - when pressed some colour moved and excess PPW had to be removed with a solvent.  10 but removed all the colour when peeled.

Also tried the above with Hobbyking film - same results.

Solartrim on Solarfilm - was harder to remove - 12.

 

Are well not a practical solution, the plastic pipe weld is too aggressive melting everything except the clear carrier film.

         

 

[Engine Doctor]

Solartrim put on using soapy water method works well with no bubbles. Never had issue with peeling but thoroughly clean base before applying trim using cellulose thinner or isopropyl to remove any release agent etc that used during manufacture. 

[Andy Stephenson]

A clubmate applied Solarfilm as a decal simply by using the soapy water method and he claimed it worked as well as putting Solartrim on the same way.

[John Lee]

13 hours ago, Ace said:

 

Plastic pipe weld painted on shiny base film - when pressed some colour moved and excess PPW had to be removed with a solvent.  10 but removed all the colour when peeled.

 

That's interesting & rather disappointing Ace.

 

I did my experiment with pure MEK which when applied with a swab evaporated completely within about 30 seconds leaving no trace - very much as IPA or Acetone does. The trim part needed to be placed quickly as the MEK would otherwise evaporate before activating the adhesive.

 

As you had excess PPW left it indicates that there was more to the product than just MEK. I see that at least one Screwfix PPW is described as 'Non-drip, thixotropic' which must have other inert compounds in addition to MEK to bulk it up.

 

That said I don't remember the original Solarfilm Solvent being quite so volatile as my MEK (but I may be wrong) so perhaps it also contained another ingredient to slow down the evaporation?

 

So near & yet so far.

[kc]

I was sure I used cellulose thinners to soften the Solarfilm adhesive, so are you saying that shouldn't work?   I certainly didn't use MEK or Solarfilm solvent..   However the thinners I had might be anything - I had some Humbrol thinners at one time and then bought a gallon of cheap thinners from the local very reputable car paint suppliers.

It's worth saying there are several different types of genuine Solarfilm and various other similar types - Polyfilm years ago, and now HobbyKing etc.   The reaction to solvent might be different.

Edited October 20, 2021 by kc

[Ace]

On 19/10/2021 at 11:27, Ace said:

Wiping with thinners or Isopropanol didn't soften the adhesive. 

KC, unfortunately my cellulose didn't.

 

John Lee, yes the pipe weld was thixotropic which was a bit stiffer than yoghurt, so would indeed have contained other compounds but did stay on the film while placing and probably accounted for the excess squeezed out. As its designed to melt hard plastics I guess its to aggressive to just soften the adhesive without disturbing the colour.

 

Are well worth a little effort but must move on as I have loads of building to get stuck in to. Thanks for all for your inputs ?

[Andy Stephenson]

I just found the answer to this one, at least for 4Max covering. Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic works perfectly to adhere film as trim on top of film. It does it without any mess that other adhesives might leave including Cover Grip. Plastic Magic is meant for gluing plastic kits. It's a solvent only adhesive, which is ideal as it's a thin liquid which can be squeegeed out from under the film. I intend to use it on large areas which would be impossible to apply with an iron without getting bubbles.