martin collins 1 Posted November 8, 2021 Author Share Posted November 8, 2021 Looks like you made a neat job of that........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 That is very neat Graham . I would try to angle at least as much as that , but you will be limited by the top of the retract unit hitting the upper skin . What you have will work fine as you can always fine tune the unit by adding a shim under the rear lug when you screw them in . Now, my old friend Kevin , use to just smother that well in epoxy and leave it at that , I prefer to add a vertical wall of balsa or thin ply around the perimeter of the ply plate . That will result in the ply plate being glued to a box , which in itself is glued to the foam and spreads the load . When the model touches down the 5 inch legs lever back and try to compress the rear of the plate into the foam , At the same time the force tries to rip the front of the plate from the joint with the leading edge , So prop up the rear / anchor down the front . Lastly NOTE : Graham left the leading edge off till last to enable him to create the sloping foam face with a long sharp knife from the front of the wing without being impeded by wood. Very nice Graham . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 PPS As an alternative to the Tank cutter that Graham used for the wheel well hole , You could simply use a compass cutter to slice through the veneer and then scoop out the foam with a hot wire heated on the gas cooker ring , I have also just used a junior hack saw blade (with the end pins removed ) and then wrapped sandpaper round a jar to finish it off . The tank cutter can be a bit .............volatile . This all might seem a bit haphazard compared to out laser cut retract plates in more "modern " designs . But believe me , this route is far more robust . Plus once you get the hang of it ....straightforward . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Pictures to illustrate that wot he said (my LA-7) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 1 hour ago, RICHARD WILLS said: PPS As an alternative to the Tank cutter that Graham used for the wheel well hole , You could simply use a compass cutter to slice through the veneer and then scoop out the foam with a hot wire heated on the gas cooker ring , I can't do that I have an electric cooker! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Thank you guys all for your feedback. I have found that if you run the tank cutter with it running backward you will not get any cutting action until pressure is exerted, also a variable speed drill will also give you real control. Looking at Ron's I think that I could possibly go a fraction deeper at the l/e especially if it's going to be supported long the 3 edges. I have looked through your L7 notes Ron and are using it for this build. I decided to go for the pull pull system on the rudder. One thing I can't make my mind up is whether to stick with the aileron torque rods or install servos in the wing. Where I have used them in the past the aileron hole starts to enlarge causing a lot of play in the system. Any thoughts? Like Eric, I only have an induction hob which is why I had to knock the idea of simple vac forming on the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I was going to go with pull pull but changed my mind and went down the snake route in the end, no reason other than my original plans were to have concealed controls which also included ailerons with IDS but the 2 year ‘hiatus’ in the build refocused my thoughts. Personally I don’t like aileron torque rods and prefer servos in the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 3 hours ago, Eric Robson said: I can't do that I have an electric cooker! Yeah , I bet you have Eric , Probably a free standing Belling from 1972 . Notice , that Graham has an "induction " hob . (West Sussex for you ) Talk about North/South Divide . There's going to have to be a lot more levelling up methinks . I bet Brian Cullen , up in Jockville is probably cooking on a bonfire outside the cave . 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Ow be ye in the West Country Richard ? faar away from civiloyzation, be ye settled in them thar caves. Actually I use a gas torch to heat the wire to cut the foam. I didn't know Ron was friends with Ian Duncan Smith, helping him with his ailerons. I used torque rods for many years without any problems when servo's were not so plentiful and expensive . At least they kept the mechanism internal. Having said that I am going to use servos in the wing of my Hurricane with cut outs aided by my 1972 Belling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 ? I'm not allowed near the cooker Richard - for my wee home brewed vacformer I use a hot air gun to heat the plastic sheet up. Now, with a 3D printer I suppose that I don't need the vacformer quite as much. I think for wheel wells it would be a case of scribing round a suitable round thing and then picking away at the foam. I do have one of those soldering guns that I've used in the past to cut slots in EPS foam, with a piano wire hot bit- so I'll take note of that technique illustrated above. Anyway, I'm hoping for a clear bench in a couple of weeks so the question is - which of the Warbirds Replica's kits would be best to dip my toe into, after quite a few years of mostly ARTF and RTFs? The choice is Ju88, Hurricane, P-51B or Spitfire IX -which is it to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Hi Brian, I have built all of those and if I had the option to build them all again I would go for the Ju88 as it is in my opinion the quickest to build, and follow with the P51B with the Hurricane last. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 A question on fitting retracts. what is the preferred method of attaching then to the wing plate, wood screw or 3mm bolt into a captive nut. As I see it both methods have their for's and against. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leccyflyer Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 Thanks Eric. ? Ju88 is a model that I've been after for years and I've been mightly impressed with your build piccies. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Hilton Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 47 minutes ago, Graham R said: A question on fitting retracts. what is the preferred method of attaching then to the wing plate, wood screw or 3mm bolt into a captive nut. As I see it both methods have their for's and against. I prefer screws ,it’s easy to plug pulled out screw holes after a difficult landing .The same landing with captives can lead to pulled out u/c plates and a right mess 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 19 minutes ago, Alan Hilton said: I prefer screws ,it’s easy to plug pulled out screw holes after a difficult landing .The same landing with captives can lead to pulled out u/c plates and a right mess That was my thinking. Thanks for confirming Alan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 9, 2021 Share Posted November 9, 2021 I agree with Alan , In fact I usually put eight suitable self tappers in the retract packs . The plates generally stay in foam veneer wings . Its the built up wings on the laser cut kits that are more touchy . Thats why the rearward facing coils in the top of the legs are so vital. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 I have put a backorder in for the Spitfire on the Warbird Replicas site in the hope I can join in. Sit and wait I guess? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 10, 2021 Share Posted November 10, 2021 Dont worry , there will be Spitfires soon .? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted November 10, 2021 Author Share Posted November 10, 2021 ACTUNG SPITFIRE! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted November 11, 2021 Share Posted November 11, 2021 3 days flying weather has slowed up work on the Hurricane, for anyone building it I found the best way to fit the dihedral braces was to epoxy the outer panels to the centre section. When dry, with a razor saw cut through the veneer underneath then wrap some sandpaper around the blade and clean the slot up till the brace slides in. I then poured Gorilla glue into the slot and pushed the brace in , doing this a few times till the ply was coated with the glue, I then poured water on them and pushed them into the slot. when dry I trimmed them off and they just need sanding now. I think this way has more chance of getting the whole surface glued. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted November 12, 2021 Author Share Posted November 12, 2021 Slightly delayed joining the party due to other projects being finished but here is my Warbirds Winter build finally on the board! First impassions on unpacking the box are of a real quality kit, i am looking forward to getting stuck in with some glue (see what i did there!). I will be using Aliphatic for the wood parts and before the eagle eyed among you mention it i have not built two right sides, the ply side doublers are just laid on the sides for the picture before pinning and gluing starts. This one will be electric on a 4s 3300mah battery, motor will be a Predator 4250-580kv motor as fitted in the 1400mm FMS Zero. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted November 12, 2021 Share Posted November 12, 2021 (edited) Hi Martin, Good to see it on the building board. Not sure if you know that you will need to remove around 1/32" from each side of F3.This is to allow for the thickness of the ply doublers. Enjoy the build!! Edited November 12, 2021 by Graham R Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted November 13, 2021 Author Share Posted November 13, 2021 Ok Graham, i wasn`t aware of that, is it only F3 that requires material removing, not seen it mentioned on anyone elses builds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Hello Chaps , thanks for highlighting the mod required . Next batch will be corrected . Just cut the tabs off F3 and make the former fit behind the trailing edge . Its not significant . The crutch does all the work , you could use anything for F3 , even foam board .. Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martin collins 1 Posted November 14, 2021 Author Share Posted November 14, 2021 (edited) Progress so far, side panels have had the ply doublers added and the sides glued to the crutch with former F3 in between. The tailplane and fin parts were also joined. Tonight F2 has been fitted using 30 min epoxy. Edited November 14, 2021 by martin collins 1 pics 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.