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Warbirds Replicas Winter build thread.


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  • 4 weeks later...

LA-7 update,

Have been trying to sort out the best way of installing the flight batteries whilst keeping the airframe looking good (without too many non scale hatches).

The most obvious way is to place them behind the main bulkhead in a vertical position, with just enough room for a

4s 3300 pack. only problem is stopping them falling out.

My solution :-

 

 

 

IMG_7902 2.jpg

IMG_7903 2.jpg

 

Battery inserted through small hatch on bottom of cowl.

 

Edited by Graham R
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14 hours ago, Graham R said:

LA-7 update,

Have been trying to sort out the best way of installing the flight batteries whilst keeping the airframe looking good (without too many non scale hatches).

The most obvious way is to place them behind the main bulkhead in a vertical position, with just enough room for a

4s 3300 pack. only problem is stopping them falling out.

My solution :-

 

 

 

IMG_7902 2.jpg

IMG_7903 2.jpg

 

Battery inserted through small hatch on bottom of cowl.

 

 

As long as there is no possibility of the lipo falling out with vigorous flying you should be ok.

 

PS WOT WOT's have a design flaw where the lipo can fall out after a stall turn...need to ask how I know ? 

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Hi Ron,I didn't give it a thought, It would add a bit of insurance against it falling out. 

Do you still have the .STL file you did for the tailwheel on the LA-7?

 

Chris, How did you modify your wots wot.I have just relied on the original fittings on mine.

Edited by Graham R
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Off topic, but to answer the WOTs WOT question, I made one of these.

 image.png.e729a1714c0ddc9c8750371f72a764ab.png

 

It drops in the lipo tray keyhole and stops the tray sliding, just means you don't have to wind the Nylon screw super tight and once in and screw nipped there is no chance the tray can slide!

 

PS normally inserted the other way around unless you are in Australia ? 

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48 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Quite right Chris .

I believe that even their wing bolts have a reverse thread . Kylie Minogue once told me, that if she gets in a spin ,it is always anti clockwise . I can only assume that the Antipodean Wot 4 has a similar characteristic . 

The problem here Richard, as I'm sure you've spotted, is that when Ms Minogue is spinning around and demanding we get out of her way, it is not clear which way we should go to avoid a nasty and somewhat unseemly collision. Indeed, when this last happened, I had to try dozens of times before I managed to get in such a tangle...

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17 hours ago, Chris Walby said:

Off topic, but to answer the WOTs WOT question, I made one of these.

 image.png.e729a1714c0ddc9c8750371f72a764ab.png

 

It drops in the lipo tray keyhole and stops the tray sliding, just means you don't have to wind the Nylon screw super tight and once in and screw nipped there is no chance the tray can slide!

 

PS normally inserted the other way around unless you are in Australia ? 

 

Ah, my bad, I guess you're talking about the 'proper' wood version.  I only have the foam version which has no issues. Apart from getting really grubby 'cos it's white foam.

 

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9 hours ago, Andy Gates said:

Silver Wolf,

 

Can you not fit a smaller tank at the correct height and then a bigger tank further up and behind in the same fashion as a fuel helicopter set up?

It would save hacking / modifying F2 too much.

 

Not unless you pressure isolate the lower tank from the top tank's head pressure. You end up needing tanks with 4 or 5 pipes on them so while it can work it is a hassle. Much easier to lower the tank. looking at your photo further up your tank is massive, you really dont need one that big. IT looks like about 12oz? 

 

Anyway i will find the photos of my setup and post them in a bit. I dont think i have all the pictures on this machine. 

 

Eric, my Hurricane needed a good bit of lead even with a slightly longer nose and a laser 80. Its standard for a warbird and not an issue. I recommend you make a horse shoe shaped piece and wrap it round the front of the engine supported by something coming off the engine mount. I used thin steel strip and hammered captive nuts into the lead. Thread locked together its not come loose since i built the model. 

Edited by Jon - Laser Engines
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Hi John,

I've been building warbirds for many years now and yes they nearly all need lead, even the B. Taylor Warhawk  but that was in the tail. The Saito 82 FS is 200 grams lighter than the Laser 80 and I don't know about a horse shoe of lead this one needed the horse attached to the shoe. any way I have used my stock of lead up so I have used 560g of  12mmsq brass bar and it now balances.  

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Thanks for the advice chaps and the photos Jon.

 

Multi tanks would work, although seems to complicate what should be a rather quick & simple model.

Proposed tank is "Du-Bro 8oz"  height 49mm could go a Slec 6oz which as a height of 47mm. If tank is raised by 10mm this will put centre line of tank 5mm above centre of carb.  

Had thought about putting some carbon tissue (deluxe materials) or carbon tows on bottom section of new F2.

 

Regards

 

SW

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Guys - i have a laser 80 fitted in a VQ fw190, and yes the tank ( slec - yellow) is at the fitted height, so the c/l of the tank is way above where it should be, ( in line with the carb) and the  only draw back being  fuel leaks out the carb when tank is full.  Don't have another problems, and runs sweet, as a sewing machine.

But i do have a pressure nipple fitted to the exhaust, Don't know if this makes a difference ?  And i'm quite happy with this set up..

So you loose a few drops of fuel prior to starting.

Just my thoughts / input.?

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