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Connector for wing with multiple servos


Andy Joyce
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Read in another thread a recommendation for the use of MaxLoc connectors for a wing to fuselage connector to reduce the number of interconnects required for a 2,4 or 6 servo installation.  Is this still the best option to use?

 

Used a Maplin 9 pin DIN style connector in my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth and now regret that as one side has an intermittent connection which has to be rectified in some way which probably means removing some of the wing covering.

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Andy 

I can vouch for 4 Max Ashlock connectors, I used them on my Rival 4 servo wing and I'm very pleased with them, the wing is really easy to get on and off with just one connector. You do need to use some servo connector crimps but fortunately for me my son has a pair and made my connectors up for me. 4 Max also sell the crimps if you need them.

 

 

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Just now, GrumpyGnome said:

For both of these, you need to remove the existing servo connectors, yeah?

 

Anything out there where you can keep the connectors?

With Ashlocks you could crimp on servo female connectors and use existing extension leads.

I have used a Multiplex connector like Paul but they are a pain to solder and you can only use a single positive and negative wire. Also it's better practice to use crimped rather than soldered connections.

 

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1 hour ago, Andy Joyce said:

Used a Maplin 9 pin DIN style connector in my 1/4 scale Tiger Moth and now regret that as one side has an intermittent connection which has to be rectified in some way which probably means removing some of the wing covering.

I had the same regret using the DINs in my FunCub XL and replaced them using the connectors recommended by Nigel above. The Nexus website has numerous combinations of the Emcotec/Muliplex connectors which are now my standard go-to for multi servo wing connections.

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18 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

I hate connectors, all those contacts to corrode, there is nothing (in my opinion ) better than all soldered and glued up,,,

The problem with soldering wire is that you can get a weak point where the solder stops, which is very easily broken under strain. Interestingly on full size motors connections many specification insist on crimped connections rather than soldered for this very reason.

 

But the multi-connectors just replace the myriad of connectors between the wing and fuselage so instead of say having 4 separate connectors, you just have one locking connector, saves having to take the wing off again when you realise you've plug a flap servo into the aileron channel (and vice versa) 🙄

 

I have made up many of these for my own use and also on clubmates models for over 5 years now, touch wood, they have been very reliable todate. 

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20 minutes ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

I hate connectors, all those contacts to corrode, there is nothing (in my opinion ) better than all soldered and glued up,,,

 

And yet the first computers I worked on back in the 1960s (all discrete germanium transistors) had boards connected to 19" rack carriers using short lengths of BTC wire wrapped with 8 turns to join the pins - 1000s of them and perfectly reliable.  The wrapping tools were modified Stanley pump action screwdrivers.  Similarly, aircraft multi-connectors are all crimp connectors using very expensive crimp tools and I've wire-wrapped 1000's of IC holders on logic boards I've designed and not a soldered joint in sight.

 

For multi-servo wings I use what were known as Ashlok connectors - mostly 6 way for 2 servos but I have also used 12 way for 4 servo wings.

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Andy S, the trick is to flood the Vero between connections with solder.

 

Those MPX connectors need wires soldered to the very short pins, not easy for most and need supporting with heatshrink and Evostick. Not my idea of fun.

For many years I have used my system on anything with three plugs or more and have never had a failure. You need servo type plug to plug wiring from the Rx to the multi connectors which are identical to the type we use but you do need a proper crimp tool.

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2 hours ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

If you look at my photo, the wires age all glued together, so NO weak points.

Multiplex plugs.jpg

A Mini Blade I bought had one of those and it was fine for a couple of years, eventually the main power connection went a bit intermittent, fortunately noticed on the ground, it could have been how it was made, I replaced it with a couple of "ashloks" a couple of years back and they have been fine. I have nothing against the MPX 6 pin plugs I use loads for battery power leads on electric flight and also for receiver power, but soldering wires to each pin is quite fiddly.

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Earlybird, I would love to put pics of the whole set up but have done this many times before on this forum, including part numbers. Blowed if I can find the original ones but if there is interest I can easily take pics of a complete installation. Let me know. It really is quite simple. At one time I even offered to make these up to order but no takers.

Before I retired I used to make prototype wiring harnesses as part of my job and have crimped literally thousands of those female plugs, having of course the very expensive tools to do it correctly.

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19 minutes ago, Martin McIntosh said:

Earlybird, I would love to put pics of the whole set up but have done this many times before on this forum, including part numbers. Blowed if I can find the original ones but if there is interest I can easily take pics of a complete installation. Let me know. It really is quite simple. At one time I even offered to make these up to order but no takers.

Before I retired I used to make prototype wiring harnesses as part of my job and have crimped literally thousands of those female plugs, having of course the very expensive tools to do it correctly.

Martin what does the commercial crimper look like as it has taken me some years now to successfully make off the standard crimp servo connections using the standard cheap hand tool style crimper. Even now I occasionally get a loose connection. Found a head mounted magnifier improved the end result significantly.

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Without the correct tool forget it. Mine was £450 + Vat when bought but looking at CPC they no longer list the same one. Others are on there but you are still looking at £250!

Before I got this I used wire cutters to crimp then carefully added a minute amount of solder to make sure. Not a great idea.

When I can I shall photo a model installation and the tool I use.

Some CPC examples.

Harwin crimp socket CN1066.

Crimp tool CN14389, £312!

Terminal housing 3 way CN01058.

10 way CN01063.

 PCB header 90 deg 5 way CN18444.

The straight headers must be on the site somewhere.

 

Pics to follow.

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