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Connector for wing with multiple servos


Andy J
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On 30/11/2021 at 18:03, MattyB said:

 

If you buy a Multiplex model you'll see in the instructons they often show a 6 pin green connector being used on a lipo. Why I'm not sure - it must be more long winded to solder and it can't have the same contact area as a dedicated power type plug (XT60, EC3 etc) has (they are only rated to 35A). I can only assume Mpx want to sell more of their own connectors!

 

 

I actually use them quite a bit, they are quite easy to solder and being connected to 3 pins each well supported. The other thing with these plugs is although they are quite secure they are pretty easy to push together and pull apart, not like some of the others than need quite a bit of force.

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I have an early FMS Zero and wings have loads of wires for ailerons, flaps, retracts and lights.. Fitted a lipo 6s balance lead extention using socket connected to the fuselage and plug onto wing leads . Very quick and simple to connect . Make sure to buy better quality extension leads as some use really rubbish wire.

They  can be cut and soldered directly to the wires or fitted with plugs and sockets on servos

Edited by Engine Doctor
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  • 8 months later...

Have to say using the Ashlock connectors on one model makes life really easy to make and break the required wing connections. Will definitely be using them on more models in the future despite the fact that they are a pain to wire up and make off the crimp connections.

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  • 5 months later...

On the hunt again for a four servo connection between wing and fuselage. Found these after some googling

 

https://www.3waycomponents.co.uk/12-Way-Universal-TE-AMP-MATE-N-LOK-Wiring-Connector-Kit-With-Seals?search=Mate-n-lok&page=4

 

cheap and robust looking but the blurb says for 18-20 gauge wire. Given that heavier duty servo wire is 22 gauge the unit may be a tad robust. The model will have twin 3200ma li ion receiver batteries on HV servos. Any electrical gurus who can comment please. They do look somewhat easier to solder up than some others discussed here, which will suit my less than perfect soldering skills.

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Nick, those are meant to be crimped, not soldered, although you may get away with soldering then carefully squeezing the crimps together with pliers. Get it wrong and they will not go into the housings.

Why not take up my offer above and have normal 10 or 12 way ones done professionally? You would almost certainly need a dedicated AMP crimp tool to do those properly.

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