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Pilot - RC Slick 67" first look and build


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As promised here is my take on the Pilot - RC Slick 67" build. On unboxing the quality of the parts etc would give Extreme Flight a run for its money for a lot less cash. I like to start by assessing the fixing of the motor and get that achieved. To do that I put the U/C legs on to simplify the job. There is an additional motor box extension frame that can be used, but given the motor I am using (Turnigy G160) I may be able to use some of my steel stand offs if measurements permit as previous reviews have been critical of the extension box as being rather flimsy. Any way we will see.

Firstly, there is no manual with the kit so I had to download a generic manual from Pilot RC and print it as there isn't a specific one for the Slick.

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The scant information on the motor's specification is as follows :-  

290Kv for use with 9-10 cells, Max current 78A and an 85-100A HV ESC is recommended. I will be using a 120A opto ESC only because it was the one I used in my Capiche refurbishment. That set up was fine for a 11 lb+ aerobatic model which was more than capable of dragging the Capiche 140 around which is way heavier than the Slick will turn out to be given it is largely designed as an modern electric aerobat. Next workshop visit will be to fit the motor.

Edited by Adrian Smith 1
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Got a bit of a decision to make after some thought. 

My intention was to use my Turnigy ROTOMAX G160 (replacement for 160 glow) in this build. Now the spec. is as follows:-

9-10 cells (10S) RPM 245kv for use with planes weighing 5.4-9kg (12-20 Ibs). Bearing in mind the weight of this aircraft should be in the region of 3.7kg - this motor seems to be rather overkill. Further cons are it weighs 632g and would require two 5S lipos wired in series (extra weight). The motor was fitted to my refurbished Capiche 140, but I have only used it three times, hence the original thought to use it.

 

Now looking at the Pilot-RC recommendations for its 67" kits in its power pack set, the Pilot-RC motor looks to be a rebadged Dualsky GA2000.4 V2 X-motor (20cc equivalent)

https://www.hobbyplastic.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=250_426_427&products_id=11153

 

The spec of the two smaller motors appears to be the same. The big plus for me is its weight at 350g! Furthermore, it only requires ONE 6s lipo to be used.

No brainer really don't you think?

  

 

 

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Edited by Adrian Smith 1
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When the motor box stand off is fitted the gap between the inner wall and the cowl opening is around 72-73mm. The length of the motor including supplied mount is 62mm therefore I will need some extra stand offs of around 10-11mm to allow for correct motor mounting. Anyway more of that later. Off to work then. I loose fitted the extension box (which will need strengthening later on) all good here. First I drilled holes in the extension box so that it could be glued and bolted to the I/C wall mounting. 30 minute epoxy made up for this job. I am using M4 bolts and nuts here with blue thread locker.

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Next issue is that to fix the motor mount to the motor wall it has to be unbolted from the rear of the motor as supplied. This is because there is no clear access for the bolts when fixing the motor to the extension box. Now that was a so-and-so as the bolts wouldn't easily turn so I had to apply gentle heat to them as I didn't want break the bolts. Fortunately that did the trick.

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Edited by Adrian Smith 1
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Before embarking on motor mount strengthening i decided to make sure the motor and cowl line up correctly. While there is hole drilled in the fuselage former (with claw nut) for the top of the cowl, the bottom fixing points had to be drilled. I marked out the distance in the time honoured fashion with masking tape such that the hole to be drilled was 3 cms away from the marking point. It was then a straightforward job to drill and fit the bolts. By the way the three bolts required to fit the cowl were not supplied and therefore I had to dig out some short M3 bolts from stock to do the job.

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Next a bit of reinforcement. There is a piece of carbon fibre laminated ply supplied to be stuck on the top of the first part of the motor box. I used 30 minute epoxy here. There is also some triangular stock in the kit to aid reinforcement. Now the manual shows a ply triangular support for both electric and I/C options. Once again not supplied. I had fashion a piece out of liteply and glued as shown below. All put aside to dry while i think about the next steps.

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I have a bit of a problem to solve with the ZTW Opto ESC. Where I would normally attach the ESC seems a bit of a no-no. There carbon fibre rods located underneath the motor box  is where I would normally make use of (were even big enough which it isn't) pointing the motor wires in the right direction. The rear of the ESC rests on the former making it not level. I have tried inside the fuselage too, but I am concerned about the cooling aspect of doing that and also this leaves little room on the platform for the lipo. The one plus is the motor wires are in line with the ESC connections that way. I don't really want to buy a smaller ESC purely in terms of cost. I may have wait until I come to balance the CoG before I can make a final decision. I am a bit stumped at the moment, however. 

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One thing I am going to try tomorrow is this - I have some thick balsa sheet which I will fit (then glue) either side of the base of the former such that it is the same height as bottom of the former. I will laminate it with a thin piece of ply thereby giving a level base for the ESC to be fitted underneath the motor box. That's the theory anyway and I wanted the platform to be as light as possible. Screw or bolt holes for the ESC will be reinforced with thin cyano. Fortunately the ESC is narrow enough to fit between the CF rods. I will have a go at this tomorrow to see if it works and report back here.

 

 

 

 

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Back to the manual for the next step of the tail wheel assembly. I have seen some moans and groans online about how flimsy it is. Well having examined and fitted it the assembly it well up to task for this size of aircraft. The problem arises if landings are in disciplined and the plane is dumped tail first to ground. Best to perfect the flare technique. I temporarily fitted the rudder to help alignment. The area where the tail wheel is screwed on is plenty strong enough with C/F ply installed to the frame. The supplied coupler for the steering rod is gorilla glued in.

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Edited by Adrian Smith 1
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Off comes the rudder to fit the stab. The prefabricated build here is excellent and the wing slots in tight without movement. 30 minute epoxy used here. The rear post is pre-cut and film applied ready to glue back in WHEN the elevators have been installed. I am altogether impressed with the kit quality, by the way. One the rudder/ elevators are glued in then I will fit the servos. That all comes on another day.

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