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Wing bolts


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22 hours ago, PatMc said:

@John Wagg I have a pair of these, screws & mounting brackets complete, doing nothing. They're unused but slightly grubby & the plastic is opaque white rather than translucent as the Ebay ones.

If you want to try them PM me your address & I'll stick them in the post.

Hi' PatMc,

P.M. sent.

 

Thanks

John

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Hi' All

Internet still not returned to normal but is currently operable. 🙄

 

I have been involved with nuts and bolts thread all my working life but these are possibly imperial, but which ?? 

In that case I'm unlikely to find a nylon bolt to suit except perhaps old stock. 

From Leccyflyers Ebay link (thank you) they are/were a  "Flair" product and not produced any more.

Current available wing bolt/fittings seem to be generally 4mm etc. 

I prefer plastic bolts as there is at least some give in the event of something getting in the way.

I appreciate all the comments and suggestions thank you very much.

 

Regards

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

A 6mm bolt wobbles as I have tried one and could possibly pull out so is not worth the risk.

PTFE tape could be an option but I would have to think that through. Chance that the tape, with it being so soft, may not stay in place.

 

As it is PatMc has very kindly sent me a couple of originals so I'm OK for the moment.

As a last resort I suppose I could use metal screws.

Also now need to source a modern replacement.

 

Thanks all

John

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3 minutes ago, Eric Robson said:

John, if you can't remove the old retainers you could epoxy some 6mm studding in and use 6mm plastic nuts and washers to retain the wing.

Hi' yes thanks.

That is an option that had crossed my mind although I would look at fixing some form of nut into the bracket. Possible drill out the 1/4" thread and epoxy in a 4 or 6 mm thread.

 

John

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John

 

Don't do anything so drastic. I've just checked my wingbolt stocks and I reckon I have a few of those old Flair bolts and fixings -they are not in a package, so I can't be 100% sure, but they look right and trying a 6mm bolt (of which I have dozens) in the fitting that would be a very sloppy, unsuitable fit as you describe. The bolts have 35mm of thread below the cheesehead. If you would like to try these, I'm not likely to use them, so just drop me a PM with your mailing address and I'll pop them in the post FOC, if that would help you out.IMG_0261.thumb.jpg.41bfd998f77677f071731ef173a94975.jpg

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If those bolts are not long enough Eric I like that idea of installing a long 6mm bolt, epoxied in place and then maybe using a pair of wing nuts (no pun intended) to retain the wing. I inherited a Wot-4 foam-e from a clubmate's estate, which had the wing retained by a large knob, which screws down onto a bolt protruding from the fuselage and it works very well for a sports model.

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Sorry for the lack of response guys. Contracted Covid and it's knocked me sideways.

Up thread hampered by the internet and now the dreaded lurgy. Very sore chest with all the coughing.

 

I'll come back ASAP.

Regards

John

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Have you tried 1/4" UNC? They have approx 1mm pitch, are available from ModelFixings in nylon, and were used on a lot of Vietnamese and older UK kits.

 

When I build a model using wing-bolts for fixing, I use good quality, thick plywood for the mount and simply tap the wood. Running a bit of thin cyano down the threads after tapping, and running the tap through once the cyano has dried, if necessary, will give a very solid fixing, without the need for captive nuts.

 

Been doing it that way for years, thought it was commonplace!

 

Apologies if this has already been suggested! I've only just stumbled on this thread, and its got quite long to search through...!

 

P.S. Get well soon!

 

--

Pete

 

Edited by Peter Christy
afterthought
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7 minutes ago, Peter Christy said:

When I build a model using wing-bolts for fixing, I use good quality, thick plywood for the mount and simply tap the wood. Running a bit of thin cyano down the threads after tapping, and running the tap through once the cyano has dried, if necessary, will give a very solid fixing, without the need for captive nuts.

 

Me also, with a slight variation, I use a ply/balsa/ply sandwich, which gives extra glue area when sticking it to the fuselage side.

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Not the greatest start to 2022 for you, John.  Get well soon.

 

Pete, I've always been a bit wary of using wood threads for regular and frequent use (like wing attachment/removal) but perhaps I should try it.  By 'thick' plywood I assume you mean 6 mm - or more?  I like the threaded inserts sold by Modelfixings and I've used them a lot as they're neater than the more common T nuts.

 

Geoff

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Hi Geoff,

 

Plywood thickness depends on the model size, clearly, but I've used 1/4" heavy ply on 60 powered 5 footers without any qualms. One of them has been flying for over 10 years now, and the wing fixing is still rock solid (er, unlike some of the rest of the model! 😆 )

 

The trick is treating the threads with thin cyano, once you've cut them. If you overdo it, it can clog them up a bit, but another run through with the tap once they've thoroughly dried usually sorts that.

 

I like Nigel's idea of making a ply / balsa sandwich, but I usually fashion my plywood so that it attaches to the bulkhead at the rear of the wing mount as well as the fuselage sides. Attach it with decent epoxy and the fuselage will break before the mount! 😉

 

--

Pete

 

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2 hours ago, Peter Christy said:

I usually fashion my plywood so that it attaches to the bulkhead at the rear of the wing mount as well as the fuselage sides.

 

You've got your extra glue area a different way 👍 

 

Concur on the thin cyano, I dose all the threads everywhere on the airframe, if they're into wood, not just wing bolts... servos, hatches, cowls, canopies, control horns, etc.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Yes a big thankyou to both Patmc and Leccyflyer for the donations of bolts. Both planes now ready for flying but the weather through February has precluded any chance of test flights.

Much appreciated for all the help of the forum.

 

Regards

John.

Edited by John Wagg
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