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Weathering


Graham Davies 3
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Hi All,

 

I had a very kind message from @Tim Eastgate in response to the weathering on my newly completed KB-11. 

 

The subject of weathering, and generally making our models look more realistic is really the last thing I learned with regards building. I am indebted to @RICHARD WILLS  for his guidance ability to simplify this process so that something that seemed so far out of my abilities has become a thoroughly satisfying process. Tim has pointed out that it is not easy to find this information and I agree that whilst a lot has been written on the subject, it is frequently buried within specific build threads.

 

So, here's a place to throw our ideas down and share what we know such that others can find it and benefit. Here's my starter; a reply I made to Tim:

 

Graham

 

A fair bit has been written on this, but in various threads. It's kind of you to compliment my efforts, but I am just a disciple of Richard Wills and Paul Johnson. They produce fantastic models that are basically sports models, but look so much like the real thing. So, how do I doit?

 

I start with the panel lines because the dirt collects on the panel gaps. A bit of basic research to find out where to put the lines and then draw them on with a fine permanent marker (mine ran out on the KB11 and I used a sharpie that is a bit too thick). Then the magic bit; go over the line just to one side with a white gel pen. Make the line 'broken and always to the same side of each line with respect to the light. The white represents light reflecting off the gap.

 

Then I weather... There are two ways:

Cheap and easy way and how I learned uses chalk and/or charcoal. I bought a set of chalks from ebay that went from white to black via several greys. 

 

So, on spanwise panel lines, gently apply a bit of low tack masking tape along the upwind side of the line. rub chalk onto the tape and then rub it from the tape onto the model with your fingertip in a circular motion. Remove the tape and Bob's your uncle! Select dark chalk over light colours, and lighter chalk over dark colours. 

 

For lengthwise panels, do the same on one side, and do similar on the other side, but use a piece of card. Tape will remove all your good work otherwise. For lengthwise, I keep the 'spread' smaller as these panels attract dirt, but it doesn't spread as far as on the downwind edge of a spanwise edge.

 

The more permanent method is with an airbrush. It's a similar method, but I use card templates to mask rather than masking tape.

 

I spray exhaust goo and oil spill from certain areas such as hydraulic junctions around retracts. Same method; create a mask and spray way from it, or rub chalk away from it.

 

For rib emphasis on rudders, elevators etc, it's a similar method. On horizontal surfaces I use dark both sides of the rib and try to get a small gap between my masks. The dark area is to represent the shadow created by the dip in fabric between the ribs. On vertical surfaces I use a lighter colour above the rib to represent the light falling.

 

It's surprisingly easy and massively satisfying. The model comes to life before your eyes and to me is the difference between a toy and a model.

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Weathering is a very interesting Topic . I have never used  chalks  but have used Graphite dust from a pencil occasionally . I did once try using a fine permanent marker but was dissapointed with the results.as they were too hard/bold . I find using a pencil line of varying pressure followed by dirty cellulose thinners in a dual action airbrush and low tack tape or a piece of card is a good way of achieving panel lines that are not OTT. Various shades of Grey ,Black and Brown coloured thinners  give good results on painted surfaces  . A thin coat of matt or satin clear seals in the effect.

Its also a good way of achieving weathering on warbirds and give give that repaired in the field look. 

Oil leaks or runs  can be effectively made by applying a wetter coat and blowing in the direction required with just the air from the brush .

One Warning that anyone contemplating weathering a model should take on board !!

Its extremely addictive and swallows up hours of your time . Guess how I know ? 

Also take a step back every now and again and know when to stop.  Less is often better than more . 

 

Interesting to here others tips .

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I’ve got a pot of carbon black, used a a fingerprint powder on warn paintwork. Awful stuff, gets everywhere, if your not careful you get to look like a coal miner at shift end.

but put a bit on fingertips, handle the machine where greasy fitters handle it, and it looks very good, and the effect just gets softer with age.

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I've been adding some dummy panel lines, rivets, hatches etc to my Kyosho Spitfire refurb and doing (maybe overdoing) a bit of weathering. More on the upper surfaces than the lower and more on the port wing root, where the driver gets in and around the ammo loading hatches and leading edge around the guns. For the panel lines I've used a normal HB pencil, which gives a soft line and works well on the underside especially. For the upper surfaces I've augmented that with a white pencil -following remarks in this forum.

 

IMG_0259.thumb.jpg.a54b0e9ede02eae17f7af2015faae809.jpg

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The model is painted over aluminium Solarfilm, so if you just lean ever so lightly on the pencil it brings up tiny flakes of paint up along the panel lines. For the frequently removed panels I've also had a wee scratch with a scalpel blade. Once I get the graphics and nomenclature markings on there I'll dirty it up a bit more, but here's a shot of the wing, in process. I might tone that wear down on the leading edge - which was added by giving a wee rub with 00 gauge steel wool, slightly damp.

Someone noted on RCG that the wheels retracted the wrong way for a Spitfire - a feature of Kyosho's design, I'm afraid, which I wasn;t going to correct on this very semi-scale ARTF . ?

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