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Super Scorpion - by Belair Kits.


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Just gone and bought myself a 66" 'Super Scorpion' kit, made by Belair Kits.
It's just been delivered and I'm very impressed with the quality.
As it's a 'Parts Set', not a kit as such. you don't get an awful lot supplied, but what you do get is very detailed, there's a lot of wood, and it looks very high quality indeed. It includes all of the shaped parts; you have to buy the sheet and strip wood yourself.
Having laid out the plan I'm rather surprised at just how big a 66" lane actually is. Don't know why I'm surprised - it's 66" ?... it just looks a lot bigger than it did on my screen.
 
Any of you clever people out there got more experience than me with this sort of thing? (I think all of you have actually).
As I can't find a build log on here I thought I'd better start one here.
I've been reading lots on the Interweb, but would appreciate any help as I go along.
It's only my fourth model build, but I'm sure it'll go fine.....

bellair-10.jpg

Edited by Martyn Johnston
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I’m just starting the fuselage. I’ve got the top longeron and bottom longeron cut to length.

I can understand all of the diagonals.

But I don’t really understand the middle (two) longerons (see photo).

Should they be full length, and glued ‘on top of’ the diagonals (ie internal to the longerons)? Or ‘underneath the diagonals (ie external to the longerons)?

Or are they supposed to be cut from lots of little pieces and lie in the same plane as the diagonals (unlikely) ?

A cross-section ‘anywhere’ along the fuselage would help.

Scorpion.jpg

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So, should the rib capping strips go 'up to' the tailplane spar (ie the ribs themselves glued slightly lower than the top of the spar so the cap makes it flush).

   (top picture).

Or should they go all the way 'over' the spar (ie the ribs glued flush with the top of the spar). And then more capping strip wood on top of the spar itself to make it all flush.

  (bottom picture).

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20220103_113707.jpg

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The cap strips go over and under the spar.

The TE, LE, LE backing and bottom capping are flat to the board. The spar is placed on the bottom capping's and bottom sheeting the ribs are then glued in place. The spar is then tapered and top capping and sheeting added.

 

Every rib has a cross section shown.

 

image.thumb.png.48d362cfb7c6be4d88143eab73e9b6b4.png

 

Hope this helps.

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1. So do you then place a 'capping' piece on top of the spar (between the ribs), to make top surface flush ? or not bother.

2. The rib cross-sections show the whole rib, they each need cutting to butt up against the back and front of the spar; wonder why they didn't just cut them in the two individual pieces ? (three if you count the elevator parts).

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12 minutes ago, Martyn Johnston said:

1. So do you then place a 'capping' piece on top of the spar (between the ribs), to make top surface flush ? or not bother.

2. The rib cross-sections show the whole rib, they each need cutting to butt up against the back and front of the spar; wonder why they didn't just cut them in the two individual pieces ? (three if you count the elevator parts).

1. The plan does not show the spar to be capped.

2. That's a question for Belair Kits to answer I think. ?

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Nice build!

 

My own Super Scorp is nearly 20 years old, and has been electric from the beginning.

 

I doesn't take a lot of power to make it fly, but you will need to get the cell pack as far forwards as possible - preferably actually beneath the motor - to avoid having to add useless nose weight.

 

Mine is vastly over-powered with an Eflight 15 outrunner, and a 4S 4000 cell pack, spinning an 11x7 prop.

 

Hope this helps!

 

Tim

IMG_4037small.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Fuse coming together now.

Problem is that each side is built, flat, on the plan.  Then both sides joined together (obviously ? ). But the top is about 80mm apart and the bottom about 40mm apart, so there's a slope. Looks nice, but not easy to line up exactly. There are no location points or jig to make sure it's right. It would be easy to get the slope different on the right to on the left; or to get one side a little further forward than the other.
I did it slowly, and carefully, by eye.  Looks about right to me.

20220122_123300.jpg

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Problem at the front end now.

This piece of plywood (in my fingers, 2nd photo), goes approximately where I'm holding it; underneath the top stringer, and butted against the 2nd diagonal. But there's a 1st diagonal in the way.

Question guys: Before I cut the top part of the 1st diagonal away am I misunderstanding something ?

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