Mike T Posted February 9, 2022 Share Posted February 9, 2022 (edited) 9 hours ago, kc said: Rather than break the joints to fit those ply parts in why not consider cutting the ply in half lengthways and seeing if they can be fitted in without disturbing the framework? The cut in part A could be glued and reinforced by a ply crosspiece just where the u/c bolts are located. Much easier to get all the u/c bolt holes and everything arranged before fitting! LOL! ? Edited February 9, 2022 by Mike T forum doesn't recognise emoji keyboard shortcuts :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 Sorry Mike I had not realised that you had already suggested sawing the formers in half back in January. The most likely reason for a double quantity of items being supplied is that someone else has a kit with none! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 10, 2022 Share Posted February 10, 2022 2 minutes ago, kc said: Sorry Mike I had not realised that you had already suggested sawing the formers in half back in January. The most likely reason for a double quantity of items being supplied is that someone else has a kit with none! or ones for electric the others for IC.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted February 10, 2022 Author Share Posted February 10, 2022 34 minutes ago, kc said: Sorry Mike I had not realised that you had already suggested sawing the formers in half back in January. The most likely reason for a double quantity of items being supplied is that someone else has a kit with none! ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 'Great minds' kc! (or is it that 'fools seldom differ... ?) Extra formers are options for free-flight maybe - where holes for r/c & plumbing aren't required? Usually, doubled up sets of parts are included to be, er, doubled up! I.e. 2 x 1/8 to make a 1/4 former? Who knows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 I started doing the tail like the first photo here. But have changed and reinforced the tail rear spar as shown in the second; MUCH stronger. Not sure how the fin will fit but I'll sort that later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 I've cut the first diagonal back, as discussed earlier, to butt against the engine bearer piece. Looking quite strong up front now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 And I've split the undercarriage-mount bulkhead, as recommended above. Might double this up for strength (one split left/right and one split right/left). I guess there will NEVER be access to the undercarriage bolts again once it's in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted February 28, 2022 Author Share Posted February 28, 2022 Saddle clamps with screws? Or bolts and captive nuts ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 Now made the undercarriage wire. I guess I should have done this 'before' assembling the fuselage halves. Unfortunately the aft part doesn't reach the fuselage; I'm sure it did when I pre-assembled it for test ? Might redo it as I don't like the copper/brass wire I've used to wrap it; doesn't stick to the solder at all well. I've used some picture framing wire I had handy. Can anyone suggest a better, very-thin, wire to use please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 I still can't see how this is going to get assembled now the fuselage is built. I can either attach the undercarriage wire to the bulkhead first (but then it won't go in to the fuselage). Or I can insert the bulkhead (split in two, as described above, for assembly) but then I won't have access to be able to attach the undercarriage. I guess it'll sort itself out when I get there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted March 15, 2022 Share Posted March 15, 2022 Put the bulkhead in first, then finagle the main u/c wire into position. Surgery may be required (followed by post-op reconstruction). Use thick copper wire (e.g. the earth wire from 5mm T&E) to bind in place using the holes you've drilled - twist it tight at the rear of the bulkhead. This is likely to be time consuming and frustrating. Epoxy up when done, then install the rear u/c wire. Bend a new one to fit if necessary. Bind and solder to the front legs 'in situ'. I got a hank of 24 or 26 swg tinned copper wire from ebay for this kind of thing. As usual with solder, make sure its all bright and clean before binding. When bound, I paint some plumbers flux on it (white stuff in a yellow tub) and then solder with a big, hot iron. Wire brush and wash off when done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted March 15, 2022 Author Share Posted March 15, 2022 Thanks Mike. I've put some captive nuts on the back of the (second) bulkhead sheet; I 'might' be able to put bolts in from the front to attach the u/c if I put the bulkhead in first. I'll do a trial run. Hadn't thought of installing the rear u/c wire in situ; might be a better plan. Tinned copper wire now ordered ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 (edited) As an addendum, before binding with TCW, hold the parts together with small twists of same and do a quick 'tack solder'. Remove twists, file/clean up joints and then you can put the binding on neatly without the wires wobbling all over the place. Then slather flux and do the proper solder job. Edited March 16, 2022 by Mike T typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glasshopper Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 On 15/03/2022 at 15:10, Martyn Johnston said: Now made the undercarriage wire. I guess I should have done this 'before' assembling the fuselage halves. Unfortunately the aft part doesn't reach the fuselage; I'm sure it did when I pre-assembled it for test ? Might redo it as I don't like the copper/brass wire I've used to wrap it; doesn't stick to the solder at all well. I've used some picture framing wire I had handy. Can anyone suggest a better, very-thin, wire to use please ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glasshopper Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Use the old fashioned fusewire from an old fashioned electricians shop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Copper Rope Ferrules, various sizes on ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatMc Posted March 16, 2022 Share Posted March 16, 2022 Just skin back the insulation from some multi strand flex - something like on old light fitting or any of a multitude of small consumer electric accessories or the leads of a dead lipo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 Decision made: I'm going to remove the currently soldered u/c parts. Then I'm going to assemble the u/c main wire to the bulkhead (double thickness) (even though I've now split them for assembly) because I won't be able to get to the saddle clamps once assembled. Then I'm going to force gently assemble the bulkhead in to the fuselage 'somehow'. Then solder the other u/c wire parts afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Remove some of the fus. cross-members in the vicinity of the u/c. This should give you a bit of flex in the lower fus. sides and allow you to put the formers up inside the fus. at an angle then twist them into place. Goop it all up, re-install the cross-members and the job's a good 'un. ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 On 16/03/2022 at 19:06, Glasshopper said: Use the old fashioned fusewire from an old fashioned electricians shop. Old fashioned? I have a couple of distribution boards that I fitted when we moved in that still use fuse wire! There was only one power point in the whole house when we bought it ? Mind you, it's so old it's 'wired' for gas lights. I have a reel of 24 swg Bare Tinned Copper (BTC) I bought from Potts in Derby a few years ago. It's a 0.5 kg reel and it'll very much more than last me out. I use it for all undercarriage construction etc. There's a price tag of 11p on it, presumably per metre, but I just bought a complete reel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 It's been a while guys. Been laid up with Covid; v.ill for about 7-8 weeks. Largley better now but still get shattering fatigue episodes sometimes. Have managed to do some small bits and pieces and make sloooow progress. I think I'd finished battling with the u/c earlier. Now I've made a new bulkhead for the motor-mount, with captive nuts on the back. No guidance at all on the plan of course; all just done by eye. Motor from 4-Max. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 And I've cut the motor shaft down at the back, so it doesn't touch the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 And Nylok nuts on the back of the captive nuts 'cos why not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn Johnston Posted June 24, 2022 Author Share Posted June 24, 2022 Front (removable) nose-piece coming along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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