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TopFlite 1/7 Spitfire - Advice covering with Koverall which is best dope/PolyC/Stix-IT/Balsaloc etc


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Hi all, Happy New Year!!

 

I'm in process of building a TopFlite 1/7 Spitfire.   Laser 100 FS providing noise.  I've got a nice big 5yrd pack of Sig Koverall for covering.    The kit fuse and wing is mostly made up of sheeted surfaces, the only open surfaces are the control surfaces with ribs.

 

I'm still in construction mode, so I'm planning ahead on the covering.   I quite like the fabric texture finish, also saves me the weight of filling and sanding to smooth.  I'm used to covering film & glass / epoxy approaches, but I've missed the tissue/cloth dope approach.

 

There are a number of approaches, what's the best way to adhere Koverall based on this model being mostly sheeted surface.   

 

I think i've got two methods:

 

Dope approach

Sanding sealer/dope over all surfaces to seal

Non shrinking dope on edges, then drape over roughly cut to shape koverall.  shrink and then fill weave with thinned non-shrinking dope

Prime & paint & fuel proof

 

PolyC/Varnish

Sanding sealer overall surfaces to seal balsa

PolyC on the edges like dope, then lightly shrink koverall

Brush polyC through the sheeted surfaces to fill weave

I'll need to confirm approach for open structures

Prime & paint & fuel proof

 

What's the best approach people have found?  Happy either way, the only kit I have in cupboard towards this is tin of Guild Materials Sanding Sealer, and of course the Koverall.

 

 

 

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I personally use the brown paper method. Applied to sheeted surfaces, use your coverall for the fabric surfaces.

Apply like wall papering, thinned pva.with water, like milk.

Apply to  dull side of brown paper.

Allow 30secs to grow, apply to surface, rubbing out the creases.

Use covering iron, i have a travelling iron, to help  adhering, pva reacts to heat.

Allow to dry overnight, 

Light sand , 600 wet n dry , used dry.

Apply coat of dope to seal surface.

I thin the dope,and  add banana oil, takes out the shrinking effect of dope.

Light sand when dry.- ready for primer etc.

I use automotive " high build" 2 pack.

Fuel proofer - (glow) automotive 2 part lacquer. : 1x coat give  a  matt/satin finish, subsequent coats will result in a gloss finish.

This is my preferred finishing technique.

For finishing colours- B n Q match pots, emulsion, £3 a pot, made to any colour, matt finish.

Hope this helps ?

Cheers Graham.

Ps brown paper method - as used by " Warbird Replicas" modellers, 

Richard Wills - kits ?

Look up / read some of the WR threads , 

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15 minutes ago, gillyg1 said:

I personally use the brown paper method. Applied to sheeted surfaces, use your coverall for the fabric surfaces.

Apply like wall papering, thinned pva.with water, like milk.

Apply to  dull side of brown paper.

Allow 30secs to grow, apply to surface, rubbing out the creases.

Use covering iron, i have a travelling iron, to help  adhering, pva reacts to heat.

Allow to dry overnight, 

Light sand , 600 wet n dry , used dry.

Apply coat of dope to seal surface.

I thin the dope,and  add banana oil, takes out the shrinking effect of dope.

Light sand when dry.- ready for primer etc.

I use automotive " high build" 2 pack.

Fuel proofer - (glow) automotive 2 part lacquer. : 1x coat give  a  matt/satin finish, subsequent coats will result in a gloss finish.

This is my preferred finishing technique.

For finishing colours- B n Q match pots, emulsion, £3 a pot, made to any colour, matt finish.

Hope this helps ?

Cheers Graham.

Ps brown paper method - as used by " Warbird Replicas" modellers, 

Richard Wills - kits ?

Look up / read some of the WR threads , 

 

Thanks for this.   I have come across the brown paper method before, but not applied it.   How hard does the brown paper finish provide in comparison to cloth & dope?   

 

With your approach are you using high build primer (say acrylic) and then B&Q colour emulsion, then the Fuel proofer over the top?   Are you using wet&dry after the emulsion to remove brush or spraying the emulsion ?

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Ok its a relatively soft finish, compared to fibre glass method.

You could use subsequent coats of poly c , to harden up the finish , instead of the dope, as its just a surface sealer.

The more coats of poly c, the more " ding proof".

Method:- primer , light sand ( wet or dry) then colours - emulsion, then when decals, weathering, panel lines, rivets etc,  ie finished : then apply fuel proofer, and yes i spray all mine. Except for "touching in" with a brush.

No its not a real hard finish. But is fairly resilient.

And you realy only need to fuel proof the : engine bay, tank bay , cowling, and exhaust areas.

As using automotive lacquer : 2x part , it sets in about 30 mins.

I got mine from my son, hes a car finisher/ sprayer , runs his own business, same as the brown paper as thats what they use for masking up.

So if you know anyone in that line of business ?

 

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Hi,

 

I've used brown paper and can confirm that it's pretty tough. certainly adds a lot more strength than a film finish. I imagine cloth and dope would be stronger, but as your model is not relying on the covering for structural strength, both are good enough.

 

I spray emulsion with a HVLP type gun, but can't comment on fuel proofers as my models are all electric.

 

Graham

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I will look at the brown paper method.   I have a Warbird Replica spitfire I remember the thread with the Brown paper covering information.  
 

I would still like to use the Koverall on the top flite model as the cloth is sat on the shelf waiting and wanted to get a texture finish.  Anybody out there with recent experience of Koverall either via dope or poly c that can offer any experience the best way with 90% sheeted model?

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