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Cyano and its application


Andy J
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Never had much luck with using cyano as generally I apply far too much to the item to be glued and I end up stick my fingers to the work piece or sticking my fingers together, neither of which works.  Also I find it useless at gluing hardwood so what am I doing wrong?

 

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It is useless for hardwoods, so don’t bother.
As regards using too much, it is astonishing how little is need, and as you go over the joints on the complete unit, practice helps. One trick, glue it up with glue of choice, but tack it with cynosure, saves all the pinning to hold components in place.

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I think the key to success with Cyano is to use the correct viscosity for the job. I always assemble up wing structures (ribs) with thin cyano but use a medium grade for sheeting. Not much use for hardwoods, but it depends on the exact application - lightly abrading the mating surfaces does help and then maybe the  thicker type will be OK. No one size fits all.

 

Edited by Cuban8
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16 hours ago, Andy Joyce said:

Never had much luck with using cyano as generally I apply far too much

 

Sounds daft, but, use less? The bottles as they come are a bit useless for fine application. I find that very thin PTFE tube, 1mm I.D., does the trick, it fits neatly in the nozzle and the sticky stuff only comes out in small drops that way - unless you proper squeeze the bottle.

 

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Try using pipette tips pushed onto the cyano bottle spout. They are sterile and won't cause glue to set I side them. They allow precise application and help prevent over applying when building light structures. They are also useful in preventing the bottle nozzle becoming contaminated and clogging up. They eventually start to clog at the tip but can be cut back a few times with scissors then disposed of and replaced. The bottom has to be trimmed to get a good push fit for most cyano bottles but easily done with a scalpel.

5 Starr products used to sell them at the shows but worked our a bit expensive . I bought some on line , enough for a lifetime as came in bag of 2000 !

To stop glue setting I bottles , never reseal the bottle. I leave mine open with a pipettes attached . If the tip blocks just trim it off or replace the tip.

Edited by Engine Doctor
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Always store cyano in the fridge when not in use.  Fortunately my girlfriend used the stuff at work in a production environment and doesn't question my doing this.  Your experience may vary. ?

 

Aliexpress do applicator nozzles in packs of 100, for under £2 (although VAT will be added):  100 Cyano nozzles

Tacking with cyano, then going round all the joints with Super 'Phatic (from Deluxe Products) gives the speed and accuracy of the cyano, plus the long term strength of an aliphatic joint as it wicks in between the mating parts.

Don't forget that birch ply has an oily surface, and really needs cleaning with a solvent, and lightly abrading, before gluing with what ever you use.

 

Edited by Robin Colbourne
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1 hour ago, Cuban8 said:

preventing cyano bottle nozzles  from clogging up

 

As stated I use thin tube as an applicator/nozzle. I stick a pin in the end of it. Make sure there is no cyano in the tube first otherwise that will set and block the tube. No particular problems with clogging.

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23 hours ago, Cuban8 said:

Any tips for preventing cyano bottle nozzles  from clogging up? Tried various things but nothing really seems to be 100% effective. Once a bottle shows signs of blockage it never seem possible  to get it back to as new condition.

 

Oil. 

Before putting a bottle of cyano into service, give the threads on the bottle and the lids and coating of oil or grease. 

This helps to prevent the build-up of crusty cyano. . . It also stops the lids from welding themselves to the bottle.  Lol. 

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