kevin b Posted February 16, 2022 Share Posted February 16, 2022 (edited) The Marutaka Zero is just about completed (building wise), so I can now start on my mass build project. I decided on a sport model (for a change !) and didn't want to build something too big, or complicated. The MK Joker fits the bill and since I mentioned it there has been a considerable interest in the model. So much so that I have had my arm twisted up my back to laser cut more parts for others to build. If anyone else is interested in joining me building one please PM me and I will add you to the list. I do not intend to produce full kits (been there, done that), but will be happy to supply ribs, formers and canopies. I might be able to do fuselage sides and reinforcements as well, but that could involve big boxes. Over the next few days I will do my sums and see what the costs are going to be. Edited February 16, 2022 by kevin b 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul De Tourtoulon Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 What will be pulling it into the blue yonder ?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 1 hour ago, Paul De Tourtoulon said: What will be pulling it into the blue yonder ?. Probably something oily and noisy. Not quite sure what size yet. Converting to electric would be easy though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 Looks an interesting project Kevin. I wonder how many people would build it with retracts though. Personally I would build with fuselage mounted u/c rather than fixed u/c on the wing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 Good thinking kc, though I intend to build as per the kit. I like the idea of replacing the notched balsa spars with square spruce as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 On studying the plan my thoughts were -- It looks a very simple but smart design. As I fly at an electric only club I would have to modify the front to allow the Lipo to be changed easily. The air intake looks just nice for the ESC to get some cooling. the 5mm by 7mm notched balsa spars would be better if replaced by un-notched 5mm spruce. I hate glass fibre bandages and thought the spruce spars joined by a ply joiner would suffice instead. I liked the notched TE as this gives a better joint and in this case allows rectangular balsa TE instead of a specially shaped piece of balsa TE. I couldn't figure out what item " NBD " was ( below F1 and F2 ) perhaps it's some moulded part? The under wing fairing looks neat. My experience is that such items make covering the wing with film a bit tricky, so gluing it on after wing covering would seem easier. I wonder what the rest of you think...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 I see we have had a bit of magic Kevin ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 On 17/02/2022 at 19:15, EarlyBird said: I see we have had a bit of magic Kevin ? Yes I now have a blue build tag. Cooo ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 No flying (models) today, so I put my brain in gear and sorted out the laser cutting. I can supply parts separately or as combinations. Wing rib sets £11.50 Fuselage formers £2.50 Canopy £10.50 All laser cut parts (as in top photo plus canopy £62.00 Postage and packing will be charged at cost. Payment can be by Bacs, or Paypal. Money will not be requested until parts are packed ready to send. Full size plans will be included with each order FOC. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Kevin, count me in for a set of ribs and fuselage formers please. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 19, 2022 Author Share Posted February 19, 2022 3 hours ago, kc said: Kevin, count me in for a set of ribs and fuselage formers please. Ok Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 19, 2022 Share Posted February 19, 2022 Thank's Kevin - I expect this design will appeal to lots of builders. Whilst studying the plan in conjunction with your drawing of the formers, I wondered how far the ply doubler extends downwards. The plan shows shading down below F12 and all along the wing seating, yet your former F3 seems notched as though the ply does not extend quite the same as the balsa sides at F3. Does it interlock at that point? The ply doubler is shown as 1.5mm rather than the usual .8mm on models this size. Presumably the kit actually has 1.5mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 The doubler is notched as well to take the former and it is 1.5mm thick. I am currently working on my iPad as my computer is out of action, which means I can’t start to download any build photos. Hopefully I can get it repaired quickly. I was having problems and tried to do a system restore. Apparently Windows 10 doesn’t like this and messed up the registry well and truly ! Don’t you just love Microsoft ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 (edited) Well that explains it - probably jigs the whole thing up square. No, but I stick with Windows - better the devil you know....... However someone on the forum a couple of years back said buy a memory stick with Linux Mint loaded ( £7 on Ebay from a reliable supplier) and just plug into USB without loading permanantly. I have to say it works just like Windows, and it might be used to open lost Windows document files too. Edited February 20, 2022 by kc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 26, 2022 Author Share Posted February 26, 2022 Well I finally goy my internet computer back, but the DVD reader doesn't work and I still can't access my emails !!!! Not only that, but the computer was wiped with nothing recoverable and my back up (yes I did do one) only backed up one folder on the drive. Unfortunately I lost a few photos which hadn't been transferred to my main machine (the one I DON'T connect to the internet). Most of the other stuff is recoverable. I bet you can't guess what the lost photos were of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 26, 2022 Share Posted February 26, 2022 Where they of you in a Nurses outfit ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 11 hours ago, john stones 1 - Moderator said: Where they of you in a Nurses outfit ? Sometimes I worry about you John. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Could the lost photos still be on the memory card of the camera or phone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 No KC. I thought I had transferred them, so the camera was cleared. Anyway, back to the plot. I now have a fully functioning internet computer (apart from not being able to access emails until tomorrow). The plan was to build the model to original kit spec and ic powered (it still is), but having lost the first set of build photos I have decided to revert to the original plan "A". That was to build an ic and an electric version to compare them. Paul, our instructor wanted me to build ic and I was thinking of building electric. So this afternoon I will be cutting out another set of parts for the electric version and also some parts for some others, who have asked for them. The first set of canopies have come out ok, so I have asked them to form me some more. The build log will now start with the electric fuselage as soon as I have finished "burning some wood". As the electric version will have a slightly different fuselage I am revising some of the cutting files to suit. Anybody wanting to build this version, rather than the electric one please let me know. The wings will be the same for both models and the undercarriage will be tail dragger configuration. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Any model I build will have to be electric as I fly at an electric only field. I have already prepared some drawings for an electric version with an engine bulkhead inserted 45mm back from the nose. I reckoned that the engine bearers would not be needed and strength would be given by a liteply plate to take the Lipo. My drawing has a separate balsa cowl 45mm long built on a thin ply backplate and attached by the 'keyhole screw' method used in some of Peter Millers recent planes. My plan was for a torque rod u/c attached to fuselage, this means a slight extension to the ply doubler to make a firm fixing. I wonder how that compares to your version Kevin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 Trying to keep as near as I can to original, though your improvements seem logical to me. There is plenty of strength in the fuselage, so there is no need to keep the engine bearers. The tuned pipe / exhaust trough is also not necessary, so that will simplify building. My plan for the motor mount is to double F2, triangulate the corners and fit a motor mount extension. F12 strengthens the underneath as it is ply and the top deck (NBU) can be used as a battery hatch. F22 (the lower battery hatch) can be replaced with balsa as it is not structural. or required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 It's important to keep the original looks and it seemed difficult to do that without moving the engine bulkhead forward. Building a removeable cowl front seemed the only way I could get space for the motor with access to the motor mount bolts etc. I will be interested to see what your ideas are.... The looks seem to depend on the shaping of the block balsa - the razor plane stuff that some hate but I like. The tuned pipe trough and the front inlet look ideal for housing the ESC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted March 2, 2022 Author Share Posted March 2, 2022 Right. The laser has cooled down and it's time to start building (again). So let's get out the building board and get cracking. I just realised my father got me this board over 50 years ago. An architect he knew had worn out the corners with drawing pins, so goodness knows how old it actually is ! First of all the fuselage side parts are assembled and glued together. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin b Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 As I am building for electric I produced a second F2 to reinforce the firewall. I thought I would install the t nuts for the motor as well, but then realised I would have to fit long bolts as I couldn't access them from the front and had to remove them. Time to get out the jig to keep things nice and true. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 What electric motor will be used and will it be possible to remove it if necessary after construction? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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