Cleaning old 2 strokes - Where do I start?

[J D 8]

            Zoom in on my Irvine head in post above, no noticeable damage from Dremel rotary wire brush, made of fine stainless wire which is quite soft. Just like chemicals you do not want to over do it, light touch and goggles must be worn.

[Engine Doctor]

On 14/12/2022 at 09:45, Andy Joyce said:

This thread got me interested in buying an ultrasonic cleaner. What size tank is recommended for jobs associated with engines say up to 20cc.

I bought a 3L model  as this has an inbuilt heater . Below 3L no heater. They then  seem to jump to 6 or 6.5 L that have a drain tap fitted but price jumps accordingly

The 3 L seems plenty big enough for engines beyond 20cc . A 50cc when broken down will fit . I also have an small Aldi unit that I bought some years ago . Works very well, no heater facility  but not really deep enough for anything bigger than a 40 glow. Also has a plastic outer that's not really workshop friendly/ resistant. 

Have a look on  ebay at the offerings.

I wouldn't be without one now as they remove muck from otherwise inaccessible areas. 

If you put what looks like a  lean crankcase into a US cleaner you will be amazed at the crud that settles in the cleaning solution after a short clean.

[Andy J]

Thanks ED. Is the power rating also a deciding factor in which model to select?

[Engine Doctor]

12 minutes ago, Andy Joyce said:

Thanks ED. Is the power rating also a deciding factor in which model to select?

I think the wattage mainly refers to the heating side of things. The heater facility is very slow so really need filling with hot solution or you wait for ages. 

I heat the cleaning solution in an old saucepan on a camping stove and only then use heater to maintain the heat.

I also note that many adds now seem to include heaters on smaller models although the 3L is about as small as I would be comfortable with. This is really down to personal choice ,how often you intend to use it and available space to keep it.

[Nigel R]

20 hours ago, Engine Doctor said:

The only way to remove castor when it's burnt on hard like that is in my experience to bead blast it using fine beads.

 

I can only say good things about ED's method. He has very kindly done a bead blast on an engine for me and it came out looking as good as new.

 

[Nick Stock 2]

Thanks for all input above. 
Got to admit, I’ve never seen breaking bad but I feel I don’t have to after this madness..

 

I bought some antifreeze variant hoping it would do the trick but truth be told after 45 minutes freezing my nads off(!) I really wasn’t having much joy.

 

I think repeated soaks in semi-sizzling antifreeze and vigorous rubbing with a soft scrubber might have helped in the end but only a little.  Anyone have a clue why?

 

so I resorted to using a mild abrasive block - a turquoisey/greenish one that

normally comes as a rotary tool attachment accessory and buffing after.
 

needless to say, it’s not a perfect finish as new but passable imo.

 

have chosen an 18% klotz synthetic mix fuel 15% nitro to try and avoid this situation next time

 

 FYI sink unblocker is the WORST thing to go near these alloys from this experience as I have a few dulled areas as a result but minor changes enough 

[Masher]

I think I have tried pretty much every idea suggested in this and all the other forums. I have found nothing will properly clean a Saito exhaust! The ultrasonic cleaner falls into the category of 'yet another tool that doesn't quite do what you want '. I do find it useful for cleaning plastic parts and wheels though.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Robert Cracknell]

If I can throw in my 2 pence worth....

 

Somebody once told me that baked on castor is nothing more than varnish..! In that case I thought what is the best thing to soften and strip this stuff?

I once put a leaking can of cellulose thinners on an old table top and was surprised to find that this had taken the varnish away right down to the wood.

 

Right, I thought, I bought myself a gallon of low grade stuff (about £10 + VAT from a local motor parts factor), sometimes called gun cleaner and put some in one of those giant pickle jars (ex chip shop if you ask nicely) DONT use anything plastic!

 

Putting a crankcase in one of these for a few days (I didn't say it would be quick) the gunk had softened enough to be cleaned off with an old toothbrush. A bonus is that it doesn't discolour the alloy.  Keep the lid on and top up occasionally with fresh thinners and you can re use it many times.

 

I've never had any casualities but I feel it is better to remove any O rings before pickling..... 

 

Good Luck.....

Edited December 19, 2022 by Robert Cracknell
Spelling

[Engine Doctor]

Cellulose thinners works great in crankcase etc and  most two stroke silencers but won't remove baked on castor on a fourstroke heads or silencers as they get much hotter.

Always worth having a jar around to soak parts prior to cleaning. Simply strain it through some kitchen tissue in a funnel for reuse . Beware though some cheap cellulose thinner /gun cleaner absorbs moisture from atmosphere as it contains a lot of ethanol and will degrade and eventually attack and pit the surface of alloys if left in thinners for too long. It also contains many nasty chemicals that can be absorbed through your skin, Google it . 

For a mild clean of non baked on castor I've found that some of the strong kitchen degreasers worked in with a old tooth brush then rinsed in hot water work very well . I use this for a pre clean/ degrease before anodising bit . Test on a inconspicuous area as some degreasers can turn alloys used for engine castings a very dark grey and look horrible.

[Christopher Wolfe]

Here in Australia I have had quite a bit of success with this product CLR O&G remover.

Sometimes it is simply a matter of applying the liquid to a castor oil encrusted engine component, wait ten minutes and then flush under a tap in conjunction with a bit of a scrub from an old toothbrush.

Possibly you have an equivalent product available in the U.K. ?

[Andy J]

Ordered a 3L Ultrasonic Cleaner on the recommendations of this thread and just wondering if cellulose thinners can be used as the degreasing fluid or is this a major fire risk.

 

See that one person recommended LA's Totally Awesome fluid but are there cheaper alternatives?

[J D 8]

       Cellulose thinner, just don't,  Note ED's post above.

[Engine Doctor]

3 hours ago, Andy Joyce said:

Ordered a 3L Ultrasonic Cleaner on the recommendations of this thread and just wondering if cellulose thinners can be used as the degreasing fluid or is this a major fire risk.

 

See that one person recommended LA's Totally Awesome fluid but are there cheaper alternatives?

If you wish to use cellulose thinners with the US cleaner it must be used in a closed container like a small jam jar or similar . Put parts into jam jar , cover the part with thinners then screw lid on. Now place into the US cleaner and fill it with water. Switch on US cleaner but DONT SWITCH HEATER ON . Only do this outside as cellulose vapours can easily ignite. NEVER use flammable liquids directly in the US cleaner.

Edited December 22, 2022 by Engine Doctor

[Jonathan W]

I use Dirtbusters in my heated ultrasonic cleaner. The product is now sold as a liquid concentrate, although I previously bought mine in powder form. Works great, but needs to be heated.

 

I've also seen good reports for Seaclean2, but not tried it myself.

[J D 8]

1 hour ago, Engine Doctor said:

If you wish to use cellulose thinners with the US cleaner it must be used in a closed container like a small jam jar or similar . Put parts into jam jar , cover the part with thinners then screw lid on. Now place into the US cleaner and fill it with water. Switch on US cleaner but DONT SWITCH HEATER ON . Only do this outside as cellulose vapours can easily ignite. NEVER use flammable liquids directly in the US cleaner.

 And that is why I say just don't.  It only need one mistake.

[Engine Doctor]

1 hour ago, J D 8 said:

 And that is why I say just don't.  It only need one mistake.

There are occasions when a solvent is required to dissolve any debris that would otherwise not be removable in a US bath. Provide that  A, the solvent is in a sealed container and B you perform the cleaning out in the open it should be perfectly safe . The same procedure can be used if using any expensive propriety cleaning fluid.

[Andy J]

Yes was aware of the tip of using a separate glass or plastic container to enclose the object that is being cleaned. That way you at least use less cleaning fluid. The clip I watched on Youtube did suggest petrol was his preferred cleaning solution but will take appropriate cautions when using this.

 

Don't think I will be using Petrol to clean the wife's rings though, so will need to find an alternative fluid for household items.

[Jonathan W]

1 hour ago, Andy Joyce said:

Don't think I will be using Petrol to clean the wife's rings though, so will need to find an alternative fluid for household items.

 

It can be hard work trying to be helpful sometimes. How about Seaclean2

[Engine Doctor]

22 hours ago, Jonathan W said:

 

It can be hard work trying to be helpful sometimes. How about Seaclean2

For items that only need a gentle clean like jewellery and watch straps etc I found that just a warm solution of fairy liquid works fine but SeaClean should also work . Again , if you don't have enough to fill the and cover items in the Cleaner basin the put items into a small glass jar and cover with solution then stand into the US cleaner and fill that with water to the same level as that in the jar. The US waves travel through the glass just the same . 

PS be careful with jewellery as some stones can badly  be damaged by ultrasonic waves 

Edited December 24, 2022 by Engine Doctor

[Andy J]

Cleaner arrived this morning so quickly tried it out using cellulose thinners in a sealed jar sitting in a water bath. Certainly must be doing its job as it quickly became discoloured cleaning a OS 20 Max cylinder head. Noted that after about 10mins the thinners does became warm so think if petrol was used as the cleaning fluid I would have to be very careful to avoid cleaning times >10mins.

[Engine Doctor]

 

2 hours ago, Andy Joyce said:

Cleaner arrived this morning so quickly tried it out using cellulose thinners in a sealed jar sitting in a water bath. Certainly must be doing its job as it quickly became discoloured cleaning a OS 20 Max cylinder head. Noted that after about 10mins the thinners does became warm so think if petrol was used as the cleaning fluid I would have to be very careful to avoid cleaning times >10mins.

Cellulose thinners are just as dangerous as petrol ! I hope you did that outside ? 

Edited December 28, 2022 by Engine Doctor

[Christopher Wolfe]

Anti-freeze ch

On 16/12/2022 at 11:10, Nick Stock 2 said:

Thanks for all input above. 
Got to admit, I’ve never seen breaking bad but I feel I don’t have to after this madness..

 

I bought some antifreeze variant hoping it would do the trick but truth be told after 45 minutes freezing my nads off(!) I really wasn’t having much joy.

Not all anti-freeze is created equal nowadays so if your 'variant' is not pure ethylene glycol then it might explain your poor results.

 

Chris

 

[Andy J]

On 28/12/2022 at 17:45, Christopher Wolfe said:

Not all anti-freeze is created equal nowadays so if your 'variant' is not pure ethylene glycol then it might explain your poor results.

 

Chris

 

That may explain why it did not work for me.

[Engine Doctor]

Has anyone tried the new acid based antifreeze in a US cleaner ? It's designed to keep corrosion at bay and keeps alloys clean . I have a can and will try it on the next really dirty engine I service.