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Converting WOT4 MK2 (IC version) to electric power


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Hi All,

 

I have a WOT4 MK2 (A-CF002/LEO) ARTF that has been in a box in the loft for years and I want to convert it to electric power.

 

From what I gather, it looks like there were different versions of the the MK2, I think the later one could be either IC or EP but I assume the version I have is the earlier iteration and is for IC only. The IC/EP manual (a-cf002-a) shows that the cap at the front cockpit area is removable and has a spring-loaded lever, but mine doesn't have this. The Foam-e version (a-cf003a) shows a hatch on the underside in front of the UC, I also found another conversion document (Wot4-Elec-Conv - not sure if this is intended for the ARTF) which shows a hatch being cut on the underside behind the UC.

 

I plan to use 3S 5A  or 4S 3.3A Lipo's. Any recommendations or words of advice on how best to approach this before I embark ?

 

Thank You,

 

Paul

 

 

a-cf002-a.pdf a-cf003a.pdf Wot4-Elec-Conv.pdf

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I converted a Wot4 Pro, which was designed for IC only, to electric. I cut the top of the fuselage to form a hatch which is attached with magnets. Fitting from the top avoids having to invert the model to change batteries. This was important to me as the model is a winter hack and as our field becomes muddy and inaccessible by car, so carrying a model stand is to be avoided.

 

The standard Electric Pack http://www.ripmax.com/Item.aspx?ItemID=A-CF002/ELP wooden parts fitted perfectly.

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I powered my ARTF Wot4 electrically about 3 years ago (certainly pre pandemic!).  This is the one originally with the option for either glow or electric power and additional parts were offered depending on which choice you made.  I did my own thing as I fitted a Foxy motor I already had and that would probably not have suited the kit items.

 

Battery access is via a hatch at the front where the fuel tank goes. I use a 4S 4AH LiPo and, if anything the CoG is slightly forward for optimum aerobatic performance.

 

DSCN2159.thumb.JPG.b75ff80a8ac00531176a242893d1bbf9.JPG       DSCN2162.thumb.JPG.8c211051ca0ed98740de23fdcb4fda4b.JPG

 

The motor mounting on 4mm bolts and a glass fibre plate.            A 4S 4AH fits quite neatly and the CoG is slightly forward.  The hatch opening is fitted as standard.

 

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The completed model.

 

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Thanks for your replies guys, If I can get the battery to fit in from the top without having to take the wing off then that would be great, I'm not sure what the differences are between the WOT4 MK2 and the WOT4 Pro, is the size the same ? John did the standard elec kit all fit in with no other mods required ? It looks like the instructions were saying about a protruding tab that is suppose to interlock into the battery tray to hold it in position which I don't appear to have.

Edited by Paul Turner 2
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The WOT4 Pro has bigger control surfaces & was extensively lightened but is otherwise dimensionally the same as the Wot4 ARTF IC/EP, ie:

Specifications

Wingspan - 1334mm (52.6")

Length - 1185mm (46.5")

 

Mine had the tab referred to on the sub -former just to the rear of the undercarriage position, so everything fitted as per the instructions. 

 

I only used the wooden parts of the conversion kit which I found for a few pounds on EBay (it actually came from Inwoods), I guess they had split out the contents for someone who just wanted the motor mount. I fitted the following Axi motor and Axi motor mount:

 

 https://www.electricwingman.com/wot4-mk2-artf-power-system.aspx

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I've got a Wot 4 mk 2 electric. Firstly the electric conversion kit comes with a huge chunk of metal to get the balance right except it didn't. I ended up with a larger heavier motor, and running it on a 5S battery simply to get the balance right without even more weight upfront.

 

It certainly goes well with that setup, and flown a tad more gently will fly for over 20 minutes  at a time. I do have to take the wing off to change the battery.

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Paul,

 

my three and a half (don’t ask) have all been ARTF with the electric conversion kit and 4 Max motor and Jeti esc. I fly on 4S 5 amp LiPos which just fit and the c of gs have been just right.   Given how floaty they can be, the extra weight is probably beneficial.   Installation is as shown by others, through the top hatch so leaving the wing on.

 

Hatches on mine have twin pegs at the front and a spring latch behind, as out of the box.   I don’t trust magnets alone.   There’s lots of room and access into the fus via the wing hole to instal the battery plate and some foam under the LiPo with a single beefy Velcro strap at the front so the wing can stay on.

 

U/c mounting plates tend to be a weakness and the metal u/cs are a bit bouncy.   I have added some glass to the plate.   A c/f tube instead of the huge dowel as elevator pushrod is thinner and lighter too and plenty stiff enough.   The rudder servo might benefit from being raised a little to keep the pushrod and the pull-pull rudder cables well away from each other.

 

Hope this helps!
 
BTC

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3 hours ago, Andy48 said:

flown a tad more gently will fly for over 20 minutes  at a time. I do have to take the wing off to change the battery.

 

I guess it's not so bad having to remove the wing if you're getting 20 min each go!

 

3 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

U/c mounting plates tend to be a weakness and the metal u/cs are a bit bouncy.   I have added some glass to the plate.

 

I was considering strengthening the undercarriage fixing on the fuse, but hadn't considered how yet - any pics you can provide on what you guys have done would be helpful ?

 

3 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

A c/f tube instead of the huge dowel as elevator pushrod is thinner and lighter too and plenty stiff enough.   The rudder servo might benefit from being raised a little to keep the pushrod and the pull-pull rudder cables well away from each other.

 

Cool - Will keep these mods in mind, is there any other weaknesses or beneficial mods you recommend?

 

1 hour ago, Andy48 said:

Better still to have an arming plug.

 

Being honest, don't know what this is - will look up

 

Cheers all,

 

Paul

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3 hours ago, Bruce Collinson said:

A c/f tube instead of the huge dowel as elevator pushrod is thinner and lighter too and plenty stiff enough.

 

I usually use 3mm carbon tube with 2mm threaded rod epoxied in at each end but on this occasion I used the dowel supplied fully intending to replace it once I had the stock.  It works perfectly OK with the dowel so, needless to say, I haven't, as yet, replaced it ?   Carbon tube works very well, even as thin as 3mm.  My almost completed Ranns Chaos is so fitted as is my Das Liddle Stik.

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