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Chilli Breeze - Irvine 36


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14 hours ago, MikeQ said:

Hi

 

yes, Balsa is unbelievable.  I have a decent stash but am loathed to use it.   I could eat the price but it’s getting hold of decent quality stuff for whatever you do pay.  I’ve asked this question before and it’s kind of gone round the doors but, where would you get 8’x4’ x4” sheets (or as close to that size) of foam for cutting wings these days.  Used to be able to get single sheets from the LocalModelShop but that was 20 years ago.  
 

I like built up wings but foam can be useful.  Used my last little piece a year or two ago to cut a 1980s Obelix slope soarer flying wing if any of you remember that far back.

 

 

Hi try contacting Saimaxx building supplies they list 8 x4 sheets 100 thick at £29.50 each . They should be able to give you local stockist . They list it as EPS70.

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Veneer has become expensive so check the price locally before you buy the foam!

Normally one needs 1 pound per cu foot weight foam and obeche veneer for model plane wings.  Other veneers may well suit as the weight is not much different but the cost and size available may be the deciding factor.

Some foam wings were only partially veneered - LE and TE, centre section plus capstrips - rather like a built up wing.  Saves cost and weight.   Found on Avicraft kits of the past, like Moronic etc.

Edited by kc
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kc, that's impressively minimal use of material, but way too much effort for me!

 

As stated above, I'm mostly sold on hobbycraft foamboard for ribs, wherever possible, it costs peanuts and is easy to cut to shape. One drawback, it is quite thick at 5mm, so tapered wings need a light touch with a long sanding block to get things fitting nicely. Can be easily reinforced with liteply riblets for e.g. UC mounts or wing dowels or whatever.

 

The biggest material cost in wings is the sheeting, anyway.

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I notice obeche veneer is either unobtainable in large sheets or is expensive. For covering foam wings I have used 1000 grade lining type wall paper and pound shop PVA. The only wood required is a trailing edge to mount ailerons. An advantage of doing it this way as opposed to using a latex contact cement is that there is "slip" between the core and the covering before the glue sets so it doesn't accidentally become twisted.

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Do you use a balsa LE Andy?   And do you paper right over the TE?  Presumably glassfibre on the centre section as normal?

Anyone  planning to collect a big sheet of foam - it would be best to plan in advance how it should be cut to maximise it's use.    Unless you have huge estate car or van that can take an 8 by 4 ft sheet!  Take a handsaw and ruler.

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KC, All the ones I have done so far have had the leading foam edge wrapped around. I have tried various methods for the centre section from glass to epoxy with more lining paper.

Lining paper method does pull tight on to the foam as it shrinks when it dries out so it can leave a pattern of the foam granules on the outside this shouldn't be problem with pink or blue foam.

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Hi

 

Used to use Obechii but the swapped to balsa for veneering cores.

I’ve had success with light/medium 3/32 straight grained balsa applied with PVA.  
Especially if glassing.  On the subject of glassing.  Try Peel Ply.  It really takes the pain out of it.

 

I’ll be going built up wing on this build but will check out the foam supplier mentioned.

 

cheers

 

mike

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Yes that’s the guy.

I have built all of his Cat series. Some several times, like this one. This time I’m making it from my large box of odds and sods left over from other projects.

so far I have only bought 4 x 1/16 sheets to do the wings.

I have joined a few half sheets together, but I’m getting there.

Only the rudder to make.

 

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  • 1 year later...

Hello

 

thought I’d knock this Chilli Breeze out just before getting really started on two glider projects.  I’m attempting to speed build it 🤣.  The pipe is 50g heavier than the silencer but I figure that can be compensated for by its weight being closer to the CG, stretching the fuse 1” at rear, using micro/mini servos as opposed to S148s like back in the day.  Separate servos in each foam wing and fixed UC.  Should still come out lighter than the first one I had which had an Irvine 40 squeezed up front and that was a heavy motor.


Tail feathers 90% sorted.  I like to cut sheet sides out slightly (say 1/8 to 3/16”) bigger all round and leave for a couple of days to settle as they sometimes ‘move’ once the stresses are released, then cut out final shape.

 

i went lazy and had the wings cut as a father’s day present.  Will use closed loop rudder with elevator servo mounted at rear of fuse.  Was thinking Savox 255MG all round but might not be robust even though they have the performance.

 

 

 

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Hello

 

bit more progress.  Going with HS85MGs in wings and Hs225MGs on rudder and elevators as other have recently.

 

made the fuse a tad wider just to get the engine mount in there with a little more clearance.

 

mike

 

 

 

 

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One for the electric flight experts.  I have a new 2S 500mAh Lipo and a new 3A UBEC lying around doing nothing.  The servos above aren’t rated for 2S 7.4v.  Gut feeling on whether the 3A UBEC would have the juice to power the HS85MG/HS225MG above?

 

cheers

 

mike

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As per usual, as soon as you ask something you find more details yourself.

 

https://www.4-max.co.uk/servo-hitec-HS-225MG.html

https://www.4-max.co.uk/servo-hitec-HS-85MG.html
 

i’m thinking with the stall current listed, even if  servos weren’t stressed anywhere near that far the 3A UBEC might be a bit low rated?
 

mike

 

PS Now I’m thinking I’m being a tightwad for the sake of a 800mAH NimH 😂

Edited by MikeQ
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Hello

 

Decided to go with servos above, except will have a Spektrum A5040 servo mounted in rear fuselage on elevator with an 800mAh 6v Nimh which isn’t much heavier than the 2S 500mAh/UBEC I was thinking of.

 

will use a Ripmax plastic or JP Ali spinner depending how it balances out.  If anyone has a black 2” Goldberg spinner  (I had same same on my original Chillis and I like the shape) they want to sell I might be interested 😀

 

 

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Edited by MikeQ
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 It more progress.

 

used 5mm depron as a crutch.  Only an extra 3g but adds some stiffness for not a lot of weight.  Going to need the weight at the rear end.  The elevator servo is a bit clunky at the backend but again, will help with weight.  Used a couple of 1/64 ply doublers on top of existing ones in tail area.  Will add a small ‘ballast’ box too under the tail.

 

 

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Hello

 

bit more work to do on cowl/motor and tail end and should be ready to cover.  Unimaginatively going for the exact eye burning scheme I used on my previous two Chillis.  fluro and sunglasses all round.

 

mike

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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