Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Hi folks this is going to be my first review on here, I hope modellers will find it interesting. Just got this kit a couple of weeks ago. I did order the kit in 2018 and its been on order for 4 years, so its finally arrived, (not original price though its slightly different). Please feel free to comment on the build as it progresses. A big thankyou to RapidRc for finally getting the kit. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 (edited) Hi Started to unbox items, all items are superbly packaged no chance of damage, the fus. very impressive its a composite structure laminated with ply and carbon. Front firewall all been made out of carbon and ply very nice. This looks like Blackhorse have upped their game on kit manufacture. Edited May 3, 2022 by Peter Robinson 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Some more pictures of the Fus. getting more impressed by the quality of the kit. The covering not one wrinkle in sight and nice matt finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hangarqueen Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 Love the Lysander. I used to share the landing circuit with a restored Lysander, in the nineties. It was a very impressive airplane, both on the ground and in the air (you could quickly locate it around you by the blue smoke trail it left behind ? ) I'll be following this one with interest. Does it still have the (too) long nose cowl? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Yes it does have the long cowl, its a shame, it needs the length to accommodate the petrol engine etc. If you went electric should not be a problem to cut it down a bit fiddly to do. This model will be powered by a DLE30 with on board start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted May 3, 2022 Share Posted May 3, 2022 A club mate has the earlier version almost ready to fly. Laser 180 for power and the master plan is to test fly it this friday before taking it to old warden on saturday assuming no maintenance issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 (edited) Hi Jon I flew the earlier blackhorse version in 2018 at rchotel (electric version) it flew quite happily on rudder and elevator and very stable in flight. That prompted me to order one. Peter Edited May 3, 2022 by Peter Robinson 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 3, 2022 Author Share Posted May 3, 2022 Looking at the wings absolutely superb no wrinkles even have carbon at the wing root and servo fixings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 4, 2022 Author Share Posted May 4, 2022 Hi folks Thought I make a start with the wings. Knowing problems with ARTF kits in general started to seal all the edges with matt fuel proofer ( some gloss finishes I use nail varnish) so they do not start to lift. They always seem to leave an exposed edge to the airflow which can lift up and look untidy, so going round the leading edges, flaps ailerons, servo box covers and servo bays. Its a bit tedious but is saves problems later on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 4 years!? You're a VERY patient man.... Watching with interest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 movie.mp4 Hi Sorted out the DLE30 engine and onboard starter for the Lysander everything seems to be working ok ready to install. Working on the navigation tip lights tonight in each wing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Is the starter motor permanently engaged to the engine or does it disconnect like the old Bendix mechanisms on cars? I've always liked Lysanders since the days as a child we used to carve them from pieces of firewood - probably the only similarity to the full-size was the wing shape ? This one is a bit outside my price range - or at least the price range I'd happily commit to the air and enjoy flying but it certainly looks impressive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Hi, inside the large main gear there is a one way bearing similar to a bicycle, so once the engine is running its freewheeling. I think they call them a sprag clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 I see, it's effectively a freewheel mechanism with a rachet and pawls. I've taken a few of those apart in my time - occasionally unintentionally whilst actually riding the bike ? The only thing about the pedal cycle version is that it makes a noise when freewheeling as the pawl(s) are spring-loaded and rest on the rachet until you start pedalling (ie starting the engine in this case) and the pawl(s) engage on the rachet. It's certainly a lot less faff than either hand or external electric starters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrunner Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Very cool on board starter Peter, I hope you have a safety catch on the start button or you could have a nasty suprise! Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Its controlled by the trainer switch no problem setting up a master switch. The electronics only allow a 2 second burst each time. The Lysander will have another novelty in they will be no Rx switch it will be all controlled via the Tx. So to power the model all that is required is to flick a switch to on, Tx will ask you 'do you wish power up the model' and confirm on the yes button and the model power up without removing canopy's etc or touching the model. Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Whilst that is fine if you're flying the model regularly (and fairly frequently), there will be a small battery drain as long as it's connected. If you're not intending to fly for (say) a few weeks, it would still be a good idea to disconnect the battery. Nevertheless, this is a stunning model. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Hi Yeah agree, after every flying day I always disconnect all power supplies from all my models until the next flying session (it usually weekend to weekend). To be able to charge the batteries they need to be disconnected. Haven't decided yet on power supplies if I can use LIFE or NIMAH SUB C it all depends on c&g and were they end up. Hopefully with the on board starter batteries will be inside the fus. somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 10, 2022 Author Share Posted May 10, 2022 (edited) Hi folks, back on the building board, fitting the LED navigation lights to the wing tips a slow process waiting for the canopy glue drying with the plastic parts. will be complete by tonight just the last lens cover to fit and then black vinyl tape over the edges to tidy them up and seal the edges. Then I can start on control surfaces and servo installs. Edited May 10, 2022 by Peter Robinson 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 11, 2022 Author Share Posted May 11, 2022 (edited) Hi Finished the navigation lights off last night with some trim and matt fuel proofer. Looking at hinges for the flaps, the kit uses lookalike robart hinges for ailerons and flaps. They supply two sizes short and long, long for the flaps. These are gong to take a while to fit did not have time last night to glue but tested fitting them, need to watch the levels especially on the flaps making sure you glue them flush to the surfaces. Ailerons are standard setup. Definitely need 30 min epoxy for this job. Fitted one aileron servo temporary with extension lead, could not use the string pull through they glued them in to well but was not a problem feeding ex lead through. It was a bit awkward drilling the holes at a angle but it can be done suggest you use allen driver type screws makes life a lot easier. it needs to come out anyway for setting up the correct angle on the spline for the pushrod. Edited May 11, 2022 by Peter Robinson 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Engine Doctor Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 On 05/05/2022 at 11:58, Geoff S said: I see, it's effectively a freewheel mechanism with a rachet and pawls. I've taken a few of those apart in my time - occasionally unintentionally whilst actually riding the bike ? The only thing about the pedal cycle version is that it makes a noise when freewheeling as the pawl(s) are spring-loaded and rest on the rachet until you start pedalling (ie starting the engine in this case) and the pawl(s) engage on the rachet. It's certainly a lot less faff than either hand or external electric starters. Hi Geoff S . No ratchets or Pawls. Usually rollers that roll in one direction and lock up in the other. Hence they run silently. Have not stripped one to finout how they work yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 Something's got to stop the roller running both ways and I expect it will be a pawl somewhere and probably engaging in a ratchet. Whatever the mechanism is, it would be interesting to know. Perhaps an eccentric device that relies on friction? Seems a clever piece of kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted May 11, 2022 Share Posted May 11, 2022 No pawls or ratchets, these are used a lot in model helicopters for autorotation freewheels. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 13, 2022 Author Share Posted May 13, 2022 Managed to do some more work on the Lysander last night, hinge time. Fitted and glued all the hinges for both ailerons no problems found just took most of the evening had to countersink a small amount so the hinges seated flush. Instructions called for 12mm movement I manged to have 20mm throw with the small gap. Tonight if I get chance do the dreaded flaps probably only one side as they are a bit more fiddly. Looking at the control surfaces I think I will buy some camouflage paint to hide the grey covering along the hinge lines so it blends in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Robinson 9 Posted May 18, 2022 Author Share Posted May 18, 2022 (edited) Managed to do some more to the Lysander (busy flying over weekend). Assembled the flaps to the wing dry no glue to get a feel how they went together and positioning. Using 5min epoxy carefully I glued the flap side with the robart pin hinges (supplied) and assembled the flap in its final position in the wing. Waited for it to dry and then glued the wing side, you must be care full on both sides the epoxy tends to ooze out of the holes so some tissue with epoxy thinners to clean up around the hinge point. Watch out for the alignment on the top of the wing so that the flap is flush with the top part of the wing. Edited May 18, 2022 by Peter Robinson 9 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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