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Blackhorse new Lysander kit


Peter Robinson 9
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Hi folks this is going to be my first review on here, I hope modellers will find it interesting. Just got this kit a couple of weeks ago. I did order the kit in 2018 and its been on order for 4 years, so its finally arrived, (not original price though its slightly different). Please feel free to comment on the build as it progresses.

A big thankyou to RapidRc for finally getting the kit.

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Hi

Started to unbox items, all items are superbly packaged no chance of damage, the fus. very impressive its a composite structure laminated with ply and carbon. Front firewall all been made out of carbon and ply very nice. This looks like Blackhorse have upped their game on kit manufacture.

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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Love the Lysander.  I used to share the landing circuit with a restored Lysander, in the nineties.  It was a very impressive airplane, both on the ground and in the air (you could quickly locate it around you by the blue smoke trail it left behind ? )

I'll be following this one with interest.

Does it still have the (too) long nose cowl?

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Hi folks

Thought I make a start with the wings. Knowing problems with ARTF kits in general started to seal all the edges with matt fuel proofer ( some gloss finishes I use nail varnish) so they do not start to lift. They always seem to leave an exposed edge to the airflow which can lift up and look untidy, so going round the leading edges, flaps ailerons, servo box covers and servo bays. Its a bit tedious but is saves problems later on.

 

 

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Is the starter motor permanently engaged to the engine or does it disconnect like the old Bendix mechanisms on cars?

 

I've always liked Lysanders since the days as a child we used to carve them from pieces of firewood - probably the only similarity to the full-size was the wing shape ?  This one is a bit outside my price range - or at least the price range I'd happily commit to the air and enjoy flying but it certainly looks impressive.

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I see, it's effectively a freewheel mechanism with a rachet and pawls.  I've taken a few of those apart in my time - occasionally unintentionally whilst actually riding the bike ? The only thing about the pedal cycle version is that it makes a noise when freewheeling as the pawl(s) are spring-loaded and rest on the rachet until you start pedalling (ie starting the engine in this case) and the pawl(s) engage on the rachet.

 

It's certainly a lot less faff than either hand or external electric starters.

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Its  controlled by the trainer switch no problem setting up a master switch. The electronics only allow a 2 second burst each time. The Lysander will have another novelty in they will be no Rx switch it will be all controlled via the Tx. So to power the model all that is required is to flick a switch to on, Tx will ask you 'do you wish power up the model' and confirm on the yes button and the model power up without removing canopy's etc or touching the model.

Peter

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Whilst that is fine if you're flying the model regularly (and fairly frequently), there will be a small battery drain as long as it's connected.  If you're not intending to fly for (say) a few weeks, it would still be a good idea to disconnect the battery.

 

Nevertheless, this is a stunning model.

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Hi

Yeah agree, after every flying day I always disconnect all power supplies from all my models until the next flying session (it usually weekend to weekend). To be able to charge the batteries they need to be disconnected. Haven't decided yet on power supplies if I can use LIFE or NIMAH SUB C it all depends on c&g and were they end up. Hopefully with the on board starter batteries will be inside the fus. somewhere.

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Hi folks, back on the building board, fitting the LED navigation lights to the wing tips a slow process waiting for the canopy glue drying with the plastic parts. will be complete by tonight just the last lens cover to fit and then  black vinyl tape over the edges to tidy them up and seal the edges. Then I can start on control surfaces and servo installs.855166637_image3(1).thumb.jpeg.452ac26ea5be0fa875670fb5e4f5b095.jpeg1145071261_image1(2).thumb.jpeg.ef10370f0a607bd979df604e3ad3364b.jpeg614349391_image0(5).thumb.jpeg.4623f4b8ee565508304450432bbc4f99.jpeg855166637_image3(1).thumb.jpeg.452ac26ea5be0fa875670fb5e4f5b095.jpeg1783426716_image4(1).thumb.jpeg.8f14997aa2a36c0d9016b681ad0dca6e.jpeg

 

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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Hi

Finished the navigation lights off last night with some trim and matt fuel proofer. Looking at hinges for the flaps, the kit uses lookalike robart hinges for ailerons and flaps. They supply two sizes short and long, long for the flaps. These are gong to take a while to fit did not have time last night to glue but tested fitting them, need to watch the levels especially on the flaps making sure you glue them flush to the surfaces. Ailerons are standard setup. Definitely need 30 min epoxy for this job. Fitted one aileron servo temporary with extension lead, could not use the string pull through they glued them in to well but was not a problem feeding ex lead through. It was a bit awkward drilling the holes at a angle but it can be done suggest you use allen driver type screws makes life a lot easier. it needs to come out anyway for setting up the correct angle on the spline for the pushrod.

 

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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On 05/05/2022 at 11:58, Geoff S said:

I see, it's effectively a freewheel mechanism with a rachet and pawls.  I've taken a few of those apart in my time - occasionally unintentionally whilst actually riding the bike ? The only thing about the pedal cycle version is that it makes a noise when freewheeling as the pawl(s) are spring-loaded and rest on the rachet until you start pedalling (ie starting the engine in this case) and the pawl(s) engage on the rachet.

 

It's certainly a lot less faff than either hand or external electric starters.

Hi Geoff S . No ratchets or Pawls.  Usually rollers that roll in one direction and lock up in the other. Hence they run silently. Have not stripped one to finout how they work yet.

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Something's got to stop the roller running both ways and I expect it will be a pawl somewhere and probably engaging in a ratchet.  Whatever the mechanism is, it would be interesting to know.  Perhaps an eccentric device that relies on friction?  Seems a clever piece of kit.

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Managed to do some more work on the Lysander last night, hinge time. Fitted and glued all the hinges for both ailerons no problems found just took most of the evening had to countersink a small amount so the hinges seated flush.  Instructions called for 12mm movement I manged to have 20mm throw with the small gap. Tonight if I get chance do the dreaded flaps probably only one side as they are a bit more fiddly. Looking at the control surfaces I think I will buy some camouflage paint to hide the grey covering along the hinge lines so it blends in.

 

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Managed to do some more to the Lysander (busy flying over weekend). Assembled the flaps to the wing dry no glue to get a feel how they went together and positioning. Using 5min epoxy carefully I glued the flap side with the robart pin hinges (supplied) and assembled the flap in its final position in the wing. Waited for it to dry and then glued the wing side, you must be care full on both sides the epoxy tends to ooze out of the holes so some tissue with epoxy thinners to clean up around the hinge point. Watch out for the alignment on the top of the wing so that the flap is flush with the top part of the wing.

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Edited by Peter Robinson 9
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