Steve Colman Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 I haven't built from a kit in over 30 years, mostly ARTF's and foamies, but now time's are a changing with this new project. I will try to take some pics along the way but be advised it won't be a fast build. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattyB Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 Nice. Electric version or bungee/winch launched? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 21 minutes ago, MattyB said: Nice. Electric version or bungee/winch launched? Electric MattyB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 I have two of those,one electric, one bungee or rather the one badged as the Circle Dancer, it's a nice model and flies well. What motor are you going to use, the nose is only 28mm or thereabouts internally so it can be a tight fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 (edited) Shaun, I have 3 motors available. Two very similar at 28mm dia, one Kv1100 at 40g, the other Kv1000 at 47g. Both would provide sufficient power on 3S with a 9x5 prop for example. I plan to do a dry run later today in order to evaluate the available space. If these turn out to be too much of a tight fit I have a little Mpx 2316/1400Kv at 43g with a dia of 23mm with a reported output of 120w which again should be enough for my use. Failing all of the above, then unfortunately a rethink will be in order and more outlay which I want to avoid if possible. Edited May 5, 2022 by Steve Colman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 The 2316 might be the best bet, it will allow a bit of room for the leads to run down the side of the motor. I fitted a Hacker A10-7L geared motor which delivers 118W on a 3S 500mAh driving a 12x10 Cam-Carbon prop. Rate of climb is about 6 metres/sec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted May 5, 2022 Author Share Posted May 5, 2022 Shaun, I think you might be right re the smaller motor. I did a test fit with a 28mm dia motor and it was tight even without the triangular cross section pieces in place. I'm really impressed how these modern kits go tegether. As well as the front of the fuselage to check the motor fit I dry assembled the tailplane and fin/rudder and all the parts slotted together more or less perfectly. I'm pretty sure I'm going to enjoy this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 The fuselage, tail and fin are very easy, the wing however is a bit more difficult. The main spar centre web is very light soft vertical grain balsa and I lost count of how many times I broke it and had to glue it back together again. When the wing is fully assembled the spar is very strong. Make sure that you open out the Kevlar thread so it's nice and thin when reinforcing the wing joiner boxes otherwise the top and bottom spruce spars won't stick to the joiner boxes properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Colman Posted May 6, 2022 Author Share Posted May 6, 2022 35 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said: The fuselage, tail and fin are very easy, the wing however is a bit more difficult. The main spar centre web is very light soft vertical grain balsa and I lost count of how many times I broke it and had to glue it back together again. When the wing is fully assembled the spar is very strong. Make sure that you open out the Kevlar thread so it's nice and thin when reinforcing the wing joiner boxes otherwise the top and bottom spruce spars won't stick to the joiner boxes properly. Thanks for the tips Shaun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 Steve, some years ago the motor I was fitting to a glider was a very tight fit such that the motor wires inside the fuselage were in danger of rubbing the spinning rotor. My solution was to take the wires outside the fuselage past the motor, then back in to connect to the ESC. I made a small conduit out of Ali sheet to protect the exposed wires and when painted, it didn’t look too bad. It may sound an odd solution but it was the motor I wanted to use and it worked for me. Alternatively buy a geared in-runner if your 2316 1400kv turns out to be not ideal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 And I didn't bother with the bit of long thin balsa that you're supposed to attach the control snakes to before you poke it down the fuselage tube. It's much easier to fit the snakes without it, mine are just glued at the front and back and everything works fine. I had to trim a bit off the base of the tailplane mount before it was glued in to reduce the angle at which the snake exited for the elevator otherwise there was too much friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun Walsh Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 1 hour ago, Piers Bowlan said: Steve, some years ago the motor I was fitting to a glider was a very tight fit such that the motor wires inside the fuselage were in danger of rubbing the spinning rotor. My solution was to take the wires outside the fuselage past the motor, then back in to connect to the ESC. I made a small conduit out of Ali sheet to protect the exposed wires and when painted, it didn’t look too bad. It may sound an odd solution but it was the motor I wanted to use and it worked for me. Alternatively buy a geared in-runner if your 2316 1400kv turns out to be not ideal. If you do that you must be careful to ensure that the folding prop blade won't damage the fairing and wires when the motor starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 43 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said: If you do that you must be careful to ensure that the folding prop blade won't damage the fairing and wires when the motor starts. … hence the ali conduit to protect the wires, wasn’t a problem in the end. Nice looking kit by the way ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piers Bowlan Posted May 6, 2022 Share Posted May 6, 2022 (edited) You can also turn some motors round so that the wires exit at the back. Would mean making a ply bulkhead to bolt it too and glue it within the fuselage. Obviously you wouldn’t utilise the cross mount. I don’t know if one of your 28mm dia. motors would suit in this respect Steve. Edited May 6, 2022 by Piers Bowlan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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