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Kavan Resco F3-RES 2m Build Log


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A little more progress with the completion of the tailplane pylon.

 

Although straight forward, careful study of the plan is important as there are a few areas where the plan is inaccurately drawn, the parts don't match what is drawn and the instructions for this are woeful and confusing with very poor photos which also don't exactly correspond to what is written.

 

However,  the pylon is complete and fits the boom as it should with the tailplane mounted. Nothing glued in place yet though, that comes much later.

 

 

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Agree with you about the elevator slot. The control horn slot in my elevator is a couple of mm off-centre, makes the pushrod run slightly easier. I built an earlier version for bungee launch and the slot is very off centre on that one as the pushrod exits the tail boom at the side rather than the centre/top.

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33 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said:

Agree with you about the elevator slot. The control horn slot in my elevator is a couple of mm off-centre, makes the pushrod run slightly easier. I built an earlier version for bungee launch and the slot is very off centre on that one as the pushrod exits the tail boom at the side rather than the centre/top.

Shaun, the control horn slot is 10mm off centre. The photos in the manual still show the pushrod exiting the pylon and boom on the left hand side which adds to the confusion. In my opinion the manual needs to be re-written with reference to this part of the build and the parts need to match what is shown on the plan.

 

I know the model was updated with the wooden pylon to meet competition requirements but I imagine the original boom with the moulded in pylon would probably be a better bet for the average sport flyer and probably lighter too. My pylon comes in at 5.4 grams which will increase when bonded to the boom.

Edited by Steve Colman
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52 minutes ago, Steve Colman said:

Shaun, the control horn slot is 10mm off centre. The photos in the manual still show the pushrod exiting the pylon and boom on the left hand side which adds to the confusion. In my opinion the manual needs to be re-written with reference to this part of the build and the parts need to match what is shown on the plan.

 

I know the model was updated with the wooden pylon to meet competition requirements but I imagine the original boom with the moulded in pylon would probably be a better bet for the average sport flyer and probably lighter too. My pylon comes in at 5.4 grams which will increase when bonded to the boom.

Agree with you on both points. The original carbon boom is a nice design and easy to install.  The requirement to modify it for competition use is a bit nit-picking, can't see the original design giving the average flyer an advantage.

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Having more or less completed the various fuselage parts, apart from a few minor bits to shape and hone it into an aerodynamic masterpiece, I'm going to put things aside and have a look at the wing centre panel next.

 

However, I'm going to spend some time carefully analysing both the plan and instructions in the persuit of more anomolies before joining any balsa to balsa.

 

Look out for the next exciting episode courtesy of your favourite magazine and forum.  

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20 minutes ago, Shaun Walsh said:

That's interesting, the shear webbing in your kit has the grain running the length of the spar, the one supplied with my kit had the grain vertically aligned which is why it broke so many times in assembly.

I recall you saying something along those lines Shaun.

Do you have any tips about gluing the wing joiner bays?

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11 minutes ago, Steve Colman said:

I recall you saying something along those lines Shaun.

Do you have any tips about gluing the wing joiner bays?

I used superphatic glue to glue the joiner bays as it is thin and is easily cleaned off areas where you don't want it. Also if any gets inside the socket for the joiner you can clean it out with a small artists brush before it sets. I thought of using epoxy but if any gets inside the socket it will be a devil to clean out. The bays went together ok but I still had to sand the joiners a bit so that they would slide in without too much force. I also assembled the bays and glued them onto the spar when they were dry, trying to glue all the parts to the shear web in one go would just have broken it again. You may have more luck with the less fragile shear web. Remember to spread out the kevlar thread so it's really thin and covers a good area of the bay, I used superphatic again to keep the profile as low as possible, no glue lumps sticking out above the thread. Good luck.

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Thanks for your reply Shaun.

I will use Superphatic as you suggest; I bought a bottle especially for this build. I also agree about assembling the bays separately and adding them to the spar later.

Thanks for the tip about the kevlar thread and many thanks for your input.

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Some fitment issues and other minor little niggles.

 

The minor niggles to begin: The kit is supposed to contain a couple of templates, the first to help obtain an accurate circle when shaping the nose of the fuselage and the second as a guide to shaping the tailplane pylon. Neither were present in my kit. Not biggies and easily overcome.

 

On the plus side a template is provided to help the positioning of the wing ribs although this is not mentioned at all in the instructions. Related to the jig, both it and the main spar rib slots match perfectly however the plan does not match them exactly.

 

Which leads into a small matter of parts not fitting accurately and needing modification in some way or another............see the following photos for details.

 

 

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Edited by Steve Colman
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  • 1 year later...
On 12/05/2022 at 21:30, Steve Colman said:

A VERY IMPORTANT POINT !

 

I'm re-posting two early pics concerning the tailplane construction.

I have circled the 2 holes in the centre rib. You will notice that they are different sizes and I have shown the rib positioned one way in pic 03 and the other way in pic 04.

 

The correct way is with the larger hole towards the LE as shown in pic 04.

 

There is no mention of this in the manual until the end when it details the construction of the tailplane support plate.

 

In my opinion there should be only one way in which the rib can be inserted thus avoiding a simple mistake.

 

 

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The instructions say nothing about sanding an angle at the LE on the rudders!
I can not have bot Fin and Rudder flat together then the rudder can not move sideways?
Or is it the Fin and Stab that should be sanded and not the rudders?
Shall the carbon spar be glued to the Fin part or the rudder part? (instruction shows to the rudder part)

 

Edited by Micael Petrik
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