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Limbo Dancer Alternatives


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I had a IC powered Limbo Dancer many years ago and I fancy getting getting something similar but electric powered.

 

I see you can still buy the Limbo Dancer in both IC and Electric versions but I notice it takes 4S batteries.

 

Is there anything similar that can use 3S batteries as I have a stack of them.

 

Also, I'm not opposed to kit building but would prefer ARTF (foam or built up) if possible.

Edited by Nigel Heather
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Just now, Martin Harris - Moderator said:

Can’t you simply fit 3S batteries and use a prop/motor combination to suit the Limbo Dancer?

Would be happy to do that if possible but the specification says 4S and I read a thread on here about a build where they couldn't balance with a 3S 3000 (and my batteries are jus 3S 2200).

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel

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Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage.

 

You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast.

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I have one of these and it's terrific. The laser cutting is immaculate. Very light but very strong. Flies great on 2200 3s. Reduced throws it's a great sport flyer and with full throws it's crazy.

I was undecided between Limbo Dancer and this Fusion mk2. I went for this and I'm glad I did.

The 4Max powertrain that George recommended for it is brilliant and I love flying it. It's won more than its fair share of comps too, I'm not a comp pilot I hasten to add.

Excellent VFM and fun for the buck.

I just noticed he's out of stock but if you can find one then I'm sure you'll love it.

 

https://evolution-models.com/product/fusion-mk2/

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Hi Roger, few thoughts for you.

First of all, in my opinion, the Limbo Dancer doesn't need, or want 4s power. Going to a higher cell count will produce a model with a higher top speed, but that's not what the LD is about.
Second, from the replies to my earlier thread, the plan c/g is too far forward.
It's shown as 90-100 from the LE. This requires a lot of nose weight to get it to balance. I fly mine at 125 from LE and needs no nose weight at all.
Finally, SLEC's recommendation of a 2826 motor is based on AXI motors, who measure theirs differently from everyone else.
Equivalent in normal terms would be a 3540 or siminar.
I fly mine on a Turnigy 3542 1185Kv, turning an 11 x 5.5 prop and a 3000 Ma 3s pack. Leaves nothing to be desired in flight.
Take off is about 6 foot, followed by a vertical climb to cloudbase or eyesight limit. On full control throws, rolls are twinkle fast, and loops almost in its own length.
Notice you would rather an ARTF or a foamie. Nothing wrong with that, but the LD is really a simple build and won't take too long to get flight ready.
Also, there's cost.
The Seagull Fun Fly Early Bird linked to is a very good model, but it's £273 plus shipping. The LD kit is £82. Add another £50 or so for kitting it out, and you're still less than half that.
Worth thinking about?
Jeff

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  • 2 months later...

 I agree with Jeffrey. 
3s is all that is needed

setup:-

3s 2200

3548 900kv

13x4 apc

50a esc

pulling 360w 38 a 120 w lb 

3lb approx all up weight

5 mins  mixed flight left 44% in the batts


Just built one, and maidened  it. 
I balanced it where it said on the plan  which took 6 ounces of lead. It flew ok but wasn’t responsive to elevator, inverted needed buckets of down stick. Took half the lead out it improved,  but vertical  performance was not too brisk, took the rest of the lead out and balance moved to 120mm, next flight was responsive and virtually no down reqd on inverted flight. Vertical climb was improved without any lead. 
Next flights will be with a 13 x 8 and 13 x 6., with  maybe  a  3s 2900  to  see if  I  can get better performance, but it compares very well to a cougar with a 40 in it, which I saw flying on the same day. 
I’d like to thank Jeff for posting his limbo dancer results as they really helped out in choice of gear etc. have a read of his post on the the subject its very informative. 

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Using a 3S instead of a 4S means more amps to get the same power, so a larger ( more expensive!) ESC might be needed.   

 

The Limbo Dancer has an excellent reputation and must be just about one of the simplest kits to build.   However the electric version seems less than ideal - there is no provision for fittting the batteries from the top but only by removing the wing!   One could make a hatch to connect up with the wing fitted which would be safer.   But electric is so popular now I am surprised that SLEC haven't revised the front to include a hatch and also allow the Lipo to go further back if necessary ( the dowel for the wing bands gets in the way )     A classic model that surely needs a little rethinking for electric.

A fairly similar model is the Kanga which is somewhere here on Modelflying and it's possible that you could get a plan to download if you ask.   Otherwise designs like the Rival or Rara Avis could be just as good ( both plans on Outerzone ) but my preference would be to build the Peter Miller Swizzle Stick and extend the front slightly for electric - plans and cut parts from Sarik and several threads here about the Swizzle Stick with comments about extending the front.

Edited by kc
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The Limbo Dancer is a very quick build from the plans alone. There are few ribs and they're all the same.  However, many years ago I was provided with one to review for RCMW together with the recommended engine (MDS 38) and found it very difficult to balance (the review itself was a disaster and never published).  The one I scratch built I extended the nose as well as making more room to get the battery over the fuel tank.  It's essential to make the rear as light as possible - particularly the fuselage from the wing back. 

 

Mine eventually flew well on a ST34 but I converted it to electric on 4s.  As is mentioned above, the drawback is the need to remove the wing for battery replacement.  I placed the esc outside, under the fuselage between the undercarriage legs and made the final connection after the wings had been replaced as much for safety as anything else.

 

I think my wing survives.  Perhaps I should build another fuselage if I ever start flying again seriously (I haven't been to the field for months 😞 )

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Your right about the battery, needing to remove the wing, I have modded the plan to include a simple hatch, I also sent photos to slec and suggested they might think about including it in the future. 
The  hatch is actually too big and I can easily fit a 4s 5000, in there so it could be made a bit smaller, by about a 1/3rd.. a top hatch would be even better but would need the design of the fus changing quite a bit. 
esc fits inside ok and battery connects easily through the hatch. 
The  kit however is excellent value for money, I’m looking forward to flying mine a bit more, and trying a few different props.

 

B50607AA-6625-47E1-9038-344F9138FA67.jpeg

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That would be a great idea, but one I didn’t think of.

The floor of the model has 6mm fantastic foam glued to it. The roof of the model has a  square piece of foam glued to the balsa just in front of the wing dowel. The thickness of the foam provides a good friction fit for the lipo. The lipo is then just simply pushed into position till it hits the front firewall. On the underside of the wing I have another piece of fantastic foam, to prevent scuffs from inserting the battery etc 
The  Chris foss plate carrier is however rolls Royce and one I will be employing when I build the wot4 I have in my stash. 
 

Edited by Steven Hurd
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  • 1 month later...

Steven,

I have the SLEC Limbo Dancer kit in my big queue of models to build.

Hopefully I'll get going on it, this winter and I will definately be copying your natty, battery hatch design.

I will also take your advice and look for a suitable 3548 sized motor.

 

Do you think the model would benefit from lengthening the nose slightly or do you hit CG without extra lead in the nose?

 

Best wishes

Keith B

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Keith 

 

Sorry  for the late reply,  the 3548, and 13x 6.5 means that the model balances at approx 120mm from leading edge, I think the plan shows 95mm, so if you want it to balance at 95mm then extending the nose is an option, if you do this it opens up the chance of getting the battery hatch on the top of the model and not underneath. 
The model was not very good for me at 95mm,  as you will read on other posts on this forum. I think the consensus is that 95mm is too far forward, and between 110 and 135 is nearer the mark. But remember this is up to the flyer and not a recommendation, you may enjoy flying it where the plan indicates. 

Steve 

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On 08/06/2022 at 14:40, Alan Gorham_ said:

Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage.

 

You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast.

Or use a higher capacity 3s?

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