Nigel Heather Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 (edited) I had a IC powered Limbo Dancer many years ago and I fancy getting getting something similar but electric powered. I see you can still buy the Limbo Dancer in both IC and Electric versions but I notice it takes 4S batteries. Is there anything similar that can use 3S batteries as I have a stack of them. Also, I'm not opposed to kit building but would prefer ARTF (foam or built up) if possible. Edited June 8, 2022 by Nigel Heather Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Can’t you simply fit 3S batteries and use a prop/motor combination to suit the Limbo Dancer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heather Posted June 8, 2022 Author Share Posted June 8, 2022 Just now, Martin Harris - Moderator said: Can’t you simply fit 3S batteries and use a prop/motor combination to suit the Limbo Dancer? Would be happy to do that if possible but the specification says 4S and I read a thread on here about a build where they couldn't balance with a 3S 3000 (and my batteries are jus 3S 2200). Cheers, Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Sounds like a pair of 2200mah 3s packs would work then? (Mine used to fly on 16 1700mah NiCds!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage. You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 @Jeffrey Cottrell 2 did a very good test here ending up with 3000 3S. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/mini-jazz-34-1-2″-plan/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EarlyBird Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 Servo Shop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Copping Posted June 8, 2022 Share Posted June 8, 2022 I have one of these and it's terrific. The laser cutting is immaculate. Very light but very strong. Flies great on 2200 3s. Reduced throws it's a great sport flyer and with full throws it's crazy. I was undecided between Limbo Dancer and this Fusion mk2. I went for this and I'm glad I did. The 4Max powertrain that George recommended for it is brilliant and I love flying it. It's won more than its fair share of comps too, I'm not a comp pilot I hasten to add. Excellent VFM and fun for the buck. I just noticed he's out of stock but if you can find one then I'm sure you'll love it. https://evolution-models.com/product/fusion-mk2/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Cottrell 2 Posted June 12, 2022 Share Posted June 12, 2022 Hi Roger, few thoughts for you. First of all, in my opinion, the Limbo Dancer doesn't need, or want 4s power. Going to a higher cell count will produce a model with a higher top speed, but that's not what the LD is about. Second, from the replies to my earlier thread, the plan c/g is too far forward. It's shown as 90-100 from the LE. This requires a lot of nose weight to get it to balance. I fly mine at 125 from LE and needs no nose weight at all. Finally, SLEC's recommendation of a 2826 motor is based on AXI motors, who measure theirs differently from everyone else. Equivalent in normal terms would be a 3540 or siminar. I fly mine on a Turnigy 3542 1185Kv, turning an 11 x 5.5 prop and a 3000 Ma 3s pack. Leaves nothing to be desired in flight. Take off is about 6 foot, followed by a vertical climb to cloudbase or eyesight limit. On full control throws, rolls are twinkle fast, and loops almost in its own length. Notice you would rather an ARTF or a foamie. Nothing wrong with that, but the LD is really a simple build and won't take too long to get flight ready. Also, there's cost. The Seagull Fun Fly Early Bird linked to is a very good model, but it's £273 plus shipping. The LD kit is £82. Add another £50 or so for kitting it out, and you're still less than half that. Worth thinking about? Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted August 24, 2022 Share Posted August 24, 2022 I agree with Jeffrey. 3s is all that is needed setup:- 3s 2200 3548 900kv 13x4 apc 50a esc pulling 360w 38 a 120 w lb 3lb approx all up weight 5 mins mixed flight left 44% in the batts Just built one, and maidened it. I balanced it where it said on the plan which took 6 ounces of lead. It flew ok but wasn’t responsive to elevator, inverted needed buckets of down stick. Took half the lead out it improved, but vertical performance was not too brisk, took the rest of the lead out and balance moved to 120mm, next flight was responsive and virtually no down reqd on inverted flight. Vertical climb was improved without any lead. Next flights will be with a 13 x 8 and 13 x 6., with maybe a 3s 2900 to see if I can get better performance, but it compares very well to a cougar with a 40 in it, which I saw flying on the same day. I’d like to thank Jeff for posting his limbo dancer results as they really helped out in choice of gear etc. have a read of his post on the the subject its very informative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON CRAGG Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 As our "Club Model" next year, eleven of us are building the Bill Kits "Big Fun", might be worth a look?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 (edited) Using a 3S instead of a 4S means more amps to get the same power, so a larger ( more expensive!) ESC might be needed. The Limbo Dancer has an excellent reputation and must be just about one of the simplest kits to build. However the electric version seems less than ideal - there is no provision for fittting the batteries from the top but only by removing the wing! One could make a hatch to connect up with the wing fitted which would be safer. But electric is so popular now I am surprised that SLEC haven't revised the front to include a hatch and also allow the Lipo to go further back if necessary ( the dowel for the wing bands gets in the way ) A classic model that surely needs a little rethinking for electric. A fairly similar model is the Kanga which is somewhere here on Modelflying and it's possible that you could get a plan to download if you ask. Otherwise designs like the Rival or Rara Avis could be just as good ( both plans on Outerzone ) but my preference would be to build the Peter Miller Swizzle Stick and extend the front slightly for electric - plans and cut parts from Sarik and several threads here about the Swizzle Stick with comments about extending the front. Edited August 25, 2022 by kc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 The Limbo Dancer is a very quick build from the plans alone. There are few ribs and they're all the same. However, many years ago I was provided with one to review for RCMW together with the recommended engine (MDS 38) and found it very difficult to balance (the review itself was a disaster and never published). The one I scratch built I extended the nose as well as making more room to get the battery over the fuel tank. It's essential to make the rear as light as possible - particularly the fuselage from the wing back. Mine eventually flew well on a ST34 but I converted it to electric on 4s. As is mentioned above, the drawback is the need to remove the wing for battery replacement. I placed the esc outside, under the fuselage between the undercarriage legs and made the final connection after the wings had been replaced as much for safety as anything else. I think my wing survives. Perhaps I should build another fuselage if I ever start flying again seriously (I haven't been to the field for months 😞 ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted August 25, 2022 Share Posted August 25, 2022 Your right about the battery, needing to remove the wing, I have modded the plan to include a simple hatch, I also sent photos to slec and suggested they might think about including it in the future. The hatch is actually too big and I can easily fit a 4s 5000, in there so it could be made a bit smaller, by about a 1/3rd.. a top hatch would be even better but would need the design of the fus changing quite a bit. esc fits inside ok and battery connects easily through the hatch. The kit however is excellent value for money, I’m looking forward to flying mine a bit more, and trying a few different props. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kc Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 Steven, it would be interesting to know how you secured the lipo in your Limbo Dancer. I reckon the method shown by Chris Foss to electrify a Wot4 ( Lipo secured to a ply plate that has a 'tenon' that goes into a slot in a former then secured with a wing bolt ) would be worth considering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted August 26, 2022 Share Posted August 26, 2022 (edited) That would be a great idea, but one I didn’t think of. The floor of the model has 6mm fantastic foam glued to it. The roof of the model has a square piece of foam glued to the balsa just in front of the wing dowel. The thickness of the foam provides a good friction fit for the lipo. The lipo is then just simply pushed into position till it hits the front firewall. On the underside of the wing I have another piece of fantastic foam, to prevent scuffs from inserting the battery etc The Chris foss plate carrier is however rolls Royce and one I will be employing when I build the wot4 I have in my stash. Edited August 26, 2022 by Steven Hurd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted August 30, 2022 Share Posted August 30, 2022 Finally settled on a 13 x 6.5 apc. Great power and good duration, and on 3s 2200 cheap power packs. Well pleased with the model, but also hope that slec have a look at the fus design to assist with lipo change, possibly from the top of the fus. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith Billinge Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 Steven, I have the SLEC Limbo Dancer kit in my big queue of models to build. Hopefully I'll get going on it, this winter and I will definately be copying your natty, battery hatch design. I will also take your advice and look for a suitable 3548 sized motor. Do you think the model would benefit from lengthening the nose slightly or do you hit CG without extra lead in the nose? Best wishes Keith B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redex Posted October 15, 2022 Share Posted October 15, 2022 Hi Steve, I have the Chris Foss battery plate/tenon method fitted to my Wot4, Jitterbug and Tundra - works well, nice and secure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyGnome Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 Back to the title of the thread....... what are people's thoughts on the Balsa Cabin Touch 'n Go? I fancy a fun fly for xmas....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 Keith Sorry for the late reply, the 3548, and 13x 6.5 means that the model balances at approx 120mm from leading edge, I think the plan shows 95mm, so if you want it to balance at 95mm then extending the nose is an option, if you do this it opens up the chance of getting the battery hatch on the top of the model and not underneath. The model was not very good for me at 95mm, as you will read on other posts on this forum. I think the consensus is that 95mm is too far forward, and between 110 and 135 is nearer the mark. But remember this is up to the flyer and not a recommendation, you may enjoy flying it where the plan indicates. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Hurd Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 The Bill kits touch and go looks a good alternative, I have heard they fly very well. I would like to see a build log, and electric conversion if anybody decides to get one Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgeflyer Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 On 08/06/2022 at 14:40, Alan Gorham_ said: Surely it is perfectly possible to balance the Limbo dancer with a 3s pack and the rest of the weight made up from ballast to equal the weight of a 4s pack? You just then need to choose a suitable motor and prop combination to suit the 3s voltage. You could always retain an Rx Nimh battery pack as useful ballast. Or use a higher capacity 3s? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Gorham_ Posted October 17, 2022 Share Posted October 17, 2022 It's not easy to do that due to the bulk of the Lipo pack and the confined area where it can fit in the fuselage. It is however possible to place the Rx pack under the rudder and elevator servos. It lives there on my Limbo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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