Here is a list of all the postings Trevor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Examiners Workshop?|
I went to one last year as an instructor (I’m not an examiner). It was useful in clarifying what the examiners are looking for and I’m sure that the examiners attending would be more consistent in their assessments after attending the workshop.
It was interesting that at the beginning of the day when assessing an example A test flight, I sensed an element of competition between some of those attending - ‘I spotted something you missed’. However by the time we assessed a B test routine later on, the comments seemed rather more measured and realistic. So, I’d say a worthwhile exercise.
|Thread: Flyer's Sea Hurricane Mk 1B|
I’ve got a magnetic switch in mine (see **LINK** It is stuck to the fus side with tape and works fine through the wooden side. Make sure you position the switch behind some identifiable spot on the outside so that you don’t end up stroking the magnet all over the fus groping for the switch. In my case I hoped that I’d be able to use the bull’s eye as the magic spot but, as things have turned out, I have to wipe the bull’s backside. . .
okay, I’ve had three goes at getting rid of that smiley that’s meant to be a bracket. I give up!
Edited By Trevor on 28/03/2019 21:29:59
Edited By Trevor on 28/03/2019 21:31:09
Edited By Trevor on 28/03/2019 21:32:53
|Thread: Matt's renaissance build|
It is indeed looking good. Not sure about the heat treatment it appears to be about to undergo though
|Thread: Linkage rod to horn connection|
I've epoxied those threaded ends onto the wire in the past without problems. Only on electric models though so I can't vouch for how well they would cope in a high vibration environment.
|Thread: Cyanoacrylate safety|
I too have the same delayed reaction that others have described. I try only to use the odourless variety now, which has its limitations but at least doesn’t provoke any unpleasant symptoms.
|Thread: 2018 PSSA Mass Build - The Completed Model Thread|
Ok, at last a few flying shots, courtesy of Chris Williams. He kept saying 'lower, please', hence the partial spoileron deployment visible in a couple of the shots:
|Thread: Does your club prohibit the use of after-market receivers?|
I wonder what those seeking to ban third party receivers think about the use of open source transmitter software
As others have said, there is a pattern to the ‘radio failures’ experienced at our club - but it isn’t equipment-related!
|Thread: Seagull 80" DH Chipmunk|
Re: the tight wing joiner, I was recommended this a while back: Link
it works well with brass box/steel blade joiners, but I haven’t tried it with other materials.
|Thread: Help - Middle Phase Recomended Throws & CofG?|
If I remember right (and it’s 32 years since I built mine, so I may not!) Chris instructs you to sand the tailplane to a flat bottomed aerofoil section. The only reason I can think of for doing this is so that it sits nicely on the flat tailplane seat - particularly important if the t/p is to be rubber banded on.
I suspect that if the tailplane was sanded to a symmetrical section, the uptrim might not be needed. It’s no big deal anyway but I suppose if it really niggled you, you could mount the tailplane upside down which would arguably be more efficient!
|Thread: Malcolm Corbin Easy Street|
Not that far ahead of its time. The Galaxy Models Aerojet and Howard Metcalfe Crossfire both pre-date the Easy Street and flew well on NiCds and can motors. I still have the my 22yr old Crossfire **LINK**, now upgraded to LiPo/Brushless operation of course.
|Thread: Help - Middle Phase Recomended Throws & CofG?|
Also, all the examples I have come across needed a bit of visible up trim on the elevator.
|Thread: Hobbyking 60A esc problem|
Use the servo monitor screen on your transmitter and/or plug a servo into the throttle channel of the receiver in order to check whether the ESC is getting the instructions you think it is.
|Thread: DH84 Dragon|
The weight includes one 3s x 3300mah LiPo. The Rapide was kept light to reduce the tip stalling risk. However, it is arguably too light! In anything other than flat calm it looks very untidy being bumped around by slight turbulence. I added an Eagle Tree Guardian 3-axis stabiliser a couple of years ago and that has made flying in a breeze a lot more pleasant.
At the risk of going off topic, if anyone is fancying building one of these DH biplanes from an Ivan Pettigrew plan, I should mention that the Rapide is one of Ivan's earlier plans and he's refined his design and drawing methods a lot since then, so the Dragonfly and Express are much more straightforward to build.
In case it helps, the stats for my Rapide are here: **LINK**
It has plenty of power at 55w/lb so I'm sure you could fly at around 30 - 40w/lb but it wouldn't leave much in reserve while coping with any trim issues on a maiden flight.
Temporarily fitting 3-blade props or going to 4s batteries would be other ways of getting a power boost if prop diameter is a constraint.
7x6 props are a bit on the small side for 1100kv motors on 3s batteries. I’d be tempted to fit 8x6 or even 9x4 for the first flights.
|Thread: Installing servos in confined space|
My preferred method is to mount the servo through a rib as illustrated here:
Using hex head servo screws (supplied by ModelFixings) makes it easier.
|Thread: Daily Mail on-line article on model flying in the 50s|
Great pictures. The same can't unfortunately be said for the captions!
|Thread: Fresh petrol in a lawnmower every season?|
Ditto. We have an 18 year old ride on which has never had any additives or fuel draining treatment. It was serviced last year (after an 8 year gap!) and the mechanic said it was still in excellent condition. I have no doubt that petrol does go off as others have described but in my experience a Briggs and Stratton engine is more than capable of running on 6 or 8 month old fuel without a problem.
|Thread: Hinge Fixing?|
Epoxy them in, one half at a time. Apply the epoxy to the slot with a piece of thin piano wire, clean off the excess, push the hinge in until there’s about 3mm to go, then smear the hinge pin with oil before pushing it fully into position.
I never pin hinges and have yet to have any come loose, but then again, I fly electric so they aren’t subject to the ravages of fuel and vibration.
|Thread: Which Watt Meter|
Personally, I find a clamp meter to be much more convenient than a watt meter, partly because I get involved in checking other people’s models and the clamp meter gets around any connector incompatibility issues. Look carefully at the specs though - many of the cheaper clamp meters don’t have a suitable dc current range.
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