Here is a list of all the postings Trevor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Class 2 fun fly electric set up.|
Just shows how times have changed! When I built my Limbo Dancer back in the last millennium, it was powered by 16 sub-C NiCd batteries, weighing 2lb. I put an extra rib bay on each wing to help carry the all-up weight of 5lb. It would just about prop hang, flew for 10 minutes of mixed aerobatic flying - and got me through my B test. So, in spite of being somewhat hadicapped by the technology of the day, was still a successful model.
|Thread: Super Scale Avro Anson|
The builder of the model featured in the video is on RCGroups under the user name SHK1ECG. I'm sure he'd be delighted to help.
|Thread: Making holes through your ribs!|
Do the wires have to go through the ribs?
If the leading edge is meaty enough, you could perhaps slice a strip off the front, then cut a slot in the exposed face to sink the wires into. Re- attach the leading edge then conceal the joint with a strip of contrasting trim - which you did purely to aid visibility of course
|Thread: Capiche 50 by Malcolm Corbin|
I built one of these 16 years ago from the RCM&E plan and it is still one of my ‘go to’ models. I did document the build but it was before the age of digital photography so there aren’t as many pics as we are used to nowadays:
Edited By Trevor on 25/01/2020 19:26:17
|Thread: Capacity checker accuracy?|
My experience is similar to Keith's - battery checker says 25% left, charger then only puts in about half of the battery's nominal capacity. As others have said, it's hard to be sure how much this is the checker erring on the safe side and how much may be a discrepancy between the label on the battery and its actual usable capacity.
Even so, I do find the checker useful, as others have said, for adjusting the flight timer of a new model.
As for keeping track of which batteries have been used and which are charged, I have for years operated the simple regime of putting a rubber band round the battery when you take it off the charger. Remove the rubber band when you put the battery in the model. This system has a built-in failsafe and has so far proven to be proof against this particular fool for over 30 years!
|Thread: CAA registration take-up?|
Well, at least the CAA seem to have taken some trouble to give you a full and informative reply to your enquiry rather than just a minimally-compliant FOI response. It also seems to acknowledge that we model flyers are not a source of great concern to them, which surely is a good thing.
|Thread: HobbyKing covering|
Given the parlous state of HobbyKing’s stock levels, has anyone tried the Banggood covering film? The description on their site is uncharacteristically brief, not even explicitly stating that it is a Polyester-based film.
The reviews on Banggood’s own site seem positive but it would be nice to hear directly from anyone who has tried it.
|Thread: Dereck Woodward Bigga Bit|
Why not use balsa for the sides, with 1/32 ply doublers on the inside. By cutting strategically placed holes in the doublers, you can get the strength where you want it while still having flexibility towards the rear.
|Thread: Ripmax Phase 5e|
Yes, after a few heavy hints, I got one of these for Christmas too . The overall quality is very good but on my example the covering was badly wrinkled, especially on the ailerons and flaps.
I've used Corona servos: DS-939MG in the wings, DS-238MG in the fuselage. I bought them from RC Life. I’ve ordered a motor from HobbyKing but will wait and see whether it fits before recommending it. The Corona servos though are an excellent fit.
|Thread: The Gov't, CAA, BMFA & UAV legislation thread|
|Thread: SLEC Chipmunk build blog|
Yes, you'll be surprised at how much movement the torque rods will allow. The oleos are a good idea though, if only to reduce the 'bunny-hoppng' tendency when taxiing. On my Chipmunk (not a SLEC one), I cut a piece of foam to fit between the top of the fairing and the underside of the wing - see the last picture on this page. I've still picked up dents in the underside of the wing over the years though!
|Thread: Antonov AN124 Ruslan|
Sounds promising Simon. Did you notice it nearly ingested a blanket there!?
|Thread: wont start|
Is there a throttle lock switch somewhere which is inhibiting the throttle channel? As Denis says, the servo monitor screen is your friend!
|Thread: great service|
Reminds me of the time I ordered some wheels from Puffin Models. John Emms was quickly on the phone to check that the order was right because I’d ordered one large wheel and two small ones. As it happens they were for a motor glider so all was well but like you, I appreciated his taking the trouble to check.
|Thread: Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer|
With a bit more motor offset, the rudder trim is reduced but not quite eliminated. I didn’t notice any throttle/yaw coupling and circuits both ways are now okay. Just as well really since today’s wind direction necessitated taking off straight into a right hand circuit. In spite of the gloomy conditions, clubmate Mike managed a few photos:
Edited By Trevor on 24/11/2019 17:12:11
|Thread: Any clock experts here?|
Are you sure it hasn’t got a striking train that has been silenced? If so, you should still be able to hear the striking train running on the hour for a few seconds.
|Thread: Revolver Pusher type Autogyro trainer|
Thanks Graham. I’ll offset the motor as much as possible without it looking silly and then take it from there. I do have the facility to program a throttle to rudder mix as you describe (Jeti radio) so will bear that in mind.
Thanks for the responses. I had read about the suspension method of adjusting the thrust line but frankly didn't fancy the prospect and had enough confidence in Rich's recommended starting point to do the initial flight tests and hopefully fine tune the setup from there.
Rich, thanks for confirming that I need more motor offset rather than less. The motor is fitted with Malcolm's adjustable motor mount so I can easily move it a bit, although the motor mount is already close to the edge of the bulkhead. I didn't notice any significant change in yaw trim with power so I don't think it can be too far out.
With regard to the rudder trim, the irony is that when I first fitted the tail surfaces to the boom they were off square and I spent a fair bit of time fiddling around to square everything up. Had I not bothered, there would have been a bit of offset built into the fins from the outset! Anyway, I'll keep practising the right hand circuits.
Okay, after another couple of flights today, right hand circuits are getting quite a bit better, albeit still not as comfortable as left handers. I have though ended up with quite a bit of left rudder trim and, since the nose still tends to drop a bit in right hand turns, it probably needs a bit more left trim yet.
|Thread: How many flyable aircraft do you have ?|
36, not counting the indoor models. I try to operate two rules now:
i) One in, one out.
ii) Anything not flown in the year has its future called into question.
So far, I am doing better agains the second rule than the first: 35 out of the 36 have flown (as have all the indoor models) but there have been only two disposals against four additions.
I am getting more creative on storage solutions though!
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