Here is a list of all the postings Trevor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hinge Fixing?|
Epoxy them in, one half at a time. Apply the epoxy to the slot with a piece of thin piano wire, clean off the excess, push the hinge in until there’s about 3mm to go, then smear the hinge pin with oil before pushing it fully into position.
I never pin hinges and have yet to have any come loose, but then again, I fly electric so they aren’t subject to the ravages of fuel and vibration.
|Thread: Which Watt Meter|
Personally, I find a clamp meter to be much more convenient than a watt meter, partly because I get involved in checking other people’s models and the clamp meter gets around any connector incompatibility issues. Look carefully at the specs though - many of the cheaper clamp meters don’t have a suitable dc current range.
|Thread: Ivan Pettigrew's Mosquito 480 build.|
Good to see you back on it again, Robin. We're here cheering you along!
|Thread: Depth placement|
I think one reason why the depth perception problem is worse for novice flyers (and for more experienced pilots flying an unfamiliar model) is that the greater the level of concentration needed to fly it, the greater the tunnel vision effect. As a result less attention is available to assess the model's position relative to its surroundings.
Even so, I do agree that at distance, our depth perception is generally awful - witness the fact that when going to help retrieve a wayward model, we sometimes can't even agree which field it might be in!
|Thread: World Models Pilatus Porter P6|
If you like the look of the three bladed prop, go for it. Remember though that multi-bladed spinners can be hard to find and if the spinner profile is out of character this will spoil the scale impression more than the wrong number of blades!
|Thread: IC and Electric|
To a first approximation, an ic engine is a constant torque device so, to get more power out of it you need to get it to rev higher, generally by fitting a smaller prop.
An electric motor by contrast, is essentially a constant rpm device so, to get more power out of it you need to increase the torque, generally by loading it up with a larger prop.
As well as confusing the converting i.c. pilot when it comes to prop selection, this difference also affects what happens when the model flies at different airspeeds. As the model accelerates, the propeller 'unloads' causing the i.c. motor to rev higher and so produce more power. However, reducing the load on an electric motor simply reduces the torque demand so the power output goes down. I believe this may be behind the feeling expressed earlier of electric models feeling gutless - i.e. they seem to have limited top speed. The answer of course is often to use a higher pitch prop on the electric model to limit the power drop off as the model accelerates.
Well, it's a theory!!
|Thread: 2018 PSSA Mass Build - The Completed Model Thread|
I know this thread has really run its course but, just in case it is of interest, I've added a supplementary entry to my build diary on the use of an internal magnetic switch in the Hurricane.
|Thread: Forum members' new models: Let's see them.|
Pietenpol Sky Scout, from the Stevens Aero kit, via Micron RC. Weight, radio gear etc. almost identical to Peter's Moth a few posts back.
|Thread: The 2018 Transmitter Survey!|
Martin, your earlier post on why you chose Jeti applies, word for word, to myself, except my original Jeti Tx module was housed in an old Multiplex Profi 3030. This 3030 still does service as a trainer Tx and so I can't agree that a plastic case inevitably leads to problems when it is a few years old. It clearly depends on the plastic, but that Profi case seems as robust as ever. I'm not sure how old it is, but I bought it at a Sandown show, so it's definitely getting on a bit!
|Thread: Heated Gloves|
I tend to agree Peter, but the rule doesn’t work too well for slope soaring! Also, the best winter soaring conditions do tend to be when the wind is in the north - dry and bright, with the sun behind you. I’m a Reynauld’s sufferer so am interested to hear more about folk’s experience with heated gloves.
|Thread: workbench design?|
I'd recommend making the bench at a comfortable height to work standing, then buy a stool you can perch on if you wish. More important than the bench itself though, is where you are going to put it. Having access to both sides is a big help when building something that's pinned down. If you can't do that then make sure you use a building board on top of the bench that can be swivelled round to work on the far side of the project.
|Thread: Fixed or steerable tail wheel|
I’d vote for the steerable tailwheel any day. In my limited experience the freely castoring option is the worst of all worlds, but it may depend on other aspects of the design.
Out of interest, in the last but one re-fit of the Grosvenor House Comet, they replaced the tailskid with a tailwheel. It was at that time that I took the photos to base my model on. A year later they had gone back to the tailskid. Apparently the tailwheel they fitted was a castoring one and made the ground handling very difficult. My model has a steerable one and works fine but I can appreciate that that would have involved more modification than they felt appropriate for such an iconic aircraft.
|Thread: Out of trim|
Of course the a lot of this trimming hassle would go away if we just took the springs off the sticks
Autotrim is indeed a boon, especially for maiden flights. However, just as subtrim on transmitters led to increased ignorance on the need to set up the mechanical linkages properly, I fear that widely available autotrim will only add to the 'trim ignorance' problem we are discussing.
As for the idea of deliberately putting your model out of trim for practice, I find that test flying other people's is enough to keep my hand in!
Sadly I have to agree. We have lots of otherwise safe pilots who can’t trim out a model and, as a club instructor, I must take some responsibility for that. When I was learning (on the slopes, before buddy boxes) and reached the point where my instructor was getting bored, he simply reached across and pushed the trim levers into the corner, saying ‘get out of that!’. Somehow, I’ve never summoned up the nerve to do that to my ‘graduate students’!
|Thread: carbon fibre push rods|
Another option with a tubular pushrod is to find or trim a piece of hardwood dowel to glue into the end of the tube. Then simply drill the dowel and epoxy in place a piece of studding or a threaded pushrod for your chosen clevis size, or just plain wire if you want to form a Z bend. You can still bind the tube if you're concerned about it splitting.
|Thread: 2018 PSSA Mass Build - The Completed Model Thread|
For the record, the Red Bull Hurricane has now flown - and very well it went too. I've only got the launch pic below as evidence so far though! Conditions were quite blustery, but it cut through the air well. I was surprised to find that I could ease in full up elevator and still maintain aileron control as the model gently nodded. I repeated this (non) stall test with some spoileron (up ailerons) dialled in, with the same result. This bodes well for landing in the restricted areas available at most of our slopes.
Thanks again to Matt for the design and to everyone who has shared their build experiences here along the way.
|Thread: The Bunt|
An outside loop is much less threatening if entered inverted, and flown like a regular loop from the bottom. Once you are comfortable with this, string two or three of them together, still entering from the bottom. By now you should be confident that the model can cope and might be better able to resist the tendency to overdo the elevator when entering the manoeuvre from the top.
Entering too fast can also contribute to the problem - look at the speed of your model over the top of a regular loop and try to enter the bunt at a similar speed.
|Thread: Panther Trainer Autogyro|
Richard F: whilst The detachable cowl approach is perfectly ok with electric power, it isn’t compulsory. I took a different approach with mine:
|Thread: Top Flite P51 - 65" span|
I'd build it as per plan then, with the control surface deflected (using either the transmitter or a servo tester), push back on the surface with your hand, stopping when the servo moves or when you feel you're about to break something.
Of course, if your builder's intuition lets you down and you do break something, at least you know the servo is okay
Want the latest issue of RCM&E? Use our magazine locator link to find your nearest stockist!