Here is a list of all the postings Dai Fledermaus has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Diesel Fuel|
I live in the Cardiff/Newport area. I'm thinking of buying a PAW 0.9 RC but before I do, does anyone know where I can buy diesel fuel? The local model shop doesn't stock it because of lack of demand and I guess that will be repeated elswhere around here
Don't mind a bit of a drive to get it. Swansea or Bristol perhaps?
I'm assuming that I can't get it online unless someone can tell me otherwise.
|Thread: What happened to the Diesel Engine|
Thanks for your contributations and I understand what your saying.
I'm not a Ludite, wanting to cling on to the past. I'm building an electric trainer at the moment having weighed up all tha pros and cons of electric v IC, but you know what, it has no soul. Yes it will not distrub the neighbours and it won't drip oil inside the boot of the car, but it won't be the same somehow.
I think I'll buy a PAW while I still can and on that subject, can anyone tell me how effective the silencer is on these engines. It looks pretty small when compared the cigar tubes found on Glow Plug motors
Edited By Colin Ashman on 17/09/2012 14:14:33
As someone returning to the hobby after some 40 odd years away from it, I am amazed to see there is now mainly only one company making diesel engines - PAW.
Why has the Glow Plug engine become so prominent? It seems to me that a small diesel is a lot less hassle i.e no batteries, no starter motors, no great big 12volt batteries for the starter motors, and what could be better than the smell of diesel fuel. Now that takes me back.
|Thread: Table Top Circular Saw|
Vic, if you’re in it for the long haul, a band saw is a much more versatile and user friendly machine than a small table saw. I have an Axminster 350 band saw left over from my cabinet making days, it has a 96” long blade and would normally be considerer much too large for model making but with a 14tpi blade it cuts plywood, e.g. 1/8” a treat, with little break out. The edges need dressing with a block plane or a sheet of sand paper laid flat on the bench and they are perfectly straight.
Small bench saws have brush motors and tend to be very noisy, and you can’t cut curved sections with them and you still have the problem of break out unless you are cutting with the grain of the ply.
If a band saw isn't cutting in a straight line and you are using a fence, then the blade is shot .
|Thread: Versatility by Ian Stockdale|
Is anyone out there building, or about about to build `Versatility` (MF 271) an aerobatic/intermediate trainer by Ian Stockdale which was published recently in Radio Control Flyer?
I've noticed a number of anomalies in the plan and I would be interested to know how you got around them.
|Thread: Spitfire Low Pass|
I've just noticed the link is not working. If you search for Spitfire Low pass on You Tube you'll find it.
Sorry about the language by the way, but the reporter did have a fright.
I'm sure lots of you have seen this clip on You Tube, but for those who haven't, view at full screen and turn the volume up. It get me every time
Edited By Steve Hargreaves - Moderator on 09/07/2012 15:39:43
|Thread: How Big is Yours|
Thanks everyone, you confirmed what I already suspected, bigger isn't always better.
I was building from plans before Bleriot was a boy, or so it seems, but as a returnee to the hobby, I really would appreciate your thoughts.
I used to get a building board to fit the plans, and rest it on my mothers old kitchen table. These were generally small gliders and control line jobs, but I've just received, in the post , a plan which measures 63"x35". This would mean would mean a fairly big board which I would need to move around, I would rather build indoors with one eye on the TV than outside in my cold garage. Also if I go missing for hours on end each day in the garage, I get the evil eye from herself.
So how big is your board? Does it fit the whole plan or is it just big enough to accommodate the largest component say a wing or a fuselage side? Have you tried both options, in which case which do you find is the most convenient?
|Thread: Tracedown instead of carbon paper?|
Thanks kc, I should have realised that as a product aimed at artists it would leave faint lines.
Anyone tried this product as a means of tracing from a plan? I've found it on Amazon for £3.89. Twice the price of carbon paper I grant you but maybe less messy. It can also be used on metal as well as wood apparently
Edited By Colin Ashman on 02/07/2012 11:26:25
|Thread: Crossing over to the Dark Side|
Thanks for your help everyone. The fog is starting to clear - a bit.
I guess it will make more sense when i get the project started
This is very helpful - thank you. I’m surprised by how inexpensive some of these motors are.
I had contacted George Worley at G-Max to ask him to recommend a motor,ESC, Lipo combination, but he keeps on asking for the maximum size of prop the model will take before he can recommend a motor suitable i.e. he’s asking for the distance between the centre line of the motor and that of the front wheel . At the moment I can’t do that because the plan hasn’t arrived. I’ve given him all the other information I have including the weight and the recommended prop dia which is 9”x 5” He says “He’s not interested in what the designer recommends” because “They ( 4-Max ) always try and fit the largest dia prop as these are far more efficient than a small one revving high, they also provide more thrust” Call me dense if you like, but I just don’t get it. It’s a good way of keeping the grass short on the flying field I grant you, but is the biggest possible prop for any model always fitted? I don’t think so.
Things were much simpler with my old AM25
Hello Fellers, I really would appreciate your advice.
I outlined in a previous thread, a month or two ago, that I was returning to the hobby after a 40 year absence. At that time I cut my teeth on control line models and diesel engines but now wanting to try my hand at RC, I had planned to build a Tyro Major with an IC engine because ARTF just doesn’t do it for me. A number of you were kind enough to reply with words of encouragement.
Since then I have felt increasingly drawn to the Dark Side – it’s a pretty dark subject for me at least and that is electric flight. I can see all the advantages, but I don’t really understand it. I always though Lipo was some sort of surgical procedure for fat people.
I’ve ordered a plan for a 52” span Basic Trainer for electric power called Versatility published recently in Radio Control Model Flyer. Yes magazines other than RCM&E are available. This high wing 3 channel with trike U/C is designed to fly quite slowly to give old geezers like me a fighting chance according to Ian Stockdale the designer. With a change of wing it also turns into a 4 channel intermediate trainer with ailerons.
There is also a low wing tail dragger version with ailerons on the same plan should I ever get to that stage. For the time being if I can get the basic version off the ground and back again without bending it, I’ll be more than happy
My problem is that a motor equivalent to a 20 size glow motor is recommended and I quote from the equipment list “ i.e. one drawing around 300-400watts and 900KV drawing around 30Amps” A Fusion FS3545/05 is suggested, but as far as I can see this particular motor is rated at 1100KV. Does this matter? Also this motor seems fairly cheap at about £30 when compared to say an E flight or an OS motor at about £55 to £60. Usually, but not always, you get what you pay for I’ve found. Unfortunately the weight for the 3 channel version is not given although the low wing 4 channel job is given a target weight of 3lb 12 oz. An ESC of 40A is recommended with a 3sx330mAh lipo.
Which motor would you get if you were me, and if you have any other helpful advice I would appreciate it.
|Thread: Slope Soaring Blogs|
I did a lot of model building in the early 60's ( mainly gliders and control line ) before girls and scooters turned my head.
I''ve just retired and slope soaring realy interests me. I'm a Rhondda boy realy but now living live near Ystrad Mynach close to most of the slopes your are using. I realy would like to come along and get your advice on this particular branch of the hobby, if you can tell me where you are going to be and when.
I had considered IC or electric flying, but I'm not a clubby sort of person and joining one sort of put me off, but a bunch of fellers getting together on the beautifull slopes around here on an informal basis sound ideal.
|Thread: Born again|
Thanks for your thoughts and replys, I appreciate it.
Alan, if your Tryo Major flew well with an OS25MAX, did you realy mean that a modern equivalent would be an OS40LA?
I suppose I could best be described as a born again aeromodeler. Back in the late 50`s and early 60`s I built a number of models from kits and plans. They were mainly control line and in those days you could turn up at the local park to fly them. How things have changed!
So now, having recently retired I want to try my hand at building an R/C trainer, but my problem is that I have to start from scratch again. Which model? Which engine? Which R/C kit? Decisions, decisions. Having bought a few issues of RCM&E, I’ve decided not to go down the ARTF route and to build a trainer from a kit or plan instead. Building a plane was always part of the pleasure for me.
I like the traditional or vintage look so I recently emailed Ben Buckle to ask a few questions about one of his kits. I didn’t get a reply. I then sent a similar email to DB Sport and Scale about their Tyro Major plan, who replied the following day. No prizes then for guessing which business I'll be supporting. Also like me they are based in Wales
But to begin at the begining, I'll need a a decent building board which isn't going to shred my fingers trying to get pins into it. Wicks sell an insulating board called Celotex . It's 1200mm by 450mm by 50mm and is covered in foil. It's nice and flat and looks as if it will do the job. Has anyone tried it?
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