Here is a list of all the postings Delta Foxtrot has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit|
I managed to print out the Prussa logo test piece tonight and the tree frog is currently printing and around 60% complete.
I had the same issues as you in getting the first layers to stick, I tried the z-adjust but this did not solve my issue so I used the pritt stick like you. I suspect with a bit more experimentation this can be resolved, some forum posts suggest increasing the bed temperature to fix. There is much to learn, but that is part of the challenge.
I stuggled to get the logo off the bed, I let it cool but not fully and then got it off with a scraper. I will leave the frog to cool overnight, before trying. I suspect I have too much z-adjust as the initial layer of filament used to purge the nozzle, before printing the logo, is very flat and will clean off so far. Could be the combination of z-adjust plus pritt stick has made the first layer too sticky.
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 02/03/2017 22:32:45
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 02/03/2017 22:33:19
I ran the calibration g code late on last night. I agree with you about the difficulty in using the filament shape as a guide for z-adjustment, you need a microscope to do what the manual suggests. I just tweaked it down until I the corners to stick and then a bit more. I suspect this will need further tweaks.
I will try the Prusa logo tonight.
|I set out to run the calibrations tonight hoping it would be plain sailing, it wasn't. The z axis cal worked first time, but it failed during the x-y cal. I managed fo fix it at the expense of a sore back.|
I will crack on with the setup tomorrow and hopefully get round to the frog.
|Thread: Do you keep a log (book) ??|
I use a CAA logbook left over from my efforts in full size.
|Thread: Metal building board.|
|Yes, but I wouldn't stick it down in case diferential expansion causes it to bow. I use thin sheets of steel on top of a flat surface.
I think that mine is thinner tham 3 mm, probably 1.5 mm. This allows it to conform to a flat surface better than a thick piece.|
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 01/03/2017 16:19:01
|Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit|
|That was the problem. I turned it over and the LCD works. Self test ran ok. On with the calibration tomorrow.|
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 28/02/2017 22:59:03
|I just had a quick look and the double marked ribbon was upside down, clearly fatigue setting in leading to a mistake. I will fix and retest.|
I have the red lines uppermost on both and the double lined one to the left of the single lined connector as i look at the board with printer in its normal orientation.
I will check again in the cold light of a new day.
I finished the build tonight and tried a quick power up. The LCD powers up and tells me the printer needs calibrating and if I press the knob I get to the main menu, so far so good. When i turn the knob to move around the menus I just get more and more black squares across the screen. I think the ribbon cables must be plugged into the rambo incorrectly. I have them with the red cable at the top, like the manual shows, but the connectors are reversed vs the photos. I wonder if the red cable should be at the bottom.
|Yes I think the smoke alarm is a no brainer, but it still means you have to be on hand for potentially very long periods when printing large parts. I guess that is the nature of this beast.|
I am pleased to hear that you are happy with the printing quality and have the Boss on-side. No stopping you now, except at night time of course.
I have been wondering about potential running restrictions due to noise, and the length of time taken to print parts. I wonder if it is safe to leave the printer running unattended during long print runs, I would generally keep a close eye on heated machinery just in case, but with prints taken several hours that could be a bit of a bind.
Thanks for the information.
Good to hear that you are up and running. I do not think you should need pritt stick for PLA, I think the Z adjustment was the way to go.
I am quite enjoying the build so far. I have now completed the X,Y and Z axis assembly. Sounds like there could be some fiddly bits to come.
The i3 mk2 frame is 6.5 mm aluminium, not 3 mm.
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 26/02/2017 15:12:49
|I just checked the threads and they are fine. It is impressive how Prusa listens to the feedback and fixes problems as they are reported. I have had none of the part fit issues reported by earlier builders.|
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 26/02/2017 14:13:22
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 26/02/2017 14:13:50
Did you need to retap any holes during the z-axis assembly? I have seen comments suggesting problem getting m3 screws to screw into the frame.
|X-axis assembled. Enough for today, I am tackling this in small chunks to avoid distressing my back.|
So far I am very impressed by the quality of the on-line build instructions and the access to comments from builders and JP.
The bearings work but they are not silky smooth, I expect that they will improve with a little running in.
|Nice print Tony, looks like you are cracking on nicely.|
|Thanks for info Mal. I am new to all of this technology so not too familiar with the different versions of the Prusa printers. The major components for i3 mk 2 framework are steel bolts and aluminium frames, not acrylic.|
I will take a look at the links you posted.
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 25/02/2017 20:15:43
Do you have the i3 mark 2 or an earlier i3?
|Problem solved! I read through the comments on the Prusa build webpages and I just needed a small clearance adjustment to the motor pulley.Lesson learned!|
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