Here is a list of all the postings Delta Foxtrot has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 3D print jawdropper|
What is the block of wood for in the photos? Is this required during the printing process or is this something made to design the geometry?
|Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit|
According to the website I will have to wait until the end of Feb to take delivery of my Prusa MK2 kit, but I that is not a problem as it gives me time to learn CAD.
I tried TinkerCAD and it is indeed very simple to use and I can image that this will be very good for making a lot of simple parts.
I have also down loaded FreeCAD and so far I am quite impressed by this. It comes with tutorials and there are a lot of YT videos to help complete CAD novices, like myself, to get going. It also runs reasonably well on my ageing laptop.
Gathering some experience with CAD and spending time thinking is producing loads of ideas on what I can make with this...
It will be very useful to print out simple things like control horns if I do not have any suitable in stock, for example, without having to incur P&P charges for mail order.
I can image making lots of new fixtures for my magnetic building board.
Bespoke leading edge profile sanding tools.
the list goes on and on.
One limitation may be the time take to print stuff out. I was not aware that it can take several hours, but I guess patience is a virtue and I do not have to hang around watching it all the time.
|Trevor I bought the one linked by this in your original post i.e. the original Prusa i3 MK 3 machine. The reviews I read were very good and I prefer quality to saving a few quid so I am hoping that it will be as good as I hope it is. I see this as an oportunity to get into CAD and 3D design as well as being able to make loads of stuff, but I find myself thinking about more and more things that I could make.|
|Thread: RIZLA +|
|Looking good Gary.|
|Thread: Chris's Bella Ballerina HD|
|Regarding the leading edge sanding towards the dihedral joint...|
I am in the process of building a wing using Peter's prefered false leading edge design. I have experimented using strong double sided tape to attach and shape the leading edge before joining the wing panels. Once shaped the leading edge is carefully removed and reattached after the wing panels are joined. It worked well for me
|Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit|
Ordered mine. I have been thinking about this off and on for a while, a bit like standing on the diving platform and thinking should I / shouldn't I, so I finally took the plunge. I am sure that I will find a lot of uses for this once mastered.
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 06/01/2017 12:39:24
Thanks for the information, I will download the software and have a go.
|Does this printer come with CAD software? If not what would you recommend for a newcomer and what does it cost?|
|Thread: Wing Joining question|
|Peter,a false leading edge is the key to my little puzzle, this allows the outer panel D boxes to be completed on the jig and still lets me clamp the dihedral brace during the wing joining operation.|
As a matter of fact you are the reason that I chose to build the leading edge this way. I am modifying a druine turbulent design which has the leading edge made up from 1/4 square, not a method I prefer, I agree with your book on this. Since I built your CAP 20L design I tend to favour the false leading edge approach.
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 31/12/2016 12:19:56
Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 31/12/2016 12:20:44
|This works for me ad I am building with a false leading edge, just like on your CAP 20 L|
You are quite wrong, I do have quite a few clamps.
Seriously, thanks Peter for pointing that out, once again I missed the bleeding obvious.
That is the way I would build with a flat bottomed, or nearly so,section. I am building the outer wing panels in a jig as they are not flat bottomed.
|Looking for good ideas on the best way of joining a 3 piece wing. |
The wing uses a non symetrical aerofoil section and the two outer panels are being built on a 2 rod jig. The wings will be joined using a ply brace to give the outer panels some dihedral, the centre section will be built between the two outer panels.
The problem I have relates to glueing the brace in place. If I fully sheet the two outer panels I will not be able to clamp up the brace during the joining operation, not a good idea. I am not keen on leaving the upper D box unsheeted as the panels may deform when removed from the jig. I could partially sheet the leading edge as a compromise. I have also thought of building in a couple of bolts to allow the brace to be clamped up once glued and adjusted into position.
I am probably overthinking this, but I am interested in any good ideas on how to do this accurately
|Thread: Wing jig|
|Ah that's what causes my neck problems! The knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.|
Built my 2 rod wing jig and it works very well. I have combined this with the magnetic building blocks I bought at LMA Cosford this year to produce a very useful and flexible building system.
|Good idea. Thanks Bob!|
Thanks Bob! Sounds like the same approach I was trying to describe.
When building flat on the board I would normally have a rear wing spar and an aileron leading edge spar, but this is not really possible with a two rod jig. I guess that the sheeting on the front of the aileron would allow the aileron to be cut out without breaking the ribs.
Has anyone used this 2 rod system for building wings with ailerons? I am thinking of ailerons built with ribs rather than simple inset ailerons cut out of trailing edge stock.
I can imagine that this is possible by using upper and lower spars to form a rear spar from which to hinge the aileron. Two partial ribs could be added to form the left and right hand edges of the aileron and then aileron could be sheeted at the leading and trailing edges, top and bottom. This would then allow the ailerons to be cut out, bevelled and then sheeted at the front. Sorry for the wordy description, a picture or two would make this clearer.
I am sure that someone will have cracked this and I would be grateful for clever ideas on the best way of tackling this problem.
|Thread: RIZLA +|
I also invested in the magnetic blocks at the LMA show at Cosford last year. I was wondering how they coped when you attached the leading edge sheeting for the lower surface of the wing during your build. Is there enough force to firmly keep the spar clamped down as your raise the sheet up to the ribs for gluing, or did you pin it down.
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