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Member postings for Delta Foxtrot

Here is a list of all the postings Delta Foxtrot has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: 3D print jawdropper
12/01/2017 12:28:56
Posted by Ian Jones on 12/01/2017 11:45:43:

Presumabley these OG?

Nice thing about 3D prining them is that you can modify the size and design to your hearts content.

For example you might want to modify the springing to the type used on the Snowbird skis (Dubro and expensive) and Quanum ones Percy mentioned. I have the Snowbird skis and the springing is very effective. Another option is to add a guide rail (or 2?) underneath each ski, these help to the model on course and in the case of a steerable trike undercarriage, easily steerable.


Just had another look on Thingiverse and there is indeed a design incorporating some of the modifications I mentioned above. This model does not need the front of the skis shaping afetr printing either, not sure why the other design was printed flat. If you want a look it's here.

Edited By Ian Jones on 12/01/2017 11:46:37

Edited By Ian Jones on 12/01/2017 11:53:36

What is the block of wood for in the photos? Is this required during the printing process or is this something made to design the geometry?

Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit
12/01/2017 12:24:38

According to the website I will have to wait until the end of Feb to take delivery of my Prusa MK2 kit, but I that is not a problem as it gives me time to learn CAD.

I tried TinkerCAD and it is indeed very simple to use and I can image that this will be very good for making a lot of simple parts.

I have also down loaded FreeCAD and so far I am quite impressed by this. It comes with tutorials and there are a lot of YT videos to help complete CAD novices, like myself, to get going. It also runs reasonably well on my ageing laptop.

Gathering some experience with CAD and spending time thinking is producing loads of ideas on what I can make with this...

It will be very useful to print out simple things like control horns if I do not have any suitable in stock, for example, without having to incur P&P charges for mail order.

I can image making lots of new fixtures for my magnetic building board.

Bespoke leading edge profile sanding tools.

the list goes on and on.

One limitation may be the time take to print stuff out. I was not aware that it can take several hours, but I guess patience is a virtue and I do not have to hang around watching it all the time.

07/01/2017 22:31:03
Trevor I bought the one linked by this in your original post i.e. the original Prusa i3 MK 3 machine. The reviews I read were very good and I prefer quality to saving a few quid so I am hoping that it will be as good as I hope it is. I see this as an oportunity to get into CAD and 3D design as well as being able to make loads of stuff, but I find myself thinking about more and more things that I could make.
Thread: RIZLA +
06/01/2017 23:00:32
Looking good Gary.
Thread: Chris's Bella Ballerina HD
06/01/2017 22:09:09
Regarding the leading edge sanding towards the dihedral joint...

I am in the process of building a wing using Peter's prefered false leading edge design. I have experimented using strong double sided tape to attach and shape the leading edge before joining the wing panels. Once shaped the leading edge is carefully removed and reattached after the wing panels are joined. It worked well for me
Thread: Original Prusa i3 Mk 2 kit
06/01/2017 12:36:52

Ordered mine. I have been thinking about this off and on for a while, a bit like standing on the diving platform and thinking should I / shouldn't I, so I finally took the plunge. I am sure that I will find a lot of uses for this once mastered.



Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 06/01/2017 12:39:24

05/01/2017 21:47:34

Thanks for the information, I will download the software and have a go.
05/01/2017 20:49:48
Does this printer come with CAD software? If not what would you recommend for a newcomer and what does it cost?
Thread: Wing Joining question
31/12/2016 12:02:35
Peter,a false leading edge is the key to my little puzzle, this allows the outer panel D boxes to be completed on the jig and still lets me clamp the dihedral brace during the wing joining operation.

As a matter of fact you are the reason that I chose to build the leading edge this way. I am modifying a druine turbulent design which has the leading edge made up from 1/4 square, not a method I prefer, I agree with your book on this. Since I built your CAP 20L design I tend to favour the false leading edge approach.

Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 31/12/2016 12:19:56

Edited By Delta Foxtrot on 31/12/2016 12:20:44

30/12/2016 21:19:11
This works for me ad I am building with a false leading edge, just like on your CAP 20 L
30/12/2016 21:17:37

You are quite wrong, I do have quite a few clamps.

Seriously, thanks Peter for pointing that out, once again I missed the bleeding obvious.

30/12/2016 20:33:57

That is the way I would build with a flat bottomed, or nearly so,section. I am building the outer wing panels in a jig as they are not flat bottomed.
30/12/2016 19:05:53
Looking for good ideas on the best way of joining a 3 piece wing.

The wing uses a non symetrical aerofoil section and the two outer panels are being built on a 2 rod jig. The wings will be joined using a ply brace to give the outer panels some dihedral, the centre section will be built between the two outer panels.

The problem I have relates to glueing the brace in place. If I fully sheet the two outer panels I will not be able to clamp up the brace during the joining operation, not a good idea. I am not keen on leaving the upper D box unsheeted as the panels may deform when removed from the jig. I could partially sheet the leading edge as a compromise. I have also thought of building in a couple of bolts to allow the brace to be clamped up once glued and adjusted into position.

I am probably overthinking this, but I am interested in any good ideas on how to do this accurately
Thread: Wing jig
28/12/2016 14:08:32
Ah that's what causes my neck problems! The knowledge on this forum never ceases to amaze me.
27/12/2016 19:03:52


Built my 2 rod wing jig and it works very well. I have combined this with the magnetic building blocks I bought at LMA Cosford this year to produce a very useful and flexible building system.



19/12/2016 19:57:52
Good idea. Thanks Bob!
19/12/2016 18:07:02

Thanks Bob! Sounds like the same approach I was trying to describe.

When building flat on the board I would normally have a rear wing spar and an aileron leading edge spar, but this is not really possible with a two rod jig. I guess that the sheeting on the front of the aileron would allow the aileron to be cut out without breaking the ribs.



19/12/2016 12:48:06

Has anyone used this 2 rod system for building wings with ailerons? I am thinking of ailerons built with ribs rather than simple inset ailerons cut out of trailing edge stock.

I can imagine that this is possible by using upper and lower spars to form a rear spar from which to hinge the aileron. Two partial ribs could be added to form the left and right hand edges of the aileron and then aileron could be sheeted at the leading and trailing edges, top and bottom. This would then allow the ailerons to be cut out, bevelled and then sheeted at the front. Sorry for the wordy description, a picture or two would make this clearer.

I am sure that someone will have cracked this and I would be grateful for clever ideas on the best way of tackling this problem.


Thread: RIZLA +
23/11/2016 12:52:22

So I guess you had the top and bottom spars glued in place and were using the blocks to hold the trailing edge in position and using the weight to keep the lower spar on the plan? Sounds like a good plan.

I was wondering about attaching something to the front face of the blocks to fit snuggly on top of the spars. Scrap 1/4 balsa fitted using double sided tape or ideally an adjustable feature for different size spars, but your idea sounds nice and simple, I will give it a go.

Posted by Gary Vinten 1 on 23/11/2016 12:29:26:

Posted by Delta Foxtrot on 23/11/2016 12:21:37:


I also invested in the magnetic blocks at the LMA show at Cosford last year. I was wondering how they coped when you attached the leading edge sheeting for the lower surface of the wing during your build. Is there enough force to firmly keep the spar clamped down as your raise the sheet up to the ribs for gluing, or did you pin it down.



Hi Dave

Yes there is I put the blocks up to the trailing edge the then pushed the blocks onto the sheet and put a weight on the structure to hold it down while it dried . The best thing I have in my tool box for years . I have built the whole model with these no more clunky slec building jugs and a lot less pins


23/11/2016 12:21:37


I also invested in the magnetic blocks at the LMA show at Cosford last year. I was wondering how they coped when you attached the leading edge sheeting for the lower surface of the wing during your build. Is there enough force to firmly keep the spar clamped down as your raise the sheet up to the ribs for gluing, or did you pin it down.



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