Member postings for Ace

Sorry don't have a manual, however you may already be aware that Irvine sold out to OS and they then changed some components (still called Irvine with a red case) and these are not interchangeable As a rough guide - Black carb Irvine, Ally carb OS version.

Longshot, but have you tried moving further away 3-5m? which worked with my DX 9 when I experienced a binding issue with a Lemon RX.

My "Post"man

Very nice Simon I do like a nice twin.

Like others I to have a half cut plan that needs finishing -

Ron that is very, very tasty and all in a couple of weeks.

Will the electrons make a laser noise as they rush about

No wonder you are as warm as toast

On my south facing window I had a mesh roller blind to take the sting out of the light on bright days.

"Brilliant Bart"

Followed each and every step and really-really appreciate you taking the time to make this series of very detailed videos, a masterclass.

Just need the flying finally

63" Tempest

Like Ron I would convert to IC.

Big fan of Richards kits (109, LA7, BF110) Will groveling get me a discount

What e need is Manny to come up with some personal injury insurance claim numbers for IC and Elec? Ok they won't give the whole picture as % of users won't be known. I seem to remember an editorial in the BMFA mag on just this subject.

Lets be honest either is seriously going to ruin your day. If a nick neither will stall so repeated slashes. On a major strike the fist blade will either have stalled embedded, removed your finger or broken a blade with the second one also impacting. Possibly more likely with the flimsier elec props. If the resistance is sufficient to stall either prop the IC will not restart. However electric motors deliver constant torque so will restart immediately resistance is lowered or until it or the esc burns out. I believe the potential for repeated strikes is greater for this reason with electric.

Another question may be when/why fingers or other parts of your Anatomy come into contact with props. Any prop when running is obvious and usually avoided although an IC will bring fingers closer to adjust needles or remove glow sticks which I suspect when most IC contact occurs.. An IC won't (in most instances) start unexpectedly. However for electric once armed and there are no signs it is other than a few esc beeps. It frightens the living daylights out of me when I see people reaching through props to install a battery and in particularly with it resting in their lap or returning/leaving a plane in the pits still armed and unrestrained. As a rule you don't see running IC engines left that way. Don't get me wrong I like and fly both.

Arrr very true, Richard is a really nice bloke ----- but a Tempest So 1/2 a story has become 3/4, I can't recall ever seeing one?

Oooooo like it -

Artf -VQ Hurricane 63", Laser 80, flaps & electric retracts. 9lbs (8 1/2 + 1/2 lead) Fly's great although needs a decent scale take-off run but lands quite gently. Well not ripped the retracts/oleo's out yet.

Edited By Ace on 15/06/2020 09:54:24

Out of curiosity I did a test for the weight penalty of varnishing the bare wood interior over and above the usual engine/tank bay, 4 sides x 2g = 8g. However as it was water based this relaxed the fibers and bowed the sheet slightly, returning to flat once dried. The test sheet was very thin 1/32" balsa and of course was completely unrestrained and not part of a ridged structure. I doubt the 1/8" sheet in a ridged wot4 fuz would react the same! It also took the film well so may also consider running a brush width under where all the intended film joins will be on the whole airframe. Of course 8g behind the c o g will mean 32g up front but then the laser 100 is over and above normal so useful wt is always better than lead. Will see how I feel when I get to the decision point of the build.

Varnish (ed) was a spelling mistake not a water smudge

Water test 

Edited By Ace on 06/06/2020 10:48:54

Thanks Robin for those who were wondering what the difference was

For me - Better because it's "free"   Our 100% also has a cross link additive which enhances its's ability to stick like snot to a horse hair blanket. If it wasn't free I would also use cheap poundland silicone.

Edited By Ace on 06/06/2020 01:11:00

Vent concern was more to do with sucking float tip and prop spray while on the surface contaminating the fuel leading to an unreliable engine. That said the amounts in a 9/11 oz tank will be tiny. Laser it is.

Agree cheap silicone would do fine but "free" RTV is better

I suspect miniaturization and complexity probably leaves our equipment more vulnerable. However I will only be in fresh water, saltwater would be far more serious. Will make every effort to keep any water out and try without an electrical cover. After all if it gets a dunking its already down. I can always take a latex glove with me.

Cheers Frank, Alan, John.

Laser tank vent up high and tucked in behind spinner sounds like a proven workable solution. May look at a latex glove which will accommodate the 2.4 whisker aerials only when floats on as it may overheat or attract condensation during prolonged hack duty.

Not started yet, thought I would ask questions first as no Ullswater . Will be using waterproof Aliphatic and PVA. Wing is foam, twin servo wells lined and varnished with RTV lead seal. Clearcoat in short supply so being saved for small seam seals, PV67 my choice for larger area fuelproofing. Capsized float angle is something I am pretty sure I will experience.

Good info on rudder authority as I am a big believer in KISS which is why its good to ask questions first

Cheers John, the WMWF site is a wealth of information and was a useful along with some US sites.

Edited By Ace on 05/06/2020 12:51:53

I need a new hack and have always fancied flying off (fresh) water so am combining both with a Wot4 Mk3 kit fitted with airbrakes. Powered by either a Laser 100 or ASP 91 with interchangable landing gear / floats. Covering will be heatshrink.

Tail closed loop, elevator and throttle sealed with Vaseline. Fuel lines and wing seat with RTV. Waterproof ailerons / float rudder servos.

Although a reasonable pilot I am a water novice so the odd bath is likely and no matter how well I think it's sealed I expect some water to find it's way in.

1) So is spraying the inside with water based varnish to prevent any water ingress soaking into the balsa worthwhile before sealing the fuz up? Or would that then prevent any ingress from evaporating? 2) Would it be prudent to also spray the whole outside before covering? Any covering gaps/damage or seam lifts won't then allow in water? 3) My other Laser engines have an open forward vent which would probably suck in water to the fuel. Would the ASP be a better choice although I would prefer the laser if practical?

Thanks Ace

I have the 63" Hurricane and although the plastic has been fuel proof for 10% so far, the colour has faded badly to an unattractive light brown if you know what I mean

Fascinating to watch how you are enhancing an already excellent kit (I also have one) with creative flair

Regarding the primer on the film, did you use one for plastic or std acrylic, and did I miss the make of top coat colour you are using? - thanks.